If I do the 5 gal bucket with muffs method...

[alwhite00]

If I do the 5 gal bucket with muffs method where do i look for the water to come out pink with antifreeze? The exhaust? - It does not seem as if all that much comes out of there while running on the muffs.

It's a 260/Alpha 1 MerCruiser - I was going to remove the thermostat before firing it up, Just want to make sure the system is full.

Thanks

LK

 

[MAKC]

Run your engine up to operating temperature before you put antifreeze in your engine. Then there's no need to remove the thermostat. Once its up to temp, pull the drain plugs on the engine and let the water drain out. Put the drain plugs back in and use the 5 gallon bucket with pink. Start the engine with the ear-muffs pulling fluid from the 5 gallon bucket and shut the engine down once the pink starts coming through the outdrive. That'll make sure all the water is out. Hope this helps.

Mike

 

[douglee25]

Mike's way is perfectly acceptable, but personally I'd take the extra 5 minutes and remove the thermostat. This way there is no question whether or not the engine is up to operating temperature and you will be sure the antifreeze has made it through all the necessary portions of your engine. The thermostat can be reused in the spring. Just use a new gasket at that point. Reuse the old one for winterizing even if it doesn't survive when pulling the water neck off.

Doug

 

[rcknecht]

I do it Mike's way. I run the hose on the with fresh water untill the engine warms up, then drain the manifolds. One is helps clean out the salt, it opens the thermostat, and helps when fogging the engine because the engine does not stall easily.. Also it warms up the oil to make it easier to change...

 

[alwhite00]

So will the pink come out of the exhaust? (center of the prop) I am removing the thermostat just to make sure it is open as they close up pretty fast when the engine is shut off.

thanks for the input.

LK

 

[douglee25]

Yes, it will come out the exhaust. If it doesn't, then you didn't add enough antifreeze for it to exit the system.

Doug

 

[Presentation]

So will the pink come out of the exhaust? (center of the prop)

Yes

I am removing the thermostat just to make sure it is open as they close up pretty fast when the engine is shut off.

Who told you that?

Next time you are installing a new thermostat, try taking the old one and play around with it on the kitchen stove. They stay open pretty long.

 

[douglee25]

Time out.

If you are going to go through the hassle of removing the thermostat, do yourself a favor. Drain your engine by removing the plugs, then just pour the anti-freeze in via the thermostat housing.

I'm sorry, but to remove the thermostat to then run the engine using the pail method is just dumb, when you can just pour the stuff in at that point. By doing so, you have no issues with making sure the anti-freeze fills the block, or is diluted.

You could do that except the OP told us he had an Alpha 1 which has the water pump in the drive. If he does as you suggested, he stands to ruin the water pump and housing with any residual water left. I stand by my statement.

Yes



Who told you that?

Next time you are installing a new thermostat, try taking the old one and play around with it on the kitchen stove. They stay open pretty long.

I told him that. It's extra insurance to avoid a cracked block, etc. Just because you run the engine for say 10 minutes doesn't mean the thermostat is open. There is no way to verify. Just as a thermostat can stick open, it too can stick closed. It takes 5 minutes to remove the thermostat. Do it to avoid any potential issue.

Doug

 

[douglee25]

I'm glad you're not my mechanic.

Doug

 

[douglee25]

Why take a chance for 5 minutes of 'extra' work Scott?

What if the intake hose is higher in elevation than the water neck? It's possible right? And if the drain point is lower, yes, your method would work. I personally would not take a chance. It's not about being right or wrong, it's about doing your due dilligence to avoid any potential issues.

Doug

 

[Presentation]

....I told him that. It's extra insurance to avoid a cracked block, etc. Just because you run the engine for say 10 minutes doesn't mean the thermostat is open. There is no way to verify. Just as a thermostat can stick open, it too can stick closed. It takes 5 minutes to remove the thermostat. Do it to avoid any potential issue.

Doug

Doug – I’m not saying to not take the extra precautions if he (or you) wish to do so. The extra steps will not harm, they are somewhat like wearing belts and suspenders at the same time. So go for it, take the extra time if you wish.

My post was about how fast a thermostat closes. I’ve played with them and I was surprised that once open how long they stay open.

