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So I have to ask....did you not look at the engine?Hi . . . Of course i saw the boat i drove 5 hrs in middle of winter and snow storm to go see her and put a deposit on it lol
i don't think it looked that bad. . the spill out happened in mid February the picture below is from Oct. before she got winterized.
...I believe it should go from the alternator, travel down to the idler, then to the raw water pump.From there, travel straight up to the engine water circulating pump...View attachment 55217
So I have to ask....did you not look at the engine?
I dunno Dude....unless you are just in love with that boat and can live with the screw-ups and not the engine you thought you bought, I think I would ask for my money back and keep looking.
What NorCal said. Also not sure where you're planning on boating or where the boat came from (other than MA-->NJ) but I can only assume you're going to be using this boat in the salt. I sure wouldn't want an open cooled boat in salt water. That's begging for problems vs. close cooled systems.
I think your serpentine belt is not routed correctly in that picture in Post #58.
I believe it should go from the alternator, travel down to the idler, then to the raw water pump.
From there, travel straight up to the engine water circulating pump.
View attachment 55217
Also looks like you trim bracket is pretty well rusted. No worry it's a common item to replace at the age of the boat - just get a stainless bracket and put some nylon spacers underneath to allow any water to flow and not get trapped.
Its also not that uncommon to get some water in the rear port corner under the trim tab pump. I would regularly get some accumulation there. I did not like it but it was run off dripping in. Just keep the area clean. You will get water in the bilge - just make sure you know where it is coming from and what an acceptable amount is.
-Kevin
You should get a real independent marine mechanic to check out the engines and get the dealer to pay for him or agree the boat price will be reduced by his fee. Compression, pull risers look for corrosion, cooling pressure test, raw water impeller inspection, oil analysis (Make sure oil is used first). You can do all this by saying "If a mistake was made on engine type I want to make sure the engines in the boat are sound because I have heard there could be problems with them"
i am not sure @Lazy Daze i would have to check it once i get it back. or go to http://thomasjferguson.zenfolio.com/recent.html
find
Sea Ray 260 DAISY V 194 photos and use password 2197 you'll get a lot more pics from the engine bay starting at page 7
That's what the dealer is doing. They are paying for the service being done and the Marine mechanics are investigating one thing at a time.
I looked at these pics. Were they from your survey? If so, I'd question the use of a moisture meter over bottom paint which is not accurate.
You need to make sure to be on top of them and 100% positive the do everything that Northern just mentioned. Especially since it's a raw water cooled system that's been in salt water. If those manifolds and risers are corroded, they need to be replaced ...which is not cheap. Corroded manifolds and risers fail, and then you get water in your engine, then bye bye engine. The compression test is absolutely critical here since it can really tell you if anything is wrong with the engine already. Make sure you get those numbers and post them here. I had a 350 on my first boat and the previous owner didn't change the risers/manifolds for 10 years. I was a noob and didn't check things out properly before taking the boat, and ended up having to get the whole upper unit rebuilt a few months into ownership. That wasn't fun.