New trailer comments - pics

[Cincy Aquaholic]

Many of you have seen my posts regarding a new trailer for my 290 and have been helpful with suggestions. So far have come up empty going used or renting. Time to bite the bullet. Thought I'd post pics and specs on what I'm zeroing in on for some last minute feedback.

Its a 2010 Loadrite triaxle aluminum rated to carry 12500. Torsion axles, surge disc on all axles. E rated tires. Price is right. More than Nextrail and Venture for sure but not obscenely. My only modification may be putting electric over hydraulic brakes on it.

Its relatively local too (northern ohio) so no shipping. I can meet them half way.

 

[douglee25]

It's almost identical to my trailer. I have surge disc brakes on all three axles and it stops beautifully. I love mine. Personally I would try pulling the boat without upgrading to electric over hydraulic before you deem it necessary.

Doug

 

[gerryb]

Looks nice. Couple of concerns - check the distance between the bottom of the boat up to any water inlets, thruhulls or scoops as you don't want them sitting on the bunks. Also, my trailers has three bunks on each side - 6 total. I would be somewhat concerned about all the weight sitting on only one bunk to each side. Should be OK for short periods of time but may put quite a bit of stress on that section of fiberglass is extended too long. I have surge brakes and they seem to do the job. I wouldn't jump into that project personally unless I saw a problem.
What kind of pricing you were able to get on that unit?

 

[Cincy Aquaholic]

It's almost identical to my trailer. I have surge disc brakes on all three axles and it stops beautifully. I love mine. Personally I would try pulling the boat without upgrading to electric over hydraulic before you deem it necessary.

Doug

Thanks. That's what I was thinking of doing. I'm sure some will say that when you find out it doesn't stop well its too late but I've always felt comfortable with surge brakes on our roads.

 

[Lazy Daze]

Aesthetically, it's a very nice looking trailer. Just double check that the bunk cut-outs are in the right place so your through-hulls (like A/C) don't come to rest on a bunk. Depending on where the through-hulls are, it may not even be an issue when the bunks are properly adjusted.

One question I would have is the attachment points of the crossmembers. Maybe I'm over analyzing it, so please, anyone, feel free to comment. But, the crossmembers seem to attach only in the middle of the I-beam. Meaning the load is being carried by only a small portion of the I-beam.

Now, is the entire load/stress vertical? In that case, maybe it doesn't matter as much. I'm just wondering if some of the stress put on that section isn't actually of the type that is pulling the beam towards the center of the trailer.

Other aluminums seem to spread the load out to the top and bottom.:huh:

On the other hand, attaching that way does make for a nice looking trailer.

 

[Cincy Aquaholic]

This may or may not be the reason for the cross member thru bolting but I was told that this trailer has a 9 inch I-beam versus a 7 inch on the cheaper models that were rated roughly the same. Thus, it its exponetially more stiff.

 

[Lazy Daze]

This may or may not be the reason for the cross member thru bolting but I was told that this trailer has a 9 inch I-beam versus a 7 inch on the cheaper models that were rated roughly the same. Thus, it its exponetially more stiff.

Hmmm. Well, there is one fallacy to what they told you. If the thickness of the aluminum is the same as that of a 7" model, it's actually going to allow the vertical portion to come under more stress. Just like it's easier to bend/break a 2' long stick than it is one of the same thickness, but only 1' long.

Again, this is if there are any inward stresses being applied.

 

[douglee25]

One thing I highly suggest is that if possible, make sure your pricing includes them fitting the boat to your trailer. Whether you can get your boat to the yard, or have a service tech visist your ramp and spend an afternoon fitting it, it will be very helpful. They should make sure not only the boat fits correctly to the trailer, but also the tongue weights, etc are correct.

Doug

 

[MExcelsior]

Looks nice. Couple of concerns - check the distance between the bottom of the boat up to any water inlets, thruhulls or scoops as you don't want them sitting on the bunks. Also, my trailers has three bunks on each side - 6 total. I would be somewhat concerned about all the weight sitting on only one bunk to each side. Should be OK for short periods of time but may put quite a bit of stress on that section of fiberglass is extended too long. I have surge brakes and they seem to do the job. I wouldn't jump into that project personally unless I saw a problem.
What kind of pricing you were able to get on that unit?

I have to agree with gerryb on the bunks. There should at least be 4 bunks. 2 mid-section very close to the bottom of the keel on both sides. Also, I think that a 290 should have a separate transom plate (bunk) for support. This trailer might be a good yard trailer, but I'm not sure I would feel comfortable hauling a 290 for considerable distances with the boat support so far out from the keel. I've attached a picture of what I believe the trailer should look like. If this is the trailer, then I would make sure it is adjusted to fit your boat as much as possible.

Good luck

Mike

 

[Lazy Daze]

One thing I highly suggest is that if possible, make sure your pricing includes them fitting the boat to your trailer. Whether you can get your boat to the yard, or have a service tech visist your ramp and spend an afternoon fitting it, it will be very helpful. They should make sure not only the boat fits correctly to the trailer, but also the tongue weights, etc are correct.