 

[alwhite00]

Well, Here is my delima - I drained the manifolds and the block, I took the hoses off at the thermostat and dumped antifreeze in them, All went well but the port side that goes to the pump did not come out the block on the port side, Went to the pump - I dumped in a gallon and it didn't come out (that I could see) I just figured I would do the 5 gallon pail method, I already have most of the water out of the system but that pump hose has me scared. It is not unsusal to get -20 here in the winter so I want to make sure I get antifreeze EVERYWHERE.
I just have a feeling that even if the thermostat was open it just seems that as soon as the cool antifreeze hit it, it would close up. I already have everything drained and antifreeze dumped in there so I am thinking that the bucket method would just be a little more insurance. I got it for 2 bucks a gallon at Ace so it didn't cost me much.

Thanks for all of the input.

LK

 

[douglee25]

Scott - I drain the block and manifolds BEFORE I would use the bucket so there is no dillution. I'm out.

Doug

 

[alwhite00]

How much anti-freeze did you use? It takes about 3 to 4 gallons to fill the block. I always use the -100 here, although I do know people who use -50 and are fine....I'd just rather sleep better at night.

If you are in S. Michigan, I might be able to lend a hand if you need it.

Thanks for the offer but I am in the "thumb" - i'll get it, Just like to get input before I jump into it too far.

LK

 

[MonacoMike]

For as little as I pay to have my Alpha1 winterized by my regular shop I sleep well knowing I have someone to blame if all is not well come spring. When I looked into the cost of equipment and supplies, not to mention time this made a lot of sense and cents.

I am MM and I approve this message.

Oops this was not a political ad.

I stand by my comments.

MM

 

[MAKC]

The method i posted earlier works perfectly every time. You can certainly do MORE work for the same result, but my time is valuable too. The reason i said use the muffs with antifreeze is because thats exactly how your system works. It pulls fluid from your outdrive UP into your engine and then exhausts through the outdrive. I guess you could take a chance that pouring antifreeze down into the block makes it into the outdrive and purges the water down there, or you can do it the way your system works normally and be sure. Heat the engine, purge the water, start it up with antifreeze in the bucket and 5-6 gallons later, you KNOW theres no water left. This site is full of great tips and tricks designed to make things like this easier and less costly. Here's one of them.

 

[wish2fish]

correct me if I'm wrong

The thermostat keeps water circulating inside the engine until it gets up to temperature. Once it reaches that temperature, the thermostat will open. It not like it closes immediately if the engine is shut down because the engine will hold its heat for a while. When you introduce the antifreeze the thermostat should still be open as the engine heats up the antifreeze to keep the temperature up and the thermostat open. I hold my hand on the exhausting antifreeze and if it is hot (warm) I know it when through the engine.

 

[Daddubo]

Don't forget if the T-Stat closes the A/F is bypassing to the exhaust and out.

Are you fogging at the same time?

What I do is put Stabil in the gas on the last run then at home heat it up change the oil & filter start it back up turn the fuel off & fog it with ATF until it runs out of gas then drain the block if water does not come poke it with a wire to make sure it is open. I pull the hoses off the oil coolers, water heater and the bottom of engine water pump. Then I put it back together pull the T-Stat and put around 5gal 50/50 mix of A/F then pull the hose from the out drive and pour A/F in it. It takes longer but it also puts you all over the E/R and kind of forces you to look at everything and helps spot possible problems. In the spring I drain all the A/F in to the bilge and catch in a bucket for reuse in the fall. I know every one wants to be green but the pink stuff (Propylene Glycol) is for Potable water systems while it will work it provides no protection for your engine against rust where regular A/F ( Ethylene Glycol ) does.
When I am putting her to bed for the winter it usually takes me about a week, off and on with winterizing the engine and potable water system, talking every thing out of the cabin and framing and tarping but when it is next to the house time isn’t a problem but I can see where if some one has an hour or two to get to the marina time is a concern.
http://www.peakantifreeze.com/

 

[KC WV]

I've talked to some shops and found out how many blocks they've seen cracked because someone bought the foolproof rookie kit from Overton's or west marine or used a bucket and hose. I've tried it, and after testing some samples afterwards, wasn't impressed and redone it the right way. It's not that much more work to have the piece of mind when the mercury doesn't get above 25 for two months. Both methods require the raw water to be drained, which is the hardest part. I'm not taking the chance of adding a black mercruiser 350 cubic inch anchor to the list of unwanted items in my bilge. But it's your call....:huh:

 

[toddh]

I've done the bucket method for 10 years and have never had a problem. Don't see how you could go wrong putting 5 gallons of antifreeze in a motor this way.