New member, new old boat. 1982 SRV-200 pictures inside! A few questions I have.

Well progress has been slow but I've had a lot going on. This rebuild turned into getting into another Sea Ray (an 82 255 Amberjack) and replacing the motor in it also. I picked up a running motor this weekend and have it on the lift.

The motor on the left is the one going into the SRV200 and the one on the right is out of the Amberjack


I'll be going through it a rebuilding this little guy before I put it in the boat. I don't want to wind up dead on the water because I didn't spend a little time to check this thing out first. :smt089 I already have it torn down and will be checking the specs on it over the next few evenings.

I'm planning on getting the motor back in towards the end of the month. I'd like to float this girl sometime in early March. :grin::grin:
 
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Monkypops, glad to see the update. Too bad about the block crack but it sounds like you are on top of it though. I will make one point here regarding your Ford rims. If you are still using them get them off. The rim were not made to take the impact of falling off a ramp or hitting a curb with the tire when turning. They are made with magnesium and as time goes they become very brittle. If they are 65's then you can bet they are brittle as glass. New billet rims or coated steel are the way to go.

Save them rims for the car not the trailer.
 
Are you putting the engine pictured on the left into the boat dirrectly. It has the automotive manifolds on it so i am assuming it came out of a car. BAD NEWS. THAT WONT WORK....LONG.
The blocks are the same along with many other parts. But you can't just pull an engine out of a car and have it last. The head gaskets need to be all metal and the freeze plugs brass. Also a marine cam for the higher RPM a boat runs with. You don't drive a Chevy V8 at 3400 RPM for long periods of time. But you will with the boat.
You can rebuild that engine for marine use with some expence. And re use most of what you have. But the direct transplant is not possible.
Feel free to PM me for info. I am building a high power smallblock Chevy for my 78 SRV200.
Steve
 
Here is a link to my build for the 78. It is ready to be built but not done yet.
http://clubsearay.com/showthread.php/44493-350-CID-Merc-Rebuild-Project-1978-SRV-200

The internals are the same as the Automotive counterpart. Standard rotation engines as they are don't need anything special so everything installs the same. No need to twist the pistons backwards.
The pistons I bought are forged to help handle the extra heat. I am installing aftermarket rod bolts for higher strength for the anticipated higher RPMs.
The Head Gaskets will be a bass one piece thin style for the marine (occasional salt water) use. Also this is for the added compression. I am going good to be around 9.75:1 so I can run 87 octane cheap gas and still be able to properly burn Hi Test. Standard heads will work but I will be using a ported set fro Summit Racing. THEY MUST BE IRON. This also goes with the intake. Summit makes a high flow performance intake for marine aplications. The exhaust will be thru hull style with center riser manifolds from Stainless Marine.

Hope that helps
 
jitts3 said:
Are you putting the engine pictured on the left into the boat dirrectly. It has the automotive manifolds on it so i am assuming it came out of a car. BAD NEWS. THAT WONT WORK....LONG.
The blocks are the same along with many other parts. But you can't just pull an engine out of a car and have it last. The head gaskets need to be all metal and the freeze plugs brass. Also a marine cam for the higher RPM a boat runs with. You don't drive a Chevy V8 at 3400 RPM for long periods of time. But you will with the boat.
You can rebuild that engine for marine use with some expence. And re use most of what you have. But the direct transplant is not possible.
Feel free to PM me for info. I am building a high power smallblock Chevy for my 78 SRV200.
Steve
Click to expand...

Yes that is the new motor on the left and no I don't plan to just swap it in. I've read about several problems trying to do that. Thanks for the heads up.

I plan on using the heads and cam that came from the old motor. It was an 82 and my new motor is an 84. I am basically going to pull the bottom end of the new motor apart and spec everything to make sure it is still within tolerance. I'm not 100% against a total rebuild but i'd like to avoid it if I can. All new seals plugs and copper head gaskets.



OldSkool thanks for the heads up on those rims. That was the last thing on my mind.. Originally I had thought about pulling them and selling them on the craigslist. I have a feeling they might be worth a few dollars to a ford mustang fan, but That thought has been swept under the bus do to the other important issues. :thumbsup::thumbsup:
 
At that point you may want to spend a few bucks for a re ring kit. New rings and bearings.
 
jitts3 said:
At that point you may want to spend a few bucks for a re ring kit. New rings and bearings.
Click to expand...

Steve, I agree. If you are going that deep a ring and bearing kit are cheap.

Monkypops, If the cross hatch honing is still in good shape on the cylinder walls then a standard set should work. You may already know this but pull a piston and remove the rings, reinstall it and check the bore to piston gap with a feeler gauge. Divide by 2 and that's your side to side measurement. Install the new rings and install the piston check the ring gap against spec.
Again you probably already know this and I'm preaching to the choir.
 
OldSkool said:
Steve, I agree. If you are going that deep a ring and bearing kit are cheap.

Monkypops, If the cross hatch honing is still in good shape on the cylinder walls then a standard set should work. You may already know this but pull a piston and remove the rings, reinstall it and check the bore to piston gap with a feeler gauge. Divide by 2 and that's your side to side measurement. Install the new rings and install the piston check the ring gap against spec.
Again you probably already know this and I'm preaching to the choir.
Click to expand...




