new dash for multifunction disply c120w

[K-9]

The dash/helm of my boat does not look like it will work as-is,,,??has anyone made a new dash to hold mfd and gauges7?? I would like to thank you for any advice.
1980 sundancer need to+ c120w+ 7 smartcraft gauges+9 switches...oh thats all..

 

[CSR_Admin]

Contact Scott at Vector. His site is vectorled.com. He makes awesome dash panels and has reasonable prices.

 

[Pseudomind]

Who do you know that makes custom stand-of frames. I had this made to offset my RLC80CRC from Starboard, but would prefer something more refined, that is if the price is right.

The left side is about 4 inches and the right is about1/2 inch, so it angles the plotter more towards the helm. gives a much better view without having to move to the left from the helm position. Actually I would not mind if it had a couple more inches of angle.

Look at the white item under the plotter.

 

[Lazy Daze]

If you made a "template" or an "example" of exactly what you wanted, some car audio installers are pretty good at fabricating stuff out of fiberglass.

 

[Cocktail Time]

x2, Most good custom car audio installation companies makes similar fiberglass enclosures often. I would go that route if a pod type install is not what you are looking for. Scott at Vector does a great job on panels once you have a template for the new dash openings. Please, if you do go this route, make sure to take a lot of pictures before and after. I'm sure that there are a lot of people that would like to attempt this but want to see one done first. Best of luck!

 

[tobnpr]

My helm was not large enough to house the electronics I wanted to install. It wasn't a matter of a new facepiece or panel. I completely tore out the factory dash and built a larger (taller) one. Back in the day they didn't have the electronics we have now...

 

[K-9]

where to start...the size of the c120w takes up most and still need room for gauges this has been interesting making models then mock-up and then ....you think of something new...how about a wrap around...nah..to much time..kiss box style it is,,,

 

[Lazy Daze]

View attachment 6970 where to start...

Start? I thought that was your end result?! :grin:

 

[Henry Boyd]

When I upgraded to SC and added the SystemView monitor I had to redo the dash. Because of the curve shape and bend in the panel, and running out of time, I ended up creatin a large flat panel.

This was done in teak and looks ok. Since this was built I have been practicing with creating bent laminated panels (aka plywood), and will be attempting to re-create the original form of the 280 panel in laminated teak over the winter.

Henry

 

[K-9]

:grin:this is what I had to start with

 

[Lazy Daze]

:grin:this is what I had to start with

Oh, you poor soul. But, good luck - I'm sure whatever you do will make that look 100% better!

Henry, from a layman's perspective (ie: my perspective) that sounds pretty ambitious (teak ply)! Is it much more difficult to do that with teak than other woods? (your pics from above didn't show up on my computer)

 

[Henry Boyd]

Dennis,

Technically it really isn't a plywood because I am not not going to alternating the the grain directions. The idea is to cut the stock into thin sheets (3/16"). I'm hoping to get 3 of these from a piece of 4/4 teak stock. These will then bend to conform to the approximate 6" bow over 36" length.

I've got to build a form that matches the bend of the main dash panel. The pieces will be coated with epoxy and then clamped together on the form. When cured I hope to have a bow shaped board, from that I'll have to cut out the holes for the gauges and make a mount for the SC5000.

The whole thing is going to be teak because I want to make sure that there are no issues caused by different expansion and contraction rates. The big problem has been finding a millwork shop with a large enough bandsaw, that also had a re-saw blade that was either close to replacement, or sharpening.

Henry

 

[K-9]

:smt001 have you tried verneer layers to shape and then laminate??

Dennis,

Technically it really isn't a plywood because I am not not going to alternating the the grain directions. The idea is to cut the stock into thin sheets (3/16"). I'm hoping to get 3 of these from a piece of 4/4 teak stock. These will then bend to conform to the approximate 6" bow over 36" length.

I've got to build a form that matches the bend of the main dash panel. The pieces will be coated with epoxy and then clamped together on the form. When cured I hope to have a bow shaped board, from that I'll have to cut out the holes for the gauges and make a mount for the SC5000.

The whole thing is going to be teak because I want to make sure that there are no issues caused by different expansion and contraction rates. The big problem has been finding a millwork shop with a large enough bandsaw, that also had a re-saw blade that was either close to replacement, or sharpening.

Henry

 

[Henry Boyd]

:smt001 have you tried verneer layers to shape and then laminate??

I thought about using veneers, but was concerned that with the amount of glue I had use the wood would become saturated. I'm also going to round the edges like the original and thought the thicker pieces will provide a more 'solid' look.

Your dash panel would be pretty easy to do as it is flat. The only complication is how much clearance you have behind it. Unless you decide to go with the really large gauges, the holes can be cut with standard hole saw blades. Off the top of my head I don't recall the exact sizes. Raymarine also provides a template for flush mounting their stuff. I've found that gluing the template to MDF, and then using a jig or band saw to cut out where the hole is makes a great pattern that allows you to use a router to cut the finished hole.

Henry

 

[K-9]

:smt001 Yes the stock dash is flat but at that angle hard to see sitting,, so I raise the panel up and at the same angle as the helm..add top and sides plus filler on right side tokeep everything square glass it over cut out for mfd and gauges relocate switch panel to lower helm:grin:

I thought about using veneers, but was concerned that with the amount of glue I had use the wood would become saturated. I'm also going to round the edges like the original and thought the thicker pieces will provide a more 'solid' look.

Your dash panel would be pretty easy to do as it is flat. The only complication is how much clearance you have behind it. Unless you decide to go with the really large gauges, the holes can be cut with standard hole saw blades. Off the top of my head I don't recall the exact sizes. Raymarine also provides a template for flush mounting their stuff. I've found that gluing the template to MDF, and then using a jig or band saw to cut out where the hole is makes a great pattern that allows you to use a router to cut the finished hole.

Henry

 

[tobnpr]

Henry:
Have you considered using a piece of teak veneer plywood, with a bunch of kerfs (maybe every 1/2" or so) cut almost all the way through the back side to the face veneer? The kerfs could be filled with a thickened epoxy mixture, then set in place to mold to the curve. Once the epoxy sets up, it'll hold the shape permanently.