Mid-90's 270 Sundancer Thread

There are a few other things I'm having done. It is a new long block from Jasper engine. New Merc exhaust manifolds and risers flappers etc. I'm also having the steering cable replaced since I had a little slop in the wheel. Also a full tune up of the port engine...cap, rotor, wires, plugs. I probably could have shopped around for a cheaper deal but the convenience of having them take it directly from my wet slip and I don't have to trailer it to anyone was worth the extra to me. And they are a Merc dealer so I shouldn't have to worry about any shoddy work. Just wish it was done before the fourth. If all goes well, I should get her back on Friday though.
 
I'm in the procees of changing a failed battery charger in my 1994 270 sundancer and have run into a challenging issue that I hope someone may have already resolved. Sea Ray thru-bolted the ProMariner 20 battery charger to the bulkhead and didn't leave access to the 1/4-20 nuts on the aft cabin (fiinshed) side. I was able to remove the bolts and get the old unit out, but now I need to install the new unit. Has anyone run into this problem and found away around it?
 
I had to replace my charger last year. From what I remember, it was held in by machine screws that were screwed into tapped holes in the bulkhead. I was able to re-use three of the four holes on the new charger and I just used a SS wood screw for the last one. Of course yours may be different.
 
implusive said:
I'm in the procees of changing a failed battery charger in my 1994 270 sundancer and have run into a challenging issue that I hope someone may have already resolved. Sea Ray thru-bolted the ProMariner 20 battery charger to the bulkhead and didn't leave access to the 1/4-20 nuts on the aft cabin (fiinshed) side. I was able to remove the bolts and get the old unit out, but now I need to install the new unit. Has anyone run into this problem and found away around it?
Click to expand...

My replacement was put in with SS screws. They should be fine. MM
 
Hey Guys - I was hoping to get some advice from the 7.4l Bravo II owners here. I have a 98' 270DA, which has a slightly wider beam, but your input would be appreciated.

I posted on the 98' and up 270 Official thread, but most of the guys there have the Bravo III drive.

OKay - so the stock prop on this boat/engine/drive is a 23p x 17.5" prop. With my boat, I noticed that in order to run around 25-27mph I would have to keep the RPM's around 4,000 - not good and too high. If I run at the more efficient and safe range of 34000-36000RPM's I get about 20-21mph (GPS verified).

I finally had a chance to check the prop and it's a 21 pitch prop and I am guessing a 17.5" diameter. As it turns out the PO also had a newly refurbished prop which is ALSO a 21/17.5" I'm inclined to think that the PO had good validation for buying two 21's and ditching the 23.

I did a WOT check and max RPM's is 4600 which got me around 33mph.

The boat quickly get's on plane with the smaller pitch, but I don't like cruising at 20mph. I wonder if the 23 will have a hard time getting the boat on plane. For the most part it's just my wife and I and I am conscious to keep the liquids (fuel/water) at 1/2 tank max.

Can you please chime in about your experience with the 23 pitch prop and if you decided to go down in pitch....or up.

Thanks!!

Mike
 
I'll get you some numbers from my setup this week. Call Power Tech props http://www.ptprop.com/ and give them everything you can about your current prop situation. Tell them serial and model numbers of your current props and any sizing you have as well as loading and rpm. They are excellent to advise you as to what you need or will tell you you are fine with what you have.

MM
 
duckmnn said:
Anybody replace black rubber insert in window frames yet?Evertime I wash windows that black foam crumbles away.Id like to replace,but don't know where to et it.
Click to expand...


Watching this too.

I pulled a leaking window and the black "gasket" was indeed disintegrating. Since it's near the end of the season I opted to use silicone caulk for now - it's working. I plan to pull and rebed the other Taylor Made windows during the winter. I searched quite awhile for a replacement Taylor Made gasket with no luck.
 
deeman said:
Hey Guys - I was hoping to get some advice from the 7.4l Bravo II owners here. I have a 98' 270DA, which has a slightly wider beam, but your input would be appreciated.

I posted on the 98' and up 270 Official thread, but most of the guys there have the Bravo III drive.

OKay - so the stock prop on this boat/engine/drive is a 23p x 17.5" prop. With my boat, I noticed that in order to run around 25-27mph I would have to keep the RPM's around 4,000 - not good and too high. If I run at the more efficient and safe range of 34000-36000RPM's I get about 20-21mph (GPS verified).