Doug

That's a good point. Whether they included it in the price, or are charging you separate. If they didn't already include it, figure about 1 1/2 hours - if the boat is at there facility - of actual labor time. Maybe a bit less, maybe a bit more.

 

[Cincy Aquaholic]

I have to agree with gerryb on the bunks. There should at least be 4 bunks. 2 mid-section very close to the bottom of the keel on both sides. Also, I think that a 290 should have a separate transom plate (bunk) for support. This trailer might be a good yard trailer, but I'm not sure I would feel comfortable hauling a 290 for considerable distances with the boat support so far out from the keel. I've attached a picture of what I believe the trailer should look like. If this is the trailer, then I would make sure it is adjusted to fit your boat as much as possible.

Good luck

Mike

That's interesting because 95% of the aluminum trailers I've researched (pretty much every maker) set them up like this. Notice the simple vertical bunks.

Yes, steel trailers typically have more bunks like in your pic but there are 100's of thousands made like the one in the pic here running all over the country. I thought the one I'm looking at was a nice improvement. I've heard nothing but good things re Loadrite.

 

[douglee25]

Mine is setup exactly as shown. No issues whatsoever.

Doug

 

[390pi]

I would assume it comes with guides at the rear of the trailer?

Some of your pics show them; others do not.

Important with loading with crosswinds and currents.

I agree with the elec. over hyd; I'm a bit over 11,000# and wish I had opted for that when I ordered my trailer.

Also; I recommend getting (2) spare tires if you plan on towing any significant distances.

 

[MExcelsior]

That's interesting because 95% of the aluminum trailers I've researched (pretty much every maker) set them up like this. Notice the simple vertical bunks.

I'm sure that it will work just fine and engineers that design these are a hell of a lot smarter than me. I think it just could be the area of the country that I am in.... just strange to see a lack of bunks at the keel and a transom support.

 

[beerman]

It's a nice looking trailer. I am sure they know what they are doing. I agree on the thought about more bunks and also on opting for the electric over hydraulic( I have it and it is a great option). I will get a pic of my trailer today. I know they took some time to set it up and it was also made for my 280 so no bunks were in the way of anything. Any possibility to upgrade to LED lights? Also, not sure on the aluminum rims. I would rather have steel, but that is just my preference. Good luck, it looks great.

 

[Sundancer]

I'm a fan of straight electric brakes. They engage quicker than electric over hydraulic. You will just have to select the ones that make sense to you. Straight electric aren't great for saltwater conditions, but I sling the boat in and out when we head to the San Juans.

I've been looking at adding bunks on our 300 DA trailer. Currently I have two 8x8's that it sits on and a couple near the keel would make me sleep better. You are right, there are a lot of trailers out there setup with just one bunk. I do have some supports up under the bow but I'd feel a whole lot better with a few extra square feet of support. We tow every weekend and think about it with every unusual bump I hit!

 

[Cincy Aquaholic]

I would assume it comes with guides at the rear of the trailer?

Some of your pics show them; others do not.

Important with loading with crosswinds and currents.

I agree with the elec. over hyd; I'm a bit over 11,000# and wish I had opted for that when I ordered my trailer.

Also; I recommend getting (2) spare tires if you plan on towing any significant distances.

Just to clarify, the trailer in the this other picture on page two is a different one. Notice the horizontal bunks and the guides. The horizontal bunk set up is what I see must of these aluminum ones come with. I actually like the set up on the one I will likely buy on the first page.

Thanks for all of your comments and suggestions.

 

[Lazy Daze]

You guys are probable right that it's strong enough. It was just one of those things that got me wondering. Although, we did actually stopped carrying LR a number of years ago as there were problems with trailers not fitting right on some of the bigger boats. It wasn't all of them, but a good deal of them. But, I'm sure that has also been addressed, as well. It is a nice looking trailer.

 

[keokie]

I'm with Lazy Daze on this. I'm not big on aluminum trailers that bolt the supporting mechanisms to the flange of the I-beams. I beams aren't designed to work this way. I know it is common and works fine in many cases, but I have also seen many aluminum trailers that have needed extensive re-inforcement after short priods of time. due to failures at the attachment points.

I am a big fan of aluminum trailers (wish My310's was aluminum), but I greatly prefer what are referred to as "fixed-bunk". I bought one for my 260 from Owens and Sons in Florida. It fit like a glove. I did not even have to move the bow stop. It is the best trailer I have owned. Here is a pic of how the I beam carries the weight of the boat:

Not the best angle, but if you look closely, you can see that the weight of the boat rests directly on top of the I beam. This is how I beams are intended to work.

As far a s brakes. The surge disc on all wheel will provide good stopping power, but will be of no help backing down a ramp.

 

[Quint4]

Looks nice...lots of good comments to ponder. Here is a pic of the trailer that came with my older 290 just for the hell of it. I put straight electric brakes on last year and love them. Trailered all last season with them every weekend.