Merc 8.1 Mag. No juice yellow/red starter solenoid wire

[Tail Chaser 661]

Ignition switch has juice, power down to 10pin engine harness.
The 4 fuses on engine are good. swapped the 4 relays around.
Fuel pump has power, and engine will start when jumping off the starter/solenoid.

The yellow/red wire from the engines 10P to the starter solenoid is not getting power. Got power to the 50amp breaker. it is not tripped.
Ive looked everywhere, this engine does not have a slave solenoid either.:huh:


I'm stumped. :smt100

 

[techmitch]

Is this a crank/no start or a no crank/no start?

I'm thinking no crank/no start, if so i would be looking at the neutral safety switch.

 

[Jimmy Buoy]

Or a bad ground connection on the engine block.

 

[Tail Chaser 661]

No crank/no start condition. I bypassed the neutral safety switch. Everything else electrical on the boat works. Jumped the red/purple#6 and red/yellow#7 on the engine harness. Thats the main power and the neutral safety/ignition wire that goes to the starter.
I have two battery ground cables going to the engine.
I will check condition of the engine wiring harness ground, and clean it. The test light did shine bright red/yellow ignition wire to the ground bus bar behind dash.

 

[Fun Times]

http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=167035

 

[Tail Chaser 661]

http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=167035

Thanks a bunch. I had looked at the post before. Very good info. Was kind of bummed when I was not able to view pics. Guess I have to join there site to view pics.

I dont have a slave solenoid. (like Volvo) Using a test light for checking my battery is almost useless.
Fuel relay clicks, do not know if Starter is tied into that relay. Test light off the ignition switch is not as bright as testing off the engine's elec buss bar and Aux battery fuse panel.

Buying a new ignition switch today. Then probably a big G31 starting battery if that does not work.
Then its time to unwrap the engine elec wiring harness Argh!... :-(

 

[Fun Times]

It's free to join up over there with no spam from them so far.:grin: It's a pretty helpful forum just like this one.:smt001

Thanks a bunch. I had looked at the post before. Very good info. Was kind of bummed when I was not able to view pics. Guess I have to join there site to view pics.

I dont have a slave solenoid. (like Volvo) Using a test light for checking my battery is almost useless.
Fuel relay clicks, do not know if Starter is tied into that relay. Test light off the ignition switch is not as bright as testing off the engine's elec buss bar and Aux battery fuse panel.

Buying a new ignition switch today. Then probably a big G31 starting battery if that does not work.
Then its time to unwrap the engine elec wiring harness Argh!... :-(

Looks like your on the right track with a new ignition switch. Have you taken your test light to the yellow/red wire at the back side of the ignition key switch and turned the key to see if you have 12v power there? That's where it starts, then to the neutral safety switch inside the controller, Then the yellow/red wires should be hooked up with either butt connectors or there may be a wire connector just behind the shifter controller unit area. You might be losing power at the connector behind the shifter. Then it will go to the 10 pin connector. Have you wiggled the heck out of the 10 pin connector with someone holding the key over yet? Pretty common to have a bad connection at the 10 pin plug area.

Also have you wiggled the heck out of the shifter control handle with the key held to start?

The key word is wiggle all the wires you can find including the key switch itself.:thumbsup:

Also try to see how much (12V) power you have at the red wire at key switch.

Good luck.

 

[Tail Chaser 661]

It's free to join up over there with no spam from them so far.:grin: It's a pretty helpful forum just like this one.:smt001


Looks like your on the right track with a new ignition switch. Have you taken your test light to the yellow/red wire at the back side of the ignition key switch and turned the key to see if you have 12v power there? That's where it starts, then to the neutral safety switch inside the controller, Then the yellow/red wires should be hooked up with either butt connectors or there may be a wire connector just behind the shifter controller unit area. You might be losing power at the connector behind the shifter. Then it will go to the 10 pin connector. Have you wiggled the heck out of the 10 pin connector with someone holding the key over yet? Pretty common to have a bad connection at the 10 pin plug area.

Also have you wiggled the heck out of the shifter control handle with the key held to start?

The key word is wiggle all the wires you can find including the key switch itself.:thumbsup:

Also try to see how much (12V) power you have at the red wire at key switch.

Good luck.

No luck, New ignition switch. 13.8 volts Power at ignition switch, same through neutral safety switch.(red/yellow wire)
Starter Relay not energizing even after switching them around. The other 3 relays click
Have 13.8v Red/yellow wire at the 10P and the starter relay with the key in start position.

Looking like a bad relay ground.
Red hot #30 input good when battery selector turned on.
12V source input #85 (hot) with key turned to start when the Relay connector ground #86 is grounded to the engine.
#85 source 12v input Key start (not hot) when jumping 12v input to the Relay#86 ground on the connecter plug.
Engine will crank jumping the Red#30 input to the Red/Yellow# 87 output wire relay connector that goes to the starter.
No ground, blk/blue relay wire #86 is the issue.