Kohler 5E Generator Question

eweise

Active Member
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Aug 23, 2013
530
Jacksonville, FL
Boat Info
2005 Sea Ray 280 Sundancer
Engines
Twin 4.3L 220 HP, Alpha 1 Drives, 5E Genny, AC
I have a Kohler 5E generator that this weekends overnight trip I experienced that when it seemed to not have a large load the rpms would go up and down repeatedly until a larger load made it run smooth again. Any ideas or suggestions to look for. Thanks. kohler generator.jpg
 
Might be a sticking choke, carb needs to be cleaned, or spark plugs need to be changed. Changing plugs on these gennys regularly is a good idea.
 
Had the generator serviced plugs, oil change, coolant change, zinc about 3 months ago. Sounds like it is hunting for a speed due to a low load. ???
 
Sounds like a sticky governor. Mine once in a while upon first start will stick on lower RPM regardless of load. If i push the governor arm/wire that opens up the butterfly valve to the carb it then runs fine. I have never let the load drop off again to see what happens but it may hunt around for the correct RPM as yours is doing. Please let us know what you find.
 
Ive found that the plugs sometimes dont last long on these generators. Those kohler/kawasaki engines will foul champion brand plugs quickly. Id try a new set of NGK (BPR4ES?) first before I did much else. I just changed my plugs for a similar fault. Good luck.
 
I'm watching this one too because I'm still looking for the answer after filling the f/w separator with carb cleaner twice, changing the inline small fuel filter, and replacing the plugs. I still have hunting when under load. It does start fine after adjusting the choke. I just ordered a carb rebuild kit today so that'll be next.

Dale
 
Sounds like several options to start looking at. I will check the linkage for the choke and replace the plugs again. Hope this is a simple repair. Thanks for the suggestions.
 
Here's my update from today....

I removed the carb and completely tore it apart, removed all o-rings, gaskets, anti-dieseling valve, removed jets, removed the "adapter" that connects the rigid fuel line to the carb. etc. I shot carb cleaner through every passage I could find multiple times and ran fine wire through the very tiny ports that were in the throttle butterfly side of the carb intake (this faces the mainfold) - I have no idea what they were, but they looked clogged. There's 3 of them. MORE cleaner through everything. I noticed varnish in the port that fed the bowl and got that clean. I had a rebuild kit and replaced the float needle valve aong with various o-rings, brass bushings, and the nylon bushings the choke butterfly pivots in (came with the kit). Some of the gaskets didn't match but that wasn't a big deal since the old ones were in good shape so I reused them.

Put everything back together using Perfect Seal on the gaskets, threads, etc.

The verdict?????



I hit the starter and within about 7 seconds of cranking it fired right up! The REAL verdict???????

The hunting under load IS FINALLY GONE! I switched on applicance by appliance and would hear the gen respond to the load (brief bog then back up to speed) and the RPMS would settle out within a second of getting the load under control.

SO, hopefully this one is behind me. I can't stress enough to REALLY REALLY CLEAN things out if you tear it apart. Also REALLY use them with load.
 
When I had this problem I changed out the choke assembly and all has been well since.
 
I plan on looking into this tomorrow. Sounds like I may need a carb cleaning or maybe replacement and new choke assembly.
 
I didn't replace the choke "puck". All I did was replace the nylon pivots that the choke butterfly sits in. There's one in the bottom and one in the top of the intake of the carb. The one in the top has a felt gasket (for lack of a better term) and I was able to read 12v across the terminals that the choke gets the power for the heater element from so I'm assuming that as normal. After adjusting the "puck" a few weeks back was able to get a good consistent cold start and have watched the the butterfly arm flip to open after it warms up. All my choke 'guts' are original post rebuild.
 

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