New Veethree lido tachometer not working

Marc Rainaldo

Active Member
Apr 18, 2019
260
Netherlands
Boat Info
Sea Ray 500 DA 1994
Engines
Detroit diesel 6v92
Hello all, need some help with new gauge.
I changed all the old gauges for the Lido veethree gauges.
All gauges working except the tachogauge.
It’s model nr 63524FE that should be wired to the alternator.
The gauges work on 12v
My system is 24v, therefore I use a reducer from Victron.
With my ohm gauge I read different values by throttle.

any thoughts what could be the problem?
500DA 1994
06ECAB07-6B1E-400A-9E35-626A3ABEB33E.jpeg
 
Hello all, need some help with new gauge.
I changed all the old gauges for the Lido veethree gauges.
All gauges working except the tachogauge.
It’s model nr 63524FE that should be wired to the alternator.
The gauges work on 12v
My system is 24v, therefore I use a reducer from Victron.
With my ohm gauge I read different values by throttle.

any thoughts what could be the problem?
500DA 1994
View attachment 102417

Can you post the tach wiring diagram? Or, a link to the gauge install instructions?
 
Can you post the tach wiring diagram? Or, a link to the gauge install instructions?

i checked the alternator and there is no R , only a connector with 2 wires (red and white) and also a big red cable on a separate connector.
It’s a 6v92 Detroit engine
D15738E2-B106-43BD-9230-6DC05A517A03.jpeg
 
... It’s a 6v92 Detroit engine ...

I also have 6v92's, my alternators have an internal regulator and no output suitable for a tach signal. The tach's you have look like they would take an Aetna engineering tach sender 8901/2. What was driving the original tach's? Usually there is a take off on the back side of the blower. If there is a sending unit there that signal should most likely work.
 
I also have 6v92's, my alternators have an internal regulator and no output suitable for a tach signal. The tach's you have look like they would take an Aetna engineering tach sender 8901/2. What was driving the original tach's? Usually there is a take off on the back side of the blower. If there is a sending unit there that signal should most likely work.
Yes you are correct. Apparently I have the delcoremy 12SI no output for tachometer.
I measured the wires and they start some above 4V and increase when throttle. Only thing it’s AC voltage.
Perhaps the new gauge need DC voltage?

Input signal: Detroit Diesel 6v92 with separate tachometer drive (2 wires start from around 5V AC at idle)

Tachometer connection:
Ignition: + voltage 12,7 DC
Ground: 2 wires. 1 from DC ignition and 1 from tachometer drive
Send: 1 wire from the tachometer drive

I measured everything as above and send wire from tachometer drive increase when throttle up.
Hour meter is active when ignition power is on an the pointer goes to zero.
Unfortunately the pointer stays on zero.

Also disconnected the Gnd ignition but then pointer won’t go to zero, hourmeter is not active and pointer won’t move when throttle up.
 
Last edited:
Yes you are correct. Apparently I have the delcoremy 12SI no output for tachometer.
I measured the wires and they start some above 4V and increase when throttle. Only thing it’s AC voltage.
Perhaps the new gauge need DC voltage?

Input signal: Detroit Diesel 6v92 with separate tachometer drive (2 wires start from around 5V AC at idle)

Tachometer connection:
Ignition: + voltage 12,7 DC
Ground: 2 wires. 1 from DC ignition and 1 from tachometer drive
Send: 1 wire from the tachometer drive

I measured everything as above and send wire from tachometer drive increase when throttle up.
Hour meter is active when ignition power is on an the pointer goes to zero.
Unfortunately the pointer stays on zero.

Also disconnected the Gnd ignition but then pointer won’t go to zero, hourmeter is not active and pointer won’t move when throttle up.

Yes those senders don't play well with normal tach's, only the analog ones of that era. You can make a very simple conditioning circuit that plugs inline with the tach signal wire and gnd. Take a look at this thread, specifically post #30 on.

http://clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/actisense-emu-1-engine-converter-analog-to-digital.101609/

You can change the zener value to accommodate the tach requirements.

