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I hear 'ya. It can be a little disheartening at times and and feels like it will never stop. Obviously it's a 40 year old boat so it's somewhat to be expected, but it doesn't make it feel any better knowing that.Thanks. I’ve done several repairs since I’ve bought it. But just kind of throwing my hands up at this one lol. Had it on the water for one weekend and this happens lol
Should the aluminum tanks be coated or have a some kind of primer applied to them to help protect from corrosion? The one in my boat had been, but did have corrosion starting where moisture was trapped