New Trailer Recommendations

H

HornetDriver

New Member
Feb 1, 2013
19
Lady's Island
Boat Info
2007 220 Select
Engines
350MAG
Looks like I'm going to be in the market for a new trailer...



I knew the factory trailer was rusting pretty bad but I started to pick away at it today after detailing my 220 and saw just how bad it is getting. I'm pretty nervous about towing the boat since 1/4 of the steel is missing and I know the rest is rusting away. I just started to look around but any recommendations? Galvanized vs. aluminum? Brand? Big question is where to look for a trailer (perhaps used)? Any help would be appreciated.
 
I had a load rite aluminum with my last boat and it held up very well being used every weekend in salt water. It was 5 years old when I got the boat but the boat had been kept in the water by the previously owner so it saw little use. I used it weekly for 6 years with no problems other than electrical. I would rinse it after the boat came out on sundays but by then it had gotten dumked 2 times and sat all day at the ramp. When I got a little rust on the galvanized parts I would wire brush them and repaint wi galvanizing paint. The aluminum parts were 100% fine.
 
I take it this trailer was used in salt water? Although painted trailers aren't recommended for salt water use, they can typically last longer than 5 or 6 years, but it does take religious flushing and PM.

A galvanized or aluminum trailer would both do very well for you. There's numerous brands and you'll likely hear others respond with what they like. The best advice I can give you is to buy from someone local, just in case you do have a problem.

YES, I would be VERY wary about trailering the way it is. Just from the picture, it appears that a good deal more than 1/4 of the tongue is compromised. And who knows what other areas. IF this was the only area that was bad, there are ways around it to be able to tow it to a yard. But I'm not comfortable giving any type of recommendation via a forum with only a few pictures to look at and not checking it out myself. You'll want to get the boat towed to the yard on a flatbed trailer and support the tongue area with some cribbing for the trip. Don't try and tow it yourself just to save a few bucks - the consequences could be very, very bad. Very bad. On the plus side, consider yourself lucky that you found this out before it was a problem.
 
I used this trailer in salt water but I still can't believe how fast it rotted away. The last two summers I have been deployed and although the boat was getting used by my family, it was stored high and dry and the trailer sat in storeage. Just when I get my boat ready to hit the water...I can't get it to the water!

A quick look on craigslist and I found a couple trailers that might work. I'd prefer to find used if possible to help out the wallet. I was looking at some Road King trailers which are really nice but out of my price range. Used seems to save me a couple grand.

http://tampa.craigslist.org/hdo/bod/3745452595.html

http://tampa.craigslist.org/hil/bod/3762065392.html

Any thoughts?
 
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Ameritrail is close to you they build a darn good trailer. If you are looking to save a few bucks the 2nd ad looks good.
 
I have a Shoreland'r galvanized roller (2001) and the metal looks brand new - I am not in salt but I would think that the galv would hold up well.

LK
 
I would not tow with that tube rotted through, it won't handle the tongue weight anymore. I have a galvanized Load Rite with disc brakes, and I launch in salt, but flush out all the tubes and the wheels and brake parts every time I pull the boat. Good luck with your search.
 
Looks like the second trailer has been sold. I still might look at the first link but I'm concerned about overall capacity. I plan to swap my 14 inch wheels and tires over since the trailer I might look at has 13 inch wheels. If this trailer has 3,500lb axels with the addition of my wheels and tires, will it carry a 220 select with no issues?
 
It might work. Ask for a model number and call the manufacturer. You don't want to guess on this. BUT, that trailer only has brakes on one axle. Not good. In some states, it's even required by law to have brakes on all axles.

Ask the seller for a measurement from the bow roller to the end of the bunks. Measure your boat and make sure it will fit. It looks like the bunks stick out quite far behind the axles and the axles can't be adjusted further back. Compare that measurement with your trailer, as well. Otherwise you could end up with a dangerous situation with too little tongue weight.
 
Well after getting some measurements from the seller, safe to say my boat won't fit on that trailer...the search continues. Thanks again for all the help!
 
Probably for the best, anyways. With only one set of brakes you'd definitely notice a difference in how well it stops compared to the original (which "should" have had tandem brakes). If your original didn't, then now is a good time to make sure you get tandem brakes. Good luck in your search.
 
HornetDriver said:
Looks like I'm going to be in the market for a new trailer...



