How can I separate this?

[HUMPH]

I think the general consensus is that you need to look at the "filler" material in the transom to see if it is wet. If it is wet, you need to dig out the wet and replace it with a resin type material of your choice before it gets any wetter.

By way of example, the transom hatch on mine started oozing brown liquid around the latch, which is a pretty good sign of water in the glass/coring. When I removed the latch, the balsa coring had not been sealed at the edges and had turned to mush. I had to dig back about three inches to find dry, stiff balsa. Then I had to dry the area thoroughly and then begin the filling process with West system epoxy so that I could reinstall the latch. If it is wet and you let it go, it will not fix itself.

OK, I get that my transom is not "cored" but it is laminated with wood for added strength without adding too much weight. I now need to have someone with a moisture meter check that are of the transom. The survey a year ago didn't indicate excess moisture there and I had it patched before I used the boat more than a couple of times. Hopefully there are no issues and I can simply wait until I next need to haul the boat to mess with the underwater lit issue. I do appreciate all comments and suggestions...even Gary's!

 

[Alex F]

I didn't see a suggestion on what's the best way for checking if there's a moisture beyond the drilled hole for the UW lights wire. Is it do a visual inspection that most likely won't do the proper justice, using the moisture meter, hammer or something else?

I think that hammer will not always give you a good indication, b/c the change in surface. For example, if the lights are mounted with adhesive behind the whole light this area should have much solid sound, which doesn't necessary mean there's an excessive moisture. Is the moisture meter the cost efficient answer in this case?

I have similar fix to do, but instead of holes for UW lights wires I'd like to redo bolts for hydraulic lift. But, I'd like to ensure that before applying 4200 there's nothing more than I have to address.

BTW, I 100% agree that use of 5200 should be minimum, unless this is something that you never plan to take apart.

 

[Carver370]

OK, I get that my transom is not "cored" but it is laminated with wood for added strength without adding too much weight. I now need to have someone with a moisture meter check that are of the transom. The survey a year ago didn't indicate excess moisture there and I had it patched before I used the boat more than a couple of times. Hopefully there are no issues and I can simply wait until I next need to haul the boat to mess with the underwater lit issue. I do appreciate all comments and suggestions...even Gary's!

If you are seeing a water drip on the inside a moisture meter isn't going to tell you much except that its wet. Plus the moisture meter isn't going to help you much from the inside while the boat is in the water. Every surveyor in our area wont even touch a hull with a moisture meter unless the boat is out of the water. Sure above the water line you can check all day but anything below the surface needs to be checked out of the water.

This would be something serious enough for me to have the boat hauled NOW and checked/fixed before its too late and you have a huge bill ahead of you. I would rather pay a haul out fee than have to re-core or should I say re-fill (are you happy with that lingo Sea Ray?)

I firmly believe there is no correct way to check for moisture below the waterline while the boat is in the water as you will get false readings all day from the presence of water around the boat. I own a moisture meter and have even messed around with this myself. I have a solid fiberglass bottom and when I placed the meter on the bilge floor in my boat it went crazy.... after the boat was hauled I did the same thing and there was no issue.

 

[Turtlesboat]

I don't know if there's a sure fire way to tell unless you drill holes. Hammer will tell you if it's delaminating, but not wet. Moisture meter in this area is pretty unreliable, especially below the water line where there's bottom paint. Any metal on the other side will set off the meter too.

 

[Alex F]

Mike, so what would you do in my case?

I was thinking to take the bolts out, do a visual inspection and if nothing I can see alarming (wet holes) let it sit for a week (to have extra ventilation and drying) and then fill the holes with 4200 and reinstall the new bolts.

 

[Turtlesboat]

If you can do a visual, I would go for that. if it's damp, it's going to take a lot longer than a week for it to dry out. I would also resin the inside of the holes before putting it back together.

The messed up thing about wood is, once it gets wet it starts to rot even after you stop the water source.

 

[HUMPH]

If you are seeing a water drip on the inside a moisture meter isn't going to tell you much except that its wet. Plus the moisture meter isn't going to help you much from the inside while the boat is in the water. Every surveyor in our area wont even touch a hull with a moisture meter unless the boat is out of the water. Sure above the water line you can check all day but anything below the surface needs to be checked out of the water.

This would be something serious enough for me to have the boat hauled NOW and checked/fixed before its too late and you have a huge bill ahead of you. I would rather pay a haul out fee than have to re-core or should I say re-fill (are you happy with that lingo Sea Ray?)

I don't have a drip, the boat used to have a hole that let water in when coming off plane or in following seas maybe. I had the hole properly patched right after I took possession of the boat. I am just concerned if the time when water did come through that hole left any moisture inside.