I finally had a chance to check the prop and it's a 21 pitch prop and I am guessing a 17.5" diameter. As it turns out the PO also had a newly refurbished prop which is ALSO a 21/17.5" I'm inclined to think that the PO had good validation for buying two 21's and ditching the 23.

I did a WOT check and max RPM's is 4600 which got me around 33mph.

The boat quickly get's on plane with the smaller pitch, but I don't like cruising at 20mph. I wonder if the 23 will have a hard time getting the boat on plane. For the most part it's just my wife and I and I am conscious to keep the liquids (fuel/water) at 1/2 tank max.

Can you please chime in about your experience with the 23 pitch prop and if you decided to go down in pitch....or up.

Thanks!!

Mike
Click to expand...


I am still very curious if anyone running a 23P prop on their 7.4l / Bravo II 270 can comment if it's a suitable prop. Any issues getting on plane with 4 adults? I would be very grateful for any comments.

Mike
 
deeman said:
Watching this too.

I pulled a leaking window and the black "gasket" was indeed disintegrating. Since it's near the end of the season I opted to use silicone caulk for now - it's working. I plan to pull and rebed the other Taylor Made windows during the winter. I searched quite awhile for a replacement Taylor Made gasket with no luck.
Click to expand...

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/nfm_port_lights

Use butyl rubber to rebed the windows. I use it any chance I get. Very easy to work with and very long lasting. See its use in the above reference.

John
 
well, got the new 23p x 17.5" dia. prop and put it on this weekend - wow!!! 25mph at 3500 rpm!!

Had the admiral and two small kiddies on board and had no issue getting on plane. Likely will be a challenge with 4-6 adults, but I'll have the chunky one's go up front till I get on plane :smt001
 
MonacoMike said:
I'll get you some numbers from my setup this week. Call Power Tech props http://www.ptprop.com/ and give them everything you can about your current prop situation. Tell them serial and model numbers of your current props and any sizing you have as well as loading and rpm. They are excellent to advise you as to what you need or will tell you you are fine with what you have.

MM
Click to expand...

Weather killed my RPM tests...
 
I am getting a rust water run stain from my rear port cleat. I ASSUMED everything is stainless on the cleat, but sincerely doubt it. I am thinking that there is a bad seal on the cleat with water getting onto the back and that in all likelyhood the back nut is NOT stainless, thus causing the "rust" stain to run down from the cleat. The screw itself "looks" stainless to me. Also I guess the backing plate could be rusting causing the stain.


I am thinking that I need to pull the cleat, replace the nut and the bolts with new stainless and reseal. Given the location in the rear, I assume I can get to the back of the cleat in the engine compartment. I also assume that if I just "unscrew" the screws from the top that the backing and nut will fall off somewhere in a spot where I will curse a lot and wish I never unscrewed the bolts to see what was wrong.

Your thoughts would be appreciated as I assume I am not the first person with this problem.
 
N369RM said:
I am getting a rust water run stain from my rear port cleat. I ASSUMED everything is stainless on the cleat, but sincerely doubt it. I am thinking that there is a bad seal on the cleat with water getting onto the back and that in all likelyhood the back nut is NOT stainless, thus causing the "rust" stain to run down from the cleat. The screw itself "looks" stainless to me. Also I guess the backing plate could be rusting causing the stain.


I am thinking that I need to pull the cleat, replace the nut and the bolts with new stainless and reseal. Given the location in the rear, I assume I can get to the back of the cleat in the engine compartment. I also assume that if I just "unscrew" the screws from the top that the backing and nut will fall off somewhere in a spot where I will curse a lot and wish I never unscrewed the bolts to see what was wrong.

Your thoughts would be appreciated as I assume I am not the first person with this problem.
Click to expand...

It would be unbelievable if SR did not use stainless. I have not had this issue. Might ask this question in the general forum since it could be answered by others that may not look at the 270 specific forum. MM
 
In my boat it’s so you can open the engine hatch. I pull the legs out of the support holes and the front side of the bench drops to the floor allowing me to open the engine hatch.
 
makes sense. thanks.
Now...When the boat is left at a slip for 2 weeks, is it proper to leave shore power connected? Leave battery switch to BOTH, or OFF?
 
The way I do it is to plug in shore power and leave it plugged in. I turn the batt switch OFF and plug in, then switch to BOTH. Not sure if it's right, but it seems to work for me.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Forum statistics

Threads
113,223
Messages
1,428,889
Members
61,116
Latest member
Gardnersf
Back
Top