How can I separate this?

Four Suns said:
Ha!

Even boats that have a "solid hull" have cored transoms and decks. Even the "little" ones.
Click to expand...

You mean like my little 410? Thanks for the advice. I will contact Mr. Floyd again and have him elaborate. If I have a cored hull and water inside I would be pissed!
 
BTW, I received this email from Floyd as I expected. I think sometimes I am the only fool working part of this week!

I will be out of the office starting 12/16/2011 and will not return until 01/03/2012.

Have a safe and happy Holiday Season,
Merry Christmas !
 
Hey Ken... I worked 2 days this week... four day weekend now though...
 
I worked 3 and it is sandwiched by (2) 4-day weekends! Saturday is our anniversary and I got the Admiral something nice this year. She will never see it coming!
 
Ken congrats on the anniversary.... hope you have a wonderful weekend...
 
I received an email from Sea Ray this morning and his statement is shown below. It seems that I was correct in stating that my transom is not cored.

Hi Ken, the bottom, sides and transom of your 410DA contain no balsa core. After the hull is sprayed up and laid up there is a 3/4" transom board that is glassed to the inside of the hull to secure components and hardware to. This is not hull coring but maybe that's what some others are talking about.

Thank you,

Floyd Goddard
Sea Ray / Meridian
321-449-8628
321-449-8632 fax
 
UW Light Damage.jpg


Here is what happens when removing UW lights when 4200 is used.
 
HUMPH said:
I received an email from Sea Ray this morning and his statement is shown below. It seems that I was correct in stating that my transom is not cored.

Hi Ken, the bottom, sides and transom of your 410DA contain no balsa core. After the hull is sprayed up and laid up there is a 3/4" transom board that is glassed to the inside of the hull to secure components and hardware to. This is not hull coring but maybe that's what some others are talking about.

Thank you,

Floyd Goddard
Sea Ray / Meridian
321-449-8628
321-449-8632 fax
Click to expand...

Good grief... talk about Sea Ray mixing stuff up. Who said to them anything about balsa? So there is a piece of plywood sandwiched in your transom but it's not "coring" because it's not balsa... Stupid me says that if you have ANY MATERIAL stuck in it, it's "coring". This is like Bill Clinton saying he didn't have sexual relations with that woman... and your transom has no coring... it has a "transom board glassed inside of it" instead of coring.

So to stick with this dork's reply, I'll say you probably want to make sure your "glassed in transom board" is not compromised and holding moisture.

Wait.. wait... let me put my engineer hat on. Why did they put the "transom board" inside the transom? Oh wait! It's not really "inside." It's "glassed in" and not "inside." And if it is "OK to get wet", why did they glass it in instead of mounting it on the surface like all the other bulkheads on my boat? Ask the guy if it's "OK" for the "transom board that is glassed inside" to get wet and hold moisture....

The person with the two-year marketing degree that came up with this "messaging" for Sea Ray support should be canned and protesting on wall street instead.
 
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Wait! I got it! I bet the person who came up with the "anti-core messaging" worked for FORD back in the 70's!! The Pinto, which was notorious for having the gas tank blow up if rear-ended, was fixed by telling the world: The Pinto no longer has a gas tank. It has a fuel cell.
 
Bridog said:
So first Floyd from SR said "solid glass" and now there's 3/4" transom board inside? Which one is it?
Click to expand...

It's not "inside"... It's "glassed in"

I just realized my 480 DB doesn't have a cored hull. They laid up solid glass in the mold first... then they glassed some balsa on top of it... much different than a cored hull.
 
I wish someone would come out with little monitors that could detect water intrusion.
 
Four Suns said:
It's not "inside"... It's "glassed in"

I just realized my 480 DB doesn't have a cored hull. They laid up solid glass in the mold first... then they glassed some balsa on top of it... much different than a cored hull.
Click to expand...
So it's a solid "glassed in" hull?
 
Bridog said:
So it's a solid "glassed in" hull?
Click to expand...

I have a solid glass hull with some hull boards glassed in for additional support.

See? Sounds much better than "cored hull."

I also have solid glass decks with some deck boards glassed in for additional support.... man... I'm moving to marketing.
 
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I'm sorry Frank, An Ahhh S*** is when you back into a feul dock and do 14,000 in damage, 300.00 I wouldn't even turned my head..and to think I didn't even hit the swim platform....
Back to the post, I'd get new Lights, those lights have been violated with salt water, no telling how far the SAlt has penetrated.
 
I don't think this is marketing spin at all. By boat building nomenclature, the transom plywood isn't really coring since it isn't there for the normal coring use......i.e., to lighten and strengthen structure. However, for us end users out here where "the rubber meets the road", it really doesn't matter what it is called since any water that gets to it causes rot and has to be repaired in just the same manner you would have to fix balsa coring.

The fact the Sea Ray doesn't call the plywood a core doesn't mean you don't have a problem or that you don't need to investigate the hole the previous owner left for you.
 
I think the general consensus is that you need to look at the "filler" material in the transom to see if it is wet. If it is wet, you need to dig out the wet and replace it with a resin type material of your choice before it gets any wetter.

By way of example, the transom hatch on mine started oozing brown liquid around the latch, which is a pretty good sign of water in the glass/coring. When I removed the latch, the balsa coring had not been sealed at the edges and had turned to mush. I had to dig back about three inches to find dry, stiff balsa. Then I had to dry the area thoroughly and then begin the filling process with West system epoxy so that I could reinstall the latch. If it is wet and you let it go, it will not fix itself.
 
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