Leverage Compound & Lev Polish Trial

Hampton

Air Defense Dept
TECHNICAL Contributor
Nov 26, 2006
7,628
Panama City, Fl
Boat Info
2008 44 Sedan Bridge
Engines
Cummins QSC-500's
Straight Drives
I received a box of Leverage products earlier this week. They were just in time for Spring touch up on the top 1/2 of the boat.

I am going to be brutally honest with my assessment (not necessarily bad, just honest).

Leverage Oxidation Remover "The Heavy Cut Compound":
Dark tan colored - no hiding splatter or missed spots.
Very thin liquid - I swear I wasted at least 1/2 trying to get it to the surface. My initial impression was that it was difficult to work with because it would run everywhere.

I was working on the front, top 1/2 of the boat which is white gel coat and diamond non-skid surface. This is the worst part of the boat for oxidation. Most areas had some light oxidation. Just below the windshield it was moderate.

I used a Makita Rotary Buffer with a Wool pad. I tried settings 1 - 4. 4 is too high. The instructions say to apply to the surface - I agree. The least waste was achieved by shaking the bottle, squirting some on the surface (I used a line about 2 - 3 feet long), then spreading it around with the buffing pad manually (not turning buffer on), then starting on setting 1, then 2, then finally 3. The area I worked on is fully of turns, bends, windows, rails, windlass... It's not the big, easy part. It was a bit of work, but not due to the product, just the shape. Other than the initial splatter, it's pretty easy to work with. I don't like the color - it's the color of burned gel coat, so, when you see an area of tan, you don't know if you should buff it or quit buffing it.

EDIT: As always, when done, I had a mess on the non-skid surface. I used a plastic brush to get the dried compound out. It left the non-skid a light-tan color (other products leave their color too). I need to clean and treat the non-skid. The polish is not for non-skid!

After a normal application which took about 2 - 3 hours on the bow of my 340 (in the water), the job was done. It was obvious for the first time since I bought my 340 (used, 2 years old, South Florida) that I was actually looking at the original white gel coat as Sea Ray intended it to be. This may be, in part, due to the fact that this is the third compounding that I have given to this section of the boat. I was never quite satisfied before, but now, I'm sure that I'm looking at white gel and not any oxidation.

So, though the product is a little tough to work with without splattering it everywhere, it does take light to moderate oxidation down to pure gel coat without multiple applications. There is a little dust when done, but much less than with other products. I used 10 oz of the 16 oz bottle to do the front 1/2, top 1/2 of the boat, which is a lot. It's more like doing a wet compounding without grit than a dry, gritty compounding. It's like it's a chemical compounding more than a physical one, but I don't know the chemistry if it is.

Leverage Polish, Cleaner and UV Protectant:
Light blue colored - Not too easy to see on white surface in outdoor lighting
Very thin liquid - same as water
This is the final coat stuff - no wax required

The instructions say to use a soft terry cloth towel. A towel would have used an entire bottle, so I used a paper towel. This is not a buff-on product. It is wipe-on, let dry, then buff off by HAND with a soft towel. I did the entire front of the boat (top 1/2) with 2 paper towels in about 20 minutes. It goes on very easily. The instructions say to shake briefly, then apply. 1/2 way through, while shaking briefly, the straw inside the bottle came loose from the top. Easy fix.

End result: These products left the gel with a perfectly smooth, like new finish without any color variations or texture variations. It looks perfectly smooth. In the pictures below, you'll see the port bow before application (due to lighting), and the reflection of the sunset in the starboard bow (due to lighting). They were identical to start. Note the purity of the bow rail and the island, and the sun in the reflection. I am truly impressed with the products after 1 day. Time will tell about how long the polish lasts.

Summary:
Don't like the color of the compound, but that's just me
Compound goes quickly due to being so thin
Compound gets down to the gel coat with average buffing on a lightly oxidized surface
Polish goes on/off quickly and easlily with little effort
Final result is a very consistent and bright shine which is as good as, if not better than new. (Pictures loading if not already up)

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Before - note chalky white above porthole

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After:

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067.jpg


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070.jpg
 
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John, how would you rate it against other products you've used in the past? I think it was Meguires One step compound you used in the past with good results? The one step compound has worked great for me with about the same amount of oxidation on my topsides as yours.
 
I think I like the Leverage better than Maguir's from the point of light oxidation to a clean surface. I haven't tried the Leverage on heavy oxidation, and may never get the chance (I hope). The Leverage polish is much easier than anything else I've ever used, and the shine is as good as any. Let's see how it lasts.
 
You can take the exit by the Citgo called Duke Street and make your first left, or take th exit for Rt 8 and make your first right , then third right.
 
I have covered the use of the polish in another thread. I agree with you're assessment of the product. The ease of application is second to none. But let us see how well it holds up. CSR member Scott1 is in the middle of some serious oxidation removal of his recent 260 purchase with Leverage products, he turned me on to the product last year. I plan to finish the bottle this weekend on a spring reapplication.

BTW Hamptom can you turn me on to a good chartered dolphin tour out of St Andrews bay? I am going to be in Destin in May for vacation. (I figured Panama City would be crowded with college kids) and as I remember, Panama City has better Bottle Nosed Dolphin site seeing. I also want to do the Shell Island thing. My wife has never been so we are going to make a day trip out of it from Destin. Thanks
 
John....did you apply the polish to your non-skid are on the bow?

Also noticed in your pic you had the metal serum...have you tried it?
 
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what kind of person ties up the electrical cord like that... I just let mine drape in the water...
 
John....did you apply the polish to your non-skid are on the bow?

Also noticed in your pic you had the metal serum...have you tried it?

I haven't tried the metal serum, but I will. I was showing a buddy at the dock the Leverage Polish, and there were some superficial rust stains on the bow rail of the boat. So, I used the Polish and a paper towel to see what would happen. The rust stains came off after a couple of wipes. So, I would imagine the stuff actually intended for it would be great.

I did not use the polish on the non-skid. They warn against it and it appears that the polish is all about slipperiness, so, I didn't want to go there.
 
:grin::smt043
what kind of person ties up the electrical cord like that... I just let mine drape in the water...

Didn't we already cover this in a previous thread? :smt024:smt021:grin::smt043
 
I did not use the polish on the non-skid. They warn against it and it appears that the polish is all about slipperiness, so, I didn't want to go there.

Will you apply any sort of UV protection the the non-skid area?
 
Will you apply any sort of UV protection the the non-skid area?

Yes. Right now, I need to get the black dots off of the non-skid. I think it may be mold or something like that. It doesn't come off with a good washing and brushing. I'm going to try a mold-mildew cleaner next. After that, I'll apply Meguir's Flagship Premium Wax, like last fall. It provides for a good shine and protection, and isn't too slipery. I guess there aren't any good polymers that don't make things slippery. It would be like finding an abrasive oil.

I don't think I've ever completely cleaned the non-skid since I bought the boat. You can't see it from the cockpit, or even from standing on the bow unless you're looking for imperfections, but if you're sitting down, it looks pretty bad. I think I had the same problem with my 250. Once I'm done, I'll have to hit the bow with the Polish again. Whatever I get to clean the non-skid will likely degrade the polish on the gel.
 
Thank You for the honest feedback John! Sometimes others just think I'm trying to sell my product until the customers start leaving their feedback. I do my best to manufacture easy to use, quality products that have been tested and proven over the years. Thanks again and please let me know if you need anything.

I've posted a few project pictures of boats we've buffed in the 'How I use Leverage' thread.
http://clubsearay.com/forum/showthread.php?t=15497
 
John, the Magic Eraser works good on the non-skid to get the black spots out.
 

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