Need new anchor chain

S

SAC850

New Member
May 5, 2015
45
Northwest Florida
Boat Info
97 Sundancer 450DA "Three Buoy's and a Lady"
11 Chaparral Sunesta 264
Engines
Cat 3126's 420hp
The anchor chain I inherited is basically garbage after the first 50' it's corroded together. The model is Lofrans Progress 1, after searching here it appears the replacement chain is 5/16th G4, for example:

http://www.westmarine.com/buy/west-...-galvanized-high-test-chain--P005_154_001_002

The question I have is all chain the way to go? I always thought it was a combo and was surprised to see only chain in the locker. I was under the impression there had to be spring in the line to absorb shock obviously chain would not have that ability. I do have to say half the time it appear the mere weight of the chain was doing the majority of the job vs. the anchor.

Since I'm in a saltwater environment what is the best practice to keep this from happening again? Interestingly enough the last section of the chain looks okay just the middle section, needless to say I don't trust any of it
 
I use a rope chain combo, but have seen plenty of people who use all chain rodes.
If using an all chain rode though, you should be using a snubber to absorb the shock from the tension with it.
It will save your elctric windlass too.
Google "Anchor Chain Snubber" for images and to get an idea how they work.
 
Duplicate deleted
 
Last edited:
I've had both and would never return to combo chain and rode. The benefits of all chain are the simplicity factor of bringing the chain in without the rode slipping in the windless. Too many times I have had the fear of losing a finger in the windless. All chain, fears are gone. Good luck.
BTW, I have a very nice snubber and that takes the shock out of the system!
 
Problem with the snubber, is you still have to get out on the bow. Beauty of the rope, chain rode, you can do it all from the helm.
 
scoflaw said:
Problem with the snubber, is you still have to get out on the bow. Beauty of the rope, chain rode, you can do it all from the helm.
Click to expand...


Maybe for a lunch stop but if you are going to stay overnight you need to tie it off on the cleat at the bow so it doesn't slip in the gypsy overnight.
 
Also have to go onto the bow to unhook the safety clip on the anchor.
 
Never had my rode slip in the gypsy, even under rough conditions. Never use the safety clip, ever
 
I was lucky, my rope spilt and I lost my anchor the first time out this year. Made the decision to go to all chain and wish I had done that a long time ago.

When anchoring just myself, I'd never see the chain tight - but always held great. A couple of weeks ago we had a huge overnight tie-up with 45 boats. With the 10 kt breeze, I ended up being the anchor boat due to my position, literally holding our circle together. It was the first time I've seen my chain taught, and it was great knowing we or the tie up wasn't going anywhere.

450? Don't even think twice, go all chain. Aside from it being totally functional operating from the helm, an added side bonus is when I go to cruise, the extra weight up front noticeably helps her plane and hold nicely. Wish I'd done this a long time ago.
 
New anchor chain and rode are on my todo list.

All chain is great for tight anchorages and deep water as scope is generally 3:1 (lunch hook) to 5:1 (overnight), where rope/chain combo is more like 5:1 to 7:1. In heavy weather add anther 2:1 or more for either case.

If all chain you really should use a snubber if anything more than a lunch stop in calm weather. Personally I will use a bridle that brings the ends up to the mooring cleats not the wimpy anchor cleat provided on my 44DA.

My plan is to do a hybrid of 100' chain and rest rode. Most of my anchorage spots are less than 20' so I can get 5:1 scope using all chain, if I go deeper or have a storm come up I have plenty of rode to extend to 7 or 8:1 scope. That will get me mostly in all chain situations with half the weight.
 
Why don't just reverse the chain... You said the first 50' is rusted, how the last 50'? I have never used all my rode... I have 100' of chain and bought from a chain manufacturer out of Ohio. It was 5/16" for a progress one... It was 1/3 the cost of WM...
 
I just replaced mine with 150' of all chain 5/16 G4 and I love it. Boat never even thinks about moving while on the hook.
 
Thank you for the link, looks like it's either 150' or 275' unless I'm missing something. Doesn't look to be 1/3 the cost though. I believe I need the Windlass 5/16" G4/G40. Although it appears it can be called G43 now as well on other sites such as Defender which is even cheaper but shipping is $250.....who new chain could be so complicated.
 
I purchased mine from Ebay. Helps if you can ship to a commercial address. They wanted an extra $80 for residential.
 
I have been told not to use the windlass to hold the boat while at anchor. When you have an all chain rode how do you cleat it off?
 
eweise said:
With one of these.
http://www.rodholderdepot.com/image_manager/attributes/image/image_39/1098084925_4240906028.gif
Click to expand...

This chain stop is the first step, but I would strongly consider a bridle.
1) The bridle attaches to the chain below the waterline and then secures to the port and starboard bow cleats. This, effectively, reduces '5 of depth for my boat as the scope should be calculated from the anchor pulpit to the bottom of the waterway.
2) The bridle is more secure being attached to cleats, than a chain lock with 2-4 through bolts. I have both, but only use the chain lock if making a brief stop.
 
Definitely go all chain. I have 150' of all chain on my boat. Holds like you wouldn't believe, never had an issue and super easy to drop/retrieve from the helm. Painted the chain every 25' so I know how much I've put out. awesome set up
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Forum statistics

Threads
113,191
Messages
1,428,268
Members
61,103
Latest member
RealMarineInc
Back
Top