I knew the factory trailer was rusting pretty bad but I started to pick away at it today after detailing my 220 and saw just how bad it is getting. I'm pretty nervous about towing the boat since 1/4 of the steel is missing and I know the rest is rusting away. I just started to look around but any recommendations? Galvanized vs. aluminum? Brand? Big question is where to look for a trailer (perhaps used)? Any help would be appreciated.
Click to expand...
Impossible to tell from just this one picture but this area probably held water and rusted faster as a result. Depending on the condition of the REST of the trailer, this area could be repaired easily, meaning complete replacement of that tube forward, and reinforcement at the "Y". Just a thought...
 
I concur with Dennis, that trailer is unsafe on the road. It can only be moved on a flatbed with wooden blocking under the frame aft of the Y and the frame secured to the bed. Since the damage is between the Y and the winch post, you should also make sure the bow of the boat is secured to the bed as well.


The shortcoming of painted trailers with tube frames is that the outside gets painted and it is nearly impossible to paint in the tubes. This looks to me like it has rusted from the inside out. That makes it visible and I would venture to say the entire structure is shot. If you are going to go with steel, galvanizing is the only solution that makes sense in salt water. In our pre- Sea Ray days we had Calkins and Shorelandr. Calkins has since gone out of business. Sadly they were a case of a company that would not compromise standards to lower price. The last trailer we had for six years was a Shorelandr. It was used for salt water launchings and I was very lax about rinsing it. In any event, about the only thing I had to do to it was keep good grease in the bearings and replace the lights with LEDs. When we sold it and the boat the trailer looked like a six year old trailer, but was not distressed.

If you go with aluminum, choose a name brand/builder with known reputation. Aluminum trailers need to be built to different rules than steel. If these rules are not adhered to they start cracking. Builders with experience that also have a history of honoring warranty claims tend to build aluminum trailers with very few serious warranty issues.

What ever you choose, get something with LED lights. They will more than pay for themselves over a short time.

Henry
 
markrinker said:
Impossible to tell from just this one picture but this area probably held water and rusted faster as a result. Depending on the condition of the REST of the trailer, this area could be repaired easily, meaning complete replacement of that tube forward, and reinforcement at the "Y". Just a thought...
Click to expand...

I had the exact same problem with a "fresh water" vanguard trailer that came with our Pachanga - both bought new.
After 5 years the same problem showed up. Turns out birds had built a nest deep in the tube and it held water.
The rest of the steel looked good from inspection so I cut the bad tube out and welded in a new tongue.
15 years later it was still solid when I sold it.
 
Looks like I found a really nice aluminum EZLoader for sale. New hardware, brakes, actuator and bearings built for a 22-24 ft boat with a GVWR of 6600 lbs. Doesn't have brakes on both axels but the brackets are there so I plan to add them once I get the trailer. The only question is the condition of the tires but I have newer Goodyears on my trailer now that I'll swap out. My father is going to take a look at it within the next couple days since it is down in FL, hopefully it all works out.
 
HornetDriver said:
Looks like I found a really nice aluminum EZLoader for sale. New hardware, brakes, actuator and bearings built for a 22-24 ft boat with a GVWR of 6600 lbs. Doesn't have brakes on both axels but the brackets are there so I plan to add them once I get the trailer. The only question is the condition of the tires but I have newer Goodyears on my trailer now that I'll swap out. My father is going to take a look at it within the next couple days since it is down in FL, hopefully it all works out.
Click to expand...


How did you make out on this?

LK
 
Picked up the EZLoader in Tampa and brought it back up to SC. It took quite a bit of work to set the trailer up. Luckily the ramp wasn't busy so the boat floated while my father and I did the work. I picked up some hardware to add an additional pair of bunks (used a pair off the old trailer) and set the geometry up to match what the boat use to sit on. I also swapped out tongue jacks and put my nicer wheels and tires on. Got out the other day and the trailer drives really nice, just in time for Memorial Day weekend!

"Like a glove"
 
Any recommendations on what to do with the old trailer? I was thinking a metal scrap yard to get at least something for it and pull the wheels/tires off and sell those. I'm not even sure a place would want a rusted painted steel trailer.
 
Scrap yard is 'bout it. You won't get much, but they'll take it.

New trailer looks nice and looks like you set it up well.
 
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