EDIT: Also not that the sender is 8 pulses per revolution, but the tach take off is 2 revolutions of the engine to one rev of the sender. So 4 pulses per revolution output.
 
Last edited:
Yes those senders don't play well with normal tach's, only the analog ones of that era. You can make a very simple conditioning circuit that plugs inline with the tach signal wire and gnd. Take a look at this thread, specifically post #30 on.

http://clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/actisense-emu-1-engine-converter-analog-to-digital.101609/

You can change the zener value to accommodate the tach requirements.

EDIT: Also not that the sender is 8 pulses per revolution, but the tach take off is 2 revolutions of the engine to one rev of the sender. So 4 pulses per revolution output.

thanks for the information but it’s hard for me to understand.

I don’t know what a zener is.
Can you explain me a bit in a way for someone that can’t read electric diagrams? Srry for that.
What parts I need and where do I place that components between what wires?

Tachometer drive wires:
Grey wire (S)
Brown wire (Gnd)

Ignition wires
Purple (ignition)
Black (Gnd)

The veethree tachometer is adjustable for calibration
 
thanks for the information but it’s hard for me to understand.

I don’t know what a zener is.
Can you explain me a bit in a way for someone that can’t read electric diagrams? Srry for that.
What parts I need and where do I place that components between what wires?

Tachometer drive wires:
Grey wire (S)
Brown wire (Gnd)

Ignition wires
Purple (ignition)
Black (Gnd)

The veethree tachometer is adjustable for calibration

How I understand i need a zener diode from 16v and 2 resistors 100ohm en 470ohm?
But where to connect exactly?
 
Can you shrink slightly or attach as pdf?
thanks for the information but it’s hard for me to understand.

I don’t know what a zener is.
Can you explain me a bit in a way for someone that can’t read electric diagrams? Srry for that.
What parts I need and where do I place that components between what wires?

Tachometer drive wires:
Grey wire (S)
Brown wire (Gnd)

Ignition wires
Purple (ignition)
Black (Gnd)

The veethree tachometer is adjustable for calibration

Bump
 
How I understand i need a zener diode from 16v and 2 resistors 100ohm en 470ohm?
But where to connect exactly?

So if you make the circuit the way it's depicted in the diagram I referenced, the signal in is from the sender and the out, EMU-1 reference, is to the tach in on your tach. The triangle at the bottom of the zener diode is to ground. I ended up using a 12v zener diode which worked out great.

This is only one possible solution and what worked for me for what I was trying to do, it MAY work for you as well. But if you can please post what @techmitch is asking for, there may be an easier solution for you to try without having to make a circuit to condition the single with. Have you tried just using the tach signal to the tach just the way it is? Alternator signals are not that conditioned and the tach might read your sender just fine.
 
Just arrived home and checked the old gauge.
Removed then couple months ago and forgot what was on the back side.

On the back attached at the ignition connector there is a wire wound resistor attached: DALE RS-5 100 ohm 1% M9116.

I hoped that this was the solution but after research it’s a resistor for making 24v-12v

E2FCEF88-1B08-47DB-B311-EC1CDDA88429.jpeg
46F552B4-81AD-45C8-A8AB-14CFCC6E4AC4.jpeg
3F228523-8B86-48C2-95F3-DBB79C64FCAF.jpeg
 
Last edited:
So if you make the circuit the way it's depicted in the diagram I referenced, the signal in is from the sender and the out, EMU-1 reference, is to the tach in on your tach. The triangle at the bottom of the zener diode is to ground. I ended up using a 12v zener diode which worked out great.

This is only one possible solution and what worked for me for what I was trying to do, it MAY work for you as well. But if you can please post what @techmitch is asking for, there may be an easier solution for you to try without having to make a circuit to condition the single with. Have you tried just using the tach signal to the tach just the way it is? Alternator signals are not that conditioned and the tach might read your sender just fine.

like this you mean?
And then for the zener diode specs:
Zener diode,
Voltage: 12 Volt,
Vermogen: 1.3 Watt.
D5446665-D971-434D-AFC5-B5266D39C221.jpeg
 

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