in water engine flush?

[estebanj]

Morpheus: I believe SuperFlush (or FlushPro) will flush the exhaust part of the outdrive. The only part that will remain unflushed will be the inlet in the outdrive and the hose leading to the water pump. I can't say for sure, but I think this is for the most part OK.

I wonder if someone can post a technical diagram of the inlet part of the outdrive leading to the hose. Will salt water stay there?

What I do now after the FlushPro is spray fresh water into the inlet holes of the outdrive.

Esteban

 

[Morpheus]

Morpheus: I believe SuperFlush (or FlushPro) will flush the exhaust part of the outdrive. The only part that will remain unflushed will be the inlet in the outdrive and the hose leading to the water pump. I can't say for sure, but I think this is for the most part OK.

I wonder if someone can post a technical diagram of the inlet part of the outdrive leading to the hose. Will salt water stay there?

What I do now after the FlushPro is spray fresh water into the inlet holes of the outdrive.

Esteban

Yes it does flush the exhaust part, I was more concerned about the water pickup on the outdrive and the hose(s) from it to the impeller. I either read or someone told me that if that is not flushed the hose will deteriate from the salt and collapse which would cause the impeller to work harder or not be able to suck water in meaning no water to an engine meaning engine overheating.

The one manual value flush posted here appeared as if it could not only flush the engine but also be reversed so that you could send water down the water pickup hose and out the water pickups in the outdrive basically flushing it.

Now my next question/idea is a combination of the Perko Flush pro and the Brass flush system.

Install the brass manual flush system, and instead of a hose direct to it connect the hose to a Perko Flush pro, and then to the system. Then you have that flapper in place so you could turn the water on with the correct valves open and then start the engine. The water would go through the perko flush pro which you could also use a salt preventative with it as well. Then when done flushing the engine turn it off, and reverse those flush valuves and without the perko attached just flush the outdrive with fresh water using the water pressure to clean it out. Maybe even have a valve on the hose to adjust pressure so that you can turn the pressure all the way up at the house and then limit it while your at the boat.

I think there are lots of ideas and products here that can get the job done it's just a matter of the correct combination.

The superflush although it looks more thorough also looks more complicated to install as you are installing a hose at every drain point on the engine.

 

[asimpkinsjr]

Yes it does flush the exhaust part, I was more concerned about the water pickup on the outdrive and the hose(s) from it to the impeller. I either read or someone told me that if that is not flushed the hose will deteriate from the salt and collapse which would cause the impeller to work harder or not be able to suck water in meaning no water to an engine meaning engine overheating.

The one manual value flush posted here appeared as if it could not only flush the engine but also be reversed so that you could send water down the water pickup hose and out the water pickups in the outdrive basically flushing it.

Now my next question/idea is a combination of the Perko Flush pro and the Brass flush system.

Install the brass manual flush system, and instead of a hose direct to it connect the hose to a Perko Flush pro, and then to the system. Then you have that flapper in place so you could turn the water on with the correct valves open and then start the engine. The water would go through the perko flush pro which you could also use a salt preventative with it as well. Then when done flushing the engine turn it off, and reverse those flush valuves and without the perko attached just flush the outdrive with fresh water using the water pressure to clean it out. Maybe even have a valve on the hose to adjust pressure so that you can turn the pressure all the way up at the house and then limit it while your at the boat.

I think there are lots of ideas and products here that can get the job done it's just a matter of the correct combination.

The superflush although it looks more thorough also looks more complicated to install as you are installing a hose at every drain point on the engine.

The issue you may have with you idea of combining is not enough hose, I built the brass assembly and had the yard put it in/helped and it was not only a tight fit, we even had to move the battery mounts, but the length and bend radii of hoses is a consideration...u have room for one, prob not for 2 devices, at least of the mag 350 in the 260DA

 

[Morpheus]

I was not thinking of putting both devices in line, as your correct you would run out of hose.

I was going to connect/disconnect the Perko Flush pro or actually could just use the item that comes with Saltaway to administer the saltaway product via the brass Quick Flush System.

 

[SAshton]

anyone have photos of the brass valve installed on there engine? I am leary of cutting that stiff intake hose.

 

[caymancanuck]

Ok, now I am completely confused. I have a 496 HO with the BIII which is closed cooling, so do I need to flush the drive? The boat stays moored in salt water.

 

[estebanj]

To me a bigger worry than flusing the outdrive is leaving the outdrive in salt water all the time, specially a B3. Make sure your mercathode is working as it should, consider adding the supplemental mercathode system (pucks) with the high output controller, and make sure all your anodes are in good shape, including the one on the outdrive.

Since you have FWC (closed cooling), you may still want to flush the system b/c remember the risers and elbows are still RWC. Your manifolds may also be RWC depending on what type of FWC system you have. Some do the block and manifolds. Others do the block only.

Esteban