New life in the shift cables

KC_Sundancer

Active Member
Sep 8, 2009
1,341
Munising, Michigan (Lake Superior) Pictured Rocks
Boat Info
1985 270DA Sundancer,Simrad 4G Radar,Lowrance Gen2 GPS/Sonar/Structure Scan,F350 7.3l Diesel, tri-ax
Engines
twin Mercruiser 185R's (v6's) w/SE106 drives, "High Five" stainless props, Mercury 280 RIB w/9.9 Mer
New life in the shift cables

I had done this a few years ago and thought some may be able to put this to use on the older craft and save a few bucks.
After putting the new drives on shifting was becoming an issue. To extend the life of the shift cables I did a bit of maintenance which can be done much easier than just replacing them. This also let me inspect them for wear in case they really did need replacing, which they did not. Shifting has never been smoother.​
This is done on a pair of Mercruiser 185's (V6's) with Alpha drives and should be similiar to most cable set-ups. (Note the outdrives are already removed) The pictures will help in knowing what small parts are coming out.

cable1lg.jpg

Step 1 was to remove the shift cable attachment on the engine end.


cable2lg.jpg

Tape the barrel nut to keep your shift setting saved.


cable3lg.jpg

Remove the set screws that clamp to the shift cable.


cable4lg.jpg

This is what the end cable clamp assembly looks like when removed.




cable5lg.jpg

Cable end removed




cable6lg.jpg

Here is the outdrive end of the shift cable.


cable7lg.jpg

Pull the shift cable out through the sleeve. Inspect for any broken strands. If there are any the cable assembly will need to be replaced.
If good; clean and apply a coat of marine grease.



cable8lg.jpg


Lubricate the cable sleeve.
This is an attachment I rigged up with a silicone sealant tip and hose clamp.
I clamped this to the engine end of the sleeve.​
Then I used my outdrive lubricant and pump to force lubricant through the sleeve.



cable9lg.jpg

I had someone watch the outdrive end to let me know when it started coming through.



cable10lg.jpg

The cleaned and greased shift cable was then fed back through the sleeve.
Last step was to put everything else back together.
You may also need to fine tune the shift linkage with everything moving smoother - I did.

Less expensive and much easier then replacing the cable assembly - 2 years since it was done and still shifting like new.​
 
Last edited:
Great write up!
 
Just launched I wish your post came out sooner. I will try this next season. My shifting is a little cranky to start the season with 3 year old cables may try to adjust. Any other ideas on getting lube down with boat in water? thanks
+1
 
That is a great write up..... however I just replaced both shift cables on my Alpha I Gen II and the instructions that came with the Mercusier cable kit clearly states not to oil or grease the cable... because it will cause it not to shift correctly -this maybe a good service for older style cables? I am not so sure on the new style......
BTW -the new cables only has metal on the ends (about 6 inches) and the rest of the cable is black -looks like some sort of graphite?
 
That is a great write up..... however I just replaced both shift cables on my Alpha I Gen II and the instructions that came with the Mercusier cable kit clearly states not to oil or grease the cable... because it will cause it not to shift correctly -this maybe a good service for older style cables? I am not so sure on the new style......
BTW -the new cables only has metal on the ends (about 6 inches) and the rest of the cable is black -looks like some sort of graphite?

Good point - new cables may be a low friction carbon fiber.
The older cables here are your typical metal cable. Either way I think the concern is that with thick grease and/or possibly mixing with water, may gum up and the cable may not slide freely and "stick" to the sleeve causing the cut-out switch to stall the engine. Which in my case was happening without the lubrication. That was my reasoning for using synthetic lower unit lube which has been working perfectly on both engines, even with weather down in the 30's.

wakeup 19: As far as lubricating in the water - not sure - I did try pumping lube down the cable while it was in the water but it would not go.
 
Here's what happened to mine... on your picture (Here is the outdrive end of the shift cable) the roller arm is attached to the shift shaft -there is a seal or 2 (depending on what year and model) that holds the water out that is pressed in the bell housing -well 95% of all cable fallers are a result of the seal or shift shaft going bad (it lets the water in and then water runs up the cable) -mine from the out side looked great but when I took the roller arm off and slide the shift shaft down and off I could not believe my eyes...the shift shaft where the seal rides was pitted almost half way through the shaft -unbelievable -any way its a very good idea to check that shaft and seal when you have the drive off -alot of people never check it and wonder why the shift cable only lasts 2-3 years
BTW.. they make a new seal kit for all Alpha drives for that shaft
 
Great added point on checking the vertical shift shaft seal / seals while apart, the possible root cause of your cable problems.
 
I have a clamp on adapter for lubing cables from back in my motorcycle days. Something like that could work here and allow the different kinds of lubricants that come in spray cans. I've seen different ones but basically they look like this. http://www.amazon.com/Motorcycle-inline-spray-lubricant-cable/dp/B004NV41MU


Thanks for sharing!
Something I could have used in a bunch of different cable applications. I need to get one for use with the ATV's and snow machines.
 
Thanks for the info! I did this over the weekend and just as soon as I find the gremlin that's causing my overheating issue, I'll let you know how it works.
 
As an additional note I would add that when you take the nylon lock nut off, to be sure that the stud stays tight. The position of that stud is important.
 

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