Moving the shore power

[MaddyDean]

Hi All

First year with this boat and already have something I would like to change. I noticed this while winterizing and cleaning. The shore power is in an inopportune place on the port side.

When I hooked the power up, I had to disconnect the canvas and really reach, and if I went from outside the cockpit and the canvas was on, there was little to hold on to.

I see now that the new Sea Rays have the shore power at the stern.

My question, has any of you moved the shore power and if so, what was involved.

Here is what I think.

1. Identify the wire gauge
2. Buy the proper length of wire(s) to get from the breaker panel to the stern (With extra)
3. Remove the connection from the port side
4. Get a blank cover or something to cover the hole in port side
5. Run the wire to the Breaker box
6. Run wire to the stern

All this seams straight forward but;

7. Where to place it on the stern
8. How should I cut a…dare I say it…a hole at the stern
9. I would probably want to buy a new shore power connection

If anyone has done this; 1.) Was it worth it? 2.) Do you have pics? 3.) What are the answers to 7 and 8? 4.) Am I missing anything?

Thanks

Vince

 

[katricol]

I've thought of this too Vince, but would leave the old connect. on the port. How else would you cover the holes?

 

[MaddyDean]

I've thought of this too Vince, but would leave the old connect. on the port. How else would you cover the holes?

I was thinking of a square plastic plate or decretive square that reads SR or 280 or something. If i leave the old Connect, even though there is a flap to cover the hole there is still a hole for water to get in so I would like to replace it with something a little more watertight.

I will let you know if/when i do it and how it goes.

 

[Henry Boyd]

On the 02 280, the shore power plug and a 35 amp breaker switch is installed inside the transom locker. There is a starboard bulkhead on the port side of the inside of the locker. It is the plastic Marinco 'weatherproof' job with a hinged cover.

The wiring according to the Sea Ray wiring diagram is 10/3 boat cable. The white and black lines are both switched at the breaker switch (as if it were a 220 1 phase circuit). The green line is connected to the Galvanic isolator before being connected to the AC grounding buss. I believe the Galvanic Isolator is actually located close to the shore power plug only because I have never seen it while poking around the power distribution panel.

As for the hole left by removing the old plug, a good fiberglass guy could fix that without a problem.

Henry

 

[tdschafer]

On my boat the galvanic isolators are located behind the microwave. I found them while running the wires for my satellite last summer.:smt101

 

[electricaldoctor]

Hi All

First year with this boat and already have something I would like to change. I noticed this while winterizing and cleaning. The shore power is in an inopportune place on the port side.

When I hooked the power up, I had to disconnect the canvas and really reach, and if I went from outside the cockpit and the canvas was on, there was little to hold on to.

I see now that the new Sea Rays have the shore power at the stern.

My question, has any of you moved the shore power and if so, what was involved.

Here is what I think.

1. Identify the wire gauge
2. Buy the proper length of wire(s) to get from the breaker panel to the stern (With extra)
3. Remove the connection from the port side
4. Get a blank cover or something to cover the hole in port side
5. Run the wire to the Breaker box
6. Run wire to the stern

All this seams straight forward but;

7. Where to place it on the stern
8. How should I cut a…dare I say it…a hole at the stern
9. I would probably want to buy a new shore power connection

If anyone has done this; 1.) Was it worth it? 2.) Do you have pics? 3.) What are the answers to 7 and 8? 4.) Am I missing anything?

Thanks

Vince

You could also run your new wire from the existing shore power location. That would solve the hole problem and also give you some added flexibility when docking at different marinas when on a trip away from home port.

~Ken

 

[MaddyDean]

Interesting idea Ken; I have to look at the lugs to see if it is wide enough to accept two-whites, two-blacks and two-greens.

 

[doozie]

Interesting idea Ken; I have to look at the lugs to see if it is wide enough to accept two-whites, two-blacks and two-greens.

I would not do that without a selector swith, you would then have the blades in the unused receptacle hot, not a good idea. Bob

 

[Happy Hour IV]

As Doozie said, also I suspect there is a requirement for the maximum distance you are allowed to have unprotected (without circuit breaker) wires in the boat. You may want to consider moving or adding a main circuit breaker near the new location.

 

[Redhook98]

I think at this point it may just be easier to buy a different boat.. ;-)

On a serious note, just leave the old plug in place. It wasn't letting water in before, so it won't now when the wires are disconnected. Right?

Install the new one at the stern in the dunnage box and add a breaker.

 

[Henry Boyd]

I think at this point it may just be easier to buy a different boat.. ;-)

On a serious note, just leave the old plug in place. It wasn't letting water in before, so it won't now when the wires are disconnected. Right?

Install the new one at the stern in the dunnage box and add a breaker.

+1 - I would also add a galvanic isolator at the same time. On the 02 280, the GI is located right by the shore power switch and transom breaker. This then allows you to run the cable any way you want and lets you tie into the AC ground circuit at any place in the boat. Otherwise you have to run the cable to the existing GI.

Henry

 

[electricaldoctor]

I would not do that without a selector swith, you would then have the blades in the unused receptacle hot, not a good idea. Bob

Good point doozie ... I should have thought that out a little better. I forgot about the exposed male blades under the cover.

12,388 heads are better than one. :lol:

 

[MaddyDean]

<Maybe I am still too new to this site to say this so I write this so you know it is in jest>

What are you guys trying to do? kill me? Maybe I should have posted this on the Bayliner site:grin:

 

[Henry Boyd]

<Maybe I am still too new to this site to say this so I write this so you know it is in jest>

What are you guys trying to do? kill me? Maybe I should have posted this on the Bayliner site:grin:

Nope, If we wanted to do that we would have suggested that you wire both plugs up, and then use two shore power cords at the same time.

 

[Redhook98]

Nope, If we wanted to do that we would have suggested that you wire both plugs up, and then use two shore power cords at the same time.

Ummmm, been there, done that....... By mistake of course.... The 1963 36-ft Chris Craft Roamer (Steel hull) I restored had 2 power connects. Since it was so big, I figured I needed 2 power lines coming in. BIG mistake! Lol! Never saw a breaker blow that fast! Luckily it didn't hurt anything...... And most importantly, no one on the dock saw me do it! :grin:

 

[katricol]

you guys crack me up !! lol

 

[370Dancer]

Don't forget that wire has resistance, and the gauge in there now was not engineered for a longer run. Be safe, and go up a gauge or two. If it's 12 now, consider 10 ga.

 

[electricaldoctor]

Don't forget that wire has resistance, and the gauge in there now was not engineered for a longer run. Be safe, and go up a gauge or two. If it's 12 now, consider 10 ga.

While your point is well taken about resistance & distance, please keep in mind that A.C. voltage drop is nowhere near as dramatic as it is with your 12 volt D.C. boat current.

Without getting too scientific and performing an actual voltage drop calculation, you can use #10 (depending on the insulation type) for 30 Amps and not worry about voltage drop on your boat's shore power supply.

A general rule of thumb would be to increase the wire one size after 100'.

~Ken

 

[Henry Boyd]

On a serious note, 10/3 boat cable is what the SR wiring diagram calls for.

Henry