New to sea-ray just bought a 2009 185 4.3 mpi

[adamgll]

Hey guys I am new to sea-ray and this forum. I just came from a 1993 stingray 556 (185) 3.0L 115hp.

The boat is two tone blue with the wake tower, the mpi motor, and the bucket seats that extend.

I am really happy with my purchase and I hope I will enjoy the usage from this boat.

I was just wondering the best way to break-in the motor. My 1993 stingray had only about 300 hours (original owner) So it does not get out often.

I read the mercruiser stuff, but I am a car guy and I think it should be ran hard with hard acceleration runs.

I also believe in changing the oil shortly after a few hours of break in time.

I also wanted to know if the oem prop is good, because I need to buy a spare one in case. (the vengeance 21p)

Thanks and happy holidays to all

Here is a teaser pic:

 

[Alpheus]

I read the mercruiser stuff, but I am a car guy and I think it should be ran hard with hard acceleration runs.

I think you should pay attention to the "Mercruiser stuff". being a car guy do you have the thousands of hours and engineering reports plus the decades of research that know what works and what dosent when it comes to breaking in a new engine? Follow the manuals to the letter. If anything goes wrong at least you wont void any warantees...

 

[black magic]

Well, being a "car guy" myself, I'd still suggest following the manual. Granted it has a steering wheel and a GM V6, that is about where the similarities end. There are many other components that need to "break-in", not just the engine. With that said, hard acceleration runs may cause damage to other parts. I do agree with the quick oil/filter change after a few hours on the clock.

BTW, great boat, you'll love it! I got mine used with an aftermarket SS prop, so I can't advise there.

 

[TexasA&M]

I believe the MPI motors still come from the factory with a SS prop. The 21" pitch will push that boat well. As far as a spare, it just depends on what you want to use the boat for. I have a 2005 185 4.3MPI and I do a lot of slalom skiing with it. I wasn't happy with the hole shot that the 3 blade offered, so I bought a 19" High Five (5 blade). It made a huge difference. My boat is heavier than yours though (older design), so you may not need to make such a large change.

 

[springer3]

+1 on following the manufacturer's instructions, including the time for the first oil change. Oil also has a breaking-in period, and the best protection is from oil that has run for a bit. It is a waste of money at best to change oil too early.

 

[black magic]

+1 on following the manufacturer's instructions, including the time for the first oil change. Oil also has a breaking-in period, and the best protection is from oil that has run for a bit. It is a waste of money at best to change oil too early.

I feel its not really about the condition or performance of the oil, but more about the metal particles/shavings from a tight motor rotating and breaking in that are floating in it that concern me. Personally, once I have broken in any engine, I'll change the oil and filter just to remove any chance of shavings making there way back through the motor or even hindering the performance of the filter. I'm not sure what the manufacture's suggestion is on the first oil change, but one thing is for sure, it won't hurt anything to get that oil out of there early.

 

[adamgll]

Thanks guys for the info it is really appreciated.

Break in time for oil?

There is specific oil used just for qualification laps that stay in the motor for no longer then 1 hour until it gets drained. A simple cold start will do more damage then new oil on warm start. Changing the oil after 1-2 hours of use is anal but it insures proper lubrication throughout the break-in period.

Last I checked something with cylinder walls, piston, piston rings, connecting rods are extremely similar in the way they function as a car motor but yes like you said there are others parts involved. To say a car motor should be broken in different then a boat motor is false. One can only argue the way they get broken in. Manufacturers put their recommendations to avoid any liabilities. I do agree though with other parts needing to be broken in, such as the gears and clutch. In an ideal world, I believe the motor should not be broken in along with the powertrain sans engine.

Maybe I was not clear, but by breaking it in hard I do not mean WOT for 15 or 20 hours straight, but hard on the accelerations (2/3-3/4 gas) and WOT on occasion.

All the car engines that have followed this route have pulled very strong and maintained very high compression throughout their life. I do a lot of racing and it has worked for friends and myself.

Happy new year

 

[adamgll]

I believe the MPI motors still come from the factory with a SS prop. The 21" pitch will push that boat well. As far as a spare, it just depends on what you want to use the boat for. I have a 2005 185 4.3MPI and I do a lot of slalom skiing with it. I wasn't happy with the hole shot that the 3 blade offered, so I bought a 19" High Five (5 blade). It made a huge difference. My boat is heavier than yours though (older design), so you may not need to make such a large change.

Did you notice a bit loss top end? Btw what is the top speed of of your boat? i believe the 09's are 2600lbs, any idea what yours weigh?

 

[David Morgan]

I stuck to the manufacturers break in recommendations to stay within the requirements of the warranty. An oil analysis at 100 hours is probably a good idea to cover yourself in case there are any internal problems.

