Gen 3 Cool Fuel Filter Module. Expert opinion requested. Thx.

searaypuget

searaypuget

Member
May 21, 2017
84
Seattle
Boat Info
2008 Sundancer 280
Engines
496 Mercruiser w/Bravo III Drive
Hi

After reading all the threads on CF, I decided to check on my module (2008 496) and realized it looked somewhat different than what I had see in the previous postings. It looks there is a plate between the module and the hose as shown in the first picture. Is this normal? I am not sure what this white stuff around the plate in the picture 1.

What is the latest recommendation on the CF issue? This is what I've read so far.
  • Folks reported issues with CF Gen3. (paint in the housing flaking, thin wall causing water and fuel mix, bad hose fitting design and etc.)
  • New improved module introduced and TB issued. The new module came with diff fittings but still had the same painted inside.
  • New improved top using different material and no painting

I moor my boat in fresh water and so far I haven't had any issue at all. Expert opinion please :)

TOP


BOTTOM


METAL
 
I really do not have an opinion, but I will tell you what I learned. I had a 2006 260DA with the CF3 module. I never really had a problem with fuel contamination nor paint flaking, or any of that. However, the fitting that is used to connect the hose to the module is white plastic. Over time it gets brittle and will break. The metal bracket with the nut in the middle keeps the fittings firmly pushed into the housing and as long as the hoses are connected well, you get no leakage. It is necessary to back off of the nut on the bracket to drain the water from the module to winterize. Be very careful doing this. The first year that I did mine, I noticed that one of the plastic fittings was broken. The broken portion stayed in the module like it was glued in. When I put it back together, I carefully aligned the pieces and no leak. I continued to do this for the next 3-4 years that I owned the boat never having a problem.

Some have removed the module and very carefully machined threads into the fitting holes and used simple metal fittings and hose clamps to secure the hoses. There was a guy on here that had a machine shop and made some SS fittings to replace the plastic ones with and he was selling them. The new style modules use threaded fittings I believe. I think I can find the information about the fittings that the CSR member machined for sale. If you are interested, PM me and I will see if I can find it.

My $0.02...

Bennett
 
Thanks Bennett for the information. So that plate is the metal bracket to keep the fittings pushed in to the housing. Now I understand clearly. I don't think I am going to winterize the boat because it doesn't really get that cold here in Seattle and would have the bilge heater on.


bbwhitejr said:
I really do not have an opinion, but I will tell you what I learned. I had a 2006 260DA with the CF3 module. I never really had a problem with fuel contamination nor paint flaking, or any of that. However, the fitting that is used to connect the hose to the module is white plastic. Over time it gets brittle and will break. The metal bracket with the nut in the middle keeps the fittings firmly pushed into the housing and as long as the hoses are connected well, you get no leakage. It is necessary to back off of the nut on the bracket to drain the water from the module to winterize. Be very careful doing this. The first year that I did mine, I noticed that one of the plastic fittings was broken. The broken portion stayed in the module like it was glued in. When I put it back together, I carefully aligned the pieces and no leak. I continued to do this for the next 3-4 years that I owned the boat never having a problem.

Some have removed the module and very carefully machined threads into the fitting holes and used simple metal fittings and hose clamps to secure the hoses. There was a guy on here that had a machine shop and made some SS fittings to replace the plastic ones with and he was selling them. The new style modules use threaded fittings I believe. I think I can find the information about the fittings that the CSR member machined for sale. If you are interested, PM me and I will see if I can find it.

My $0.02...

Bennett
Click to expand...
 
My 2008 was the same. Plate holding in pressed-in hose fittings. White is most likely the start of some corrosion. Mine failed 2 years ago. I did not have flaking paint that I ever found when I disassembled the failed one but the fuel-touching internals did have paint in areas. Easy replacement but expensive. Leave it alone until it starts to fail.
 
Last edited:
Thanks. What do you mean by "leave it alone until it starts to fail"? When did you replace yours? I am just so surprised given a large number of units affected, many of the owners don't really care or know.
 
Some folks have partially disassembled their units searching for paint, or tried to remove them and reinstall. Those press in water fittings are not stable as the unit gets older and will not be reusable if disconnected. If it is working, and you have no signs of problems, I suggest leave it be.

Mine failed at 6 years old, but only 130 hours of engine use. It started to cut out at high speed, then started to drop out at idle and not restart until it sat for a bit. Then it failed completely. That all happened within 2 weeks. When I replaced it, I disassembled the failed one. No paint flaking issues though there were painted surfaces inside where gas touched.
 
In discussions with our mechanic, he suggested not fixing something that is working fine. My boat is a 2007 and has just under 500 hours. I am a freshwater boat, it is my understanding that salt water boats tend to have more issues with the units. It is frustrating to know it could fail at some point. But my mechanic says go boating... Not in my nature to not address something.
 
searaypuget-
What you could do is to replace just the housing. 8M0047216 is the part number for only the new style housing. You would use your fuel pumps, etc. Cost is $425 or so new. Shop around. Doug Russell Marine has an entire reconditioned new style (8M0047215) on eBay for $500 with pumps and all. The entire unit with pumps and all brand new is around $950 if memory serves me.

Maybe you will have a problem, maybe you won't...If you are unlucky and plug the entire fuel system with paint, I am not sure how much it costs to put things back right and then you will likely be spending the $950, plus a lot of labor...I never had an issue....

Bennett
 
I called the dealer asking about it and was told not to do anything unless there is a problem. Only few had the issue according to them. Anyways I went ahead and replaced the filter yesterday. It was very clean without any debris or gumming at all. I will keep the module as is since that's what the mechanic recommended.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
The paint that flakes off is after the filters so it won't show up there. You would need to remove some pieces to see if it was present. In either case, follow the mechanics suggestion to leave it be if you are not having issues.
 
i also do not have so far any issue with the cf3 . when changing fuel filter i look for paint and if anything looks good i leave it alone .
 
I just had an issue with my cf3. Was idling waiting for gas when the port motor shut down. Would not restart. The short story is I replaced the entire module, fuel pumps filter and all, at a cost of $1400. I was looking for the quick fix and was stuck at the fuel dock. Replaced unit and all seems fine. Took the old module apart and found that one of the pumps had burned out, probably from overheating. The overheating occurred because one of the plastic fittings attached to the module was totally clogged with this white silica type of gunk. Also inside of the housing where the pumps sit there was a considerable amount of this brown sandy looking stuff. Not sure where all of this stuff came from, but that's my story!
 
The paint chips don't land in the filter, there down stream of it , they will clog the fuel pressure regulator and then head into the fuel rail/injectors
 
searay495 said:
Also inside of the housing where the pumps sit there was a considerable amount of this brown sandy looking stuff. Not sure where all of this stuff came from, but that's my story!
Click to expand...

Yep - mine failed for the same reason and had the same stuff inside.
 
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