New trailer comments - pics

Looks nice and I'm sure it'll work fine. The one concern I would have is the lack of support in the transom. That was my big issue with all the aluminum trailers I found when I was looking at boats without a trailer before we bought our new one. FWIW, my trailer has 6 bunks supporting the stern.

Have you looked into getting one made by the same place that made dpvandys?
 
I don't think fewer bunks creates a support issue. Have you all seen how they store these big and bigger cruisers all the time? They balance them on tiny blocks in 3 small spots. I have to imagine the bunks provide plenty of support. I think more bunks do make centering it easier. At least that's what my dealer told me today when asked about this trailer.
 
I had a Road Runner trailer under a 250 Dancer, it was a really stout trailer.
 
Keokie,
I've got a n Owens Slide On under a 290 Dancer, probably the best and most solid trailer I have ever owned.
 
Cincy Aquaholic said:
I don't think fewer bunks creates a support issue. Have you all seen how they store these big and bigger cruisers all the time? They balance them on tiny blocks in 3 small spots. I have to imagine the bunks provide plenty of support. I think more bunks do make centering it easier. At least that's what my dealer told me today when asked about this trailer.
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Bill,

As for the bunks, I don't think it is a structural issue. However, the extra bunks are great for being able to perfectly align the boat on the trailer. I never have to re-splash my boat, and center it on the trailer!

I specifically deleted the PVC guides. Your boat is currently 12 inches wider than the max allowed by all 50 states; adding the poles just made you at least 6" wider (may not sound like much, but most states will cut you some slack until you reach 10' wide).

Finally, on electric brakes, you probably are fine if you stay out of the salt water. Here in Florida, I don't see electric brakes on boat trailers (and we have a lot of boat trailers).

I have attached a picture of my rig.

Good Luck on your never ending hunt!!!!
 

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Cincy Aquaholic said:
I don't think fewer bunks creates a support issue. Have you all seen how they store these big and bigger cruisers all the time? They balance them on tiny blocks in 3 small spots. I have to imagine the bunks provide plenty of support. I think more bunks do make centering it easier. At least that's what my dealer told me today when asked about this trailer.
Click to expand...

I agree that two bunks are fine - also agree that it can't hurt to have more. But blocking a boat is done on the keel (strongest part of the boat) and the two aft chines (awful darn close to the keel in strength). Not a fair comparison. Ideally, the bunks will sit below the stringers.
 
pete5016 said:
Bill,


I specifically deleted the PVC guides. Your boat is currently 12 inches wider than the max allowed by all 50 states; adding the poles just made you at least 6" wider (may not sound like much, but most states will cut you some slack until you reach 10' wide).
Click to expand...

That was exactly my problem. I got guides that come off with two bolts.

It made it look even more overwide than it really is.
 
I grabbed some pics today.

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It is a Vanguard made for the 280DA which is on the tag. They know where everything is for the Sea Ray boats for lining up the bunks.
 
Just have a question for everyone, why go the bunk trailer and not a roller trailer? I know the price is a lot less, but just curious if anything else. Any of you that have painted bottoms have issues painting on a bunk trailer? I figured with a roller you could roll the boat back a few to paint what you missed, with a bunk that would be harder.
I am in the process for looking for a trailer and not sure which route to go, roller or bunk, thats why i ask.
 
OK, a quick hi-jack, then back to the original post:smt001:

Bunk: Less up front and maintenance costs. Supports hull bottom better. Usually loads/unloads easier (centers the boat easier). Makes touching up bottom paint harder - have to lift the boat with a jack. Although, if you're doing a lot of trailering, it won't matter anyways as it's going to rub off.

Roller: Preferred if using a very shallow ramp. Easier to touch-up paint.
 
Not sure the exact weight. Load capacity of 12,600 and GVWR of 15,000. 5,000lb axles with disc brakes on all 3 axles, electric over hydraulic, LED lights and painted to match my wifes truck.:thumbsup:
 
I ended up going with a tin trailer... I just liked it better and wanted one for a change.


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Cincy Aquaholic said:
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I know I'm late to the game on this, but the pic above is of the exact (or as close as I can tell from this pic) same trailer as I got for my '06 280. My only real issue with it so far is the winch mast...too darn tall! It was only about 6 inches below the anchor chute, and that was without the anchor in! I had my SR dealer chop off the top of the mast that wasn't being used and I have more room now, but I still worry about the anchor/chute when I launch/recover due to the fact the winch and bow eye are so high on the boat. Also, when the dealer put the mast back on, they shifted it back several inches on the trailer (by mistake :smt021) so now it sways a bit...something I need to fix soon. I'd have them do it, but they are 3.5 hours away, and the hiway is crappy.

The bunks (same as in the pic) seem spaced perfect, they are set just inside the chines but just outside the thru-hulls for the gen and a/c on my boat.

Oh yeah, I really don't like surge brakes, which mine has. I thought it was supposed to come as EoH, but shame on me for not confirming before purchasing. I'm going to do what someone else here mentioned (sorry, can't remember who) and just wait and see if I can get used to the surge, otherwise I'll mod the trailer for EoH with the Carlisle unit. I just don't know what pressure the system is.:huh:

$0.02

Mc
 
Lazy Daze said:
Hmmm. Well, there is one fallacy to what they told you. If the thickness of the aluminum is the same as that of a 7" model, it's actually going to allow the vertical portion to come under more stress. Just like it's easier to bend/break a 2' long stick than it is one of the same thickness, but only 1' long.

Again, this is if there are any inward stresses being applied.
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I know this is an older post - and am researching trailers - but wanted to correct this statement.
In structural design, we use the cross-members as lateral reinforcement - preferably must extend 1/2-3/4 depth which resists the lateral stresses you are speaking of. The deeper cross section will carry the load easier, but more specifically it is stiffer and will deflect far less. I could compute the actual deflection - but then I'd have to run to work and get my code book.
So, both posters are correct - a deeper section is subjec to lateral buckling, but is exponentially stiffer in deflection - but sufficiently sized cross members will aid in reducing that concern.
 
My 1990 270/290 came on a real nice Loadmaster (Ohio) trailer. It's a 2002 and still like new! It's all steel with electric brakes...they work great! I always had surge brakes and spent $$$ on them every couple years. My trailer was also made for the boat as far as balance (tongue weight) and bunk placement. It is rated for 12,000lbs total (two 6,000lb leaf sprung axles), I learned a lot talking to them on the phone. Very professional company, Mike.

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