 

[springer3]

I feel its not really about the condition or performance of the oil, but more about the metal particles/shavings from a tight motor rotating and breaking in that are floating in it that concern me.....

Your new oil will not be as clean as oil that has made multiple passes through a good quality oil filter. The filter does a great job removing particles. Don't waste your money on an early oil change. It simply is not needed.

 

[black magic]

Your new oil will not be as clean as oil that has made multiple passes through a good quality oil filter. The filter does a great job removing particles. Don't waste your money on an early oil change. It simply is not needed.

I'm going to have to respectfully disagree. With a fresh engine, there will be quite a bit of metal particles due to the nature of the metal on metal contact. Yes, the filter will grab most of these particles, but while it is doing it's job of "filtering" the oil, the filter is becoming more and more clogged and restricted. By changing the oil and filter soon after break-in, you starting over with a fresh filter and oil. Why would somebody not want this? Cost? Really? I'm not saying switch to synthetic (boy, thats a talking point), but IF you are capable of changing the oil yourself with ease, then why not spend the $30 for the added security?

 

[adamgll]

Btw what is the factory fill for the oil, I am assuming is full synthetic 20w40? I used straight weight bp sae30 in my old mercruiser and it worked well.

 

[springer3]

I'm going to have to respectfully disagree. .....why not spend the $30 for the added security?

Because you are spending money to do harm. Oil is filtered at the refinery to remove the same grit you are talking about. It gets cleaner as the engine filter constanty refilters it. The filter has more than enough capacity to filter to the manufacturer's recommended change interval. After its running in period, the filter actually becomes more effective at removing the finer particles.

+1 on follow the manufacturer's instructions. Believe it or not, they know more than you do about the subject. Spend the money if it makes you feel better, but don't think you are helping the engine last, and stop posting incorrect information.

 

[black magic]

Because you are spending money to do harm. ..... and stop posting incorrect information.

So, what you are saying is changing your oil early after break-in actually causes harm? Yet, I'm the one who is posting incorrect information? :huh: This is a supposed to be a friendly and informative forum, so how about we agree to disagree and enjoy our boats? :thumbsup:

My appologies to the OP for getting off topic.

My opinion as far as breaking in the new engine on the boat is to follow the manufactures suggestions. I understand where you are coming from as far as the hard accelerations runs. Sounds like you have have an LSx.

 

[adamgll]

I find it a joke that some people say "live by the manufacturer's instructions. Believe it or not, they know more than you do about the subject."

These are the same people that claim certain fluids to be "lifetime" and oil changes at 15 000km intervals, and let's go make a pinto etc etc and the list goes on.

According to your logic the filter keeps getting better, and the oil keeps getting cleaner why even change it ever? I can keep my hands clean, save the $30. Lifetime oil and lifetime filter let's market this.

 

[springer3]

.....According to your logic the filter keeps getting better, and the oil keeps getting cleaner why even change it ever? I can keep my hands clean, save the $30. Lifetime oil and lifetime filter let's market this.

You are distorting what was said. I never claimed you could go longer than the recommended intervals.

What I said was the oil and filter are not at their peak when brand new. They improve up to a point with normal use. It is not a good idea to change them before they reach their peak condition. You should, of course, change them when they are past their peak - which is after the recommended change interval. Changing early is not just a waste of your time and $30. You will suffer lower protection until the new oil and filter are conditioned by use.

 

[adamgll]

somebody please pinch me I must be in a dream....

so now you are saying the peak performance of the oil occurs AFTER the recommended change interval... so why change something before the peak?!?!?!?!?! Using your logic you are wasting money.

I don't like to be sarcastic (this debate is done in taste) but your logic is very flawed.

it's like buying a stock @ $1.00 knowing it will rise to $2.00 but analyst mister springer3 tells me to sell at $1.50 cause he is the ceo and knows best.

happy holidays I love this thread

 

[springer3]

Another distortion of what was said. The manufacturer's change interval has some margin to ensure you do not run after the oil starts to degrade.

Please do not get upset when someone attempts to correct wasteful advice. You are obviously not a tribologist (study of wear, friction, and lubrication). I respect the research, testing, and expertise of those who say it is not an improvement to change filter and oil that are properly conditioned. New oil needs some time to reach peak effectivness. After multiple passes through the filter, the oil has lower particulates than the oil that the factory filters only a few times.

Best wishes for your enjoyment of your new boat in the new year. I need to get out to change the year-old oil in mine before I can take it out again.

 

[TheJoker]

I bought my boat in 2006 and when I purchased the boat I bought the stuff I needed for a oil change at the same time. At 10 hours I changed it. Then every year since. It now has 90 hours on it and runs great. Now I run amsoil and boat runs great and oil looks new still after this season of boating. My advise is that everyone does different things and reads different ways to break in engines. I think that 40 bucks to added safety is worth it.