I've rebuilt quite a few engines.. I sell motorcycles and do the repairs and motor rebuilds in house at my shop. I don't have the lack of tools if you haven't noticed.. Haha

I'm a bit out of my element though I'm not going to lie, this is my first V8 but not full size engine... I have a manual and I'm doing things by the book, I don't want to wind up dead in the water because I skipped a step. I pulled her apart this evening, I should have taken pictures but she looked ok... The cross hatch in 6 cylinders is good but I'm not happy with two of them. I have a bore hone and I'm going to do some measuring on them tomorrow. I will be ordering a ring kit most likely.

I really appreciate you guys on this forum. I know what brand I'm sticking with. I went straight to the Sea Ray dealer at our recent boat show. Too bad we didn't have anything more than a runabout..

I'm going to have her on the water for Thunder over Louisville 2014 which is one of the largest fireworks shows in the country. We get the privilege of having it here on the Ohio river across from louisvill, Ky. Free to watch. My docks are right around the bend.

456145_379385512080640_1888641450_o.jpg




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Just for an idea. I had a local and reputable machine shop do my block for my 78 project. They boiled the block. Bored/honed her 30 over, pressed in my new camera bearings, press fit my new pistons onto the original connecting rods and bored the rods and caps back circular. (They get pounded oval). Soup to nuts $660.00. But for the life of me I can't remember what the rebuild kit cost. Charlene remembered the machine shop price. And she says she is the one with the bad memory.....:huh:

The link I posted shows my teardown and the failure. The original block was trashed. But I have 350 Chevy blocks both 2 and 1 piece rear seals coming out my ears. Some recommend I run a 4 bolt main, but I don't see the need. I'm not drag racing her.:thumbsup:

Post pics and do some reading on the Chevy Smallblock. Precision measuring tools and Plasti Guage are your best friends.
 
jitts3 said:
Just for an idea. I had a local and reputable machine shop do my block for my 78 project. They boiled the block. Bored/honed her 30 over, pressed in my new camera bearings, press fit my new pistons onto the original connecting rods and bored the rods and caps back circular. (They get pounded oval). Soup to nuts $660.00. But for the life of me I can't remember what the rebuild kit cost. Charlene remembered the machine shop price. And she says she is the one with the bad memory.....:huh:

The link I posted shows my teardown and the failure. The original block was trashed. But I have 350 Chevy blocks both 2 and 1 piece rear seals coming out my ears. Some recommend I run a 4 bolt main, but I don't see the need. I'm not drag racing her.:thumbsup:

Post pics and do some reading on the Chevy Smallblock. Precision measuring tools and Plasti Guage are your best friends.
Click to expand...
I've built 400hp sbc motors that were 2 bolt main and they were just fine.

I can't believe I hadn't seen this thread before now...

Nice slip! I think I drove across that bridge coming home from Petosky Michigan two summers ago.
 
More happening soon. I have the motor apart and parts on the way. I'll have this girl in the water by mid to late march. Looking forward to the 2014 season.


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Well we all know how life gets in the way. Knocked up the ole lady and have a little one on the way. Things had slowed down on the boat until this weekend. My friends and I got the motor I rebuilt installed and the outdrive rebuilt and installed. If plans go the way I'd like to, She will be making her maiden voyage this Sunday.
 
Great project. Keep up the good work. On a side note keep in mind that car wheels are not designed for a trailer, especially a tandem. Have you ever noticed the sidewalls on a tandem when you turn a corner? I'm not saying you will ever have a issue but I would swap them out for trailer wheels.
 
monkypops said:
Well we all know how life gets in the way. Knocked up the ole lady and have a little one on the way. Things had slowed down on the boat until this weekend. My friends and I got the motor I rebuilt installed and the outdrive rebuilt and installed. If plans go the way I'd like to, She will be making her maiden voyage this Sunday.
Click to expand...

How's the Amberjack coming along?
 
270win said:
How's the Amberjack coming along?
Click to expand...

haha. I don't even want to talk about that boat! Alex has dropped the ball and she has been sitting for a bit. I have the engine to put in it we just haven't made the time to put the engine in.

I have a feeling she won't be on the water till next season.
 
monkypops said:
haha. I don't even want to talk about that boat! Alex has dropped the ball and she has been sitting for a bit. I have the engine to put in it we just haven't made the time to put the engine in.

I have a feeling she won't be on the water till next season.
Click to expand...

I understand...I've got a 70' Nova sitting in the shop I'm wanting to restore and it's going nowhere. Life happens!
 
Hey Monkeypops, welcome to CSR- nice boat you have. Got this a little late, but as I was looking thru your post, wanted give a picture of the access hatch that is on my SRV between the consoles-might give you some more ideas as to what you are wanting to do. The way it is designed on mine, when you open the hatch, you have access to the underside of the bow structure and floor- its a good amount of room for storage. The hatch is hinged at the top, I can get dimensions for you if that would help. Its a tight squeeze for me. I can get my shoulders in one at time by wiggling, but the midsection wouldn't quite make it..
 

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