New to the Westerbeke diesel generator - is this as loud as it should be?

Hold on.

Is it black slimy and/or stringy or is it like a light oily dust or powdery?

If the former , shock with Bio-Bor and treat with Diesel Kleen green label Run the fuel out and repeat.

However, if it’s a light and dusty it may be as Asphaltenes which are a byproduct of being heated and pressurized in the injection system. A little bit of that is normal.

Post some pictures. If you’ve been following the “cocktail” it likely isn’t a biological infection.
I suspect he has had an algae problem. Since he has been treating the fuel since owning the boat I think the black in the filters if fine particulate are dead bugs. Anything slimy or stringy is obvious however. To visibly turn filters black in only 60 hours of use wouldn't be asphaltenes right - especially if he is using fuel (boating)? I'd still be shocking the fuel.
 
I suspect he has had an algae problem. Since he has been treating the fuel since owning the boat I think the black in the filters if fine particulate are dead bugs. Anything slimy or stringy is obvious however. To visibly turn filters black in only 60 hours of use wouldn't be asphaltenes right - especially if he is using fuel (boating)? I'd still be shocking the fuel.
Nothing wrong with a shock treatment of BioBor. Can only help if that’s the issue. If he’s following the cocktail, I think an active infection unlikely, and it could be left over bugs sloshing around in the bottom of the tank.

I alway add a bottle of PS Clear Diesel over the winter/once a year to get rid of any water/crap that accumulated over the last year. It’s taken me several years to get everything cleaned up.
 
Thanks everyone, time to shock.

If I do not have an algae problem I am hearing doing a shock will not cause any harm, correct?
 
Thanks everyone, time to shock.

If I do not have an algae problem I am hearing doing a shock will not cause any harm, correct?

No harm with any of the additives listed above. Get some Power Services Clear Diesel and add that as well. Helps clear up water and any residual slime.

Water is the thing you really want to get rid of in your tanks. It the required ingredient for the microbes, plus it can lead to corrosion in the tank...both very bad.

While your at it, if you haven't replaced the fuel fill o-rings, replace to prevent water intrusion thru the fills.
 
This? https://www.amazon.com/Power-Servic...er+service+clear+diesel&qid=1686143322&sr=8-5

After all of this is done will I need to replace the engine mounted filters again as well? Or just the Racors?

Thats it. If you don't have an active microbial infection and filters are mostly clear, I'd just continue on with the regular MX schedule. You can add the Racor vacuum gauges to your Racors to know if you have a problem. This will take the guess work out of it.

upload_2023-6-7_9-24-14.png
 
Lost a couple hundred WOT RPMs between winter and spring, wondering if this is the source now.
Considering your filters were mildly black, I doubt its fuel related. This is probably due to the bottom being fouled. It doesn't take much, just a small layer of slime, and you'll notice a decrease in performance. If you have Boost and EGT, you also see it there pretty quick, hence the reason a lot of owners add those gauges.
 
Thats it. If you don't have an active microbial infection and filters are mostly clear, I'd just continue on with the regular MX schedule. You can add the Racor vacuum gauges to your Racors to know if you have a problem. This will take the guess work out of it.

View attachment 145594
Hmm, interesting. Is it as simple as replacing the T handle on there now with this one?
 
... To visibly turn filters black in only 60 hours of use wouldn't be asphaltenes right - especially if he is using fuel (boating)? I'd still be shocking the fuel.

I get this at times at the end of the season if my tank is close to full. My 2cycles recycle my tank(s) quickly. Took a while to learn that.
 
Took this video to show starting the generator. Ignored the last part where it started and shut off. When letting go of the preheat switch at the generator it shuts off, back at the cabin panel it stays on.

Does this sound like normal starting to you? Again ignored the last part, not sure what that is.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/tB8nbyx5bP8mgZN39

that is not a normal starting sequence. Mine fires after about 2-3 seconds from cold, does it stay running once you get it there? (when starting from the remote panel)
 
that is not a normal starting sequence. Mine fires after about 2-3 seconds from cold, does it stay running once you get it there? (when starting from the remote panel)
From the cabin panel, yes it stays running once it starts. When I let go of the pre heat switch at the generator, in the video, it stopped running.
 
From the cabin panel, yes it stays running once it starts. When I let go of the pre heat switch at the generator, in the video, it stopped running.

yeah that part makes sense but the repeated cranking is a concern. I don't know these engines and their fuel system well enough but it seems like it takes a bunch of tries to get fuel pressure up and injectors to fire, maybe a weak injection pump? How does it run once it fires, smooth and continuous voltage?
 
Cool, and what should the pressure be? And should the pressure change at different RPMs/Loads? At a minimum it's a good diagnostics tool to buy to test all 3 Racors IMO.
White=Good
Yellow=schedule filter change
Red=change now.

CAT publishes a max fuel vacuum value, and I want to say it’s about 7 in*Hg, which is about the yellow arc on these gauges. They have a drag pointer to record the max value.
 
For clarity, I can pour all of these products into the tanks at one time?

  • Power Service 09016-09 Bio Kleen Diesel Fuel Biocide
  • Power Service 09280-06 Clear-Diesel Fuel & Tank Cleaner
  • Power Service 08080-06 Diesel 9•1•1 Fuel Additive

 
Yes, although I use the biobor instead of bio kleen since it was recommended in Frank's article. The biocide is the most important piece for you on killing off algae and many of us have had good success with that brand. I'm sure bio kleen works as well, but I've never tried it.

We had BLACK filters when I bought the boat and a single shock treatment of biobor killed it all off - two racor changes later and the filters were pink
 
Looks like Blackstone has a diesel fuel testing kit, I think I will get one to test.

Yes, although I use the biobor instead of bio kleen since it was recommended in Frank's article. The biocide is the most important piece for you on killing off algae and many of us have had good success with that brand. I'm sure bio kleen works as well, but I've never tried it.

We had BLACK filters when I bought the boat and a single shock treatment of biobor killed it all off - two racor changes later and the filters were pink
Correction, I already have the BIOPOR on the boat, forgot to copy that here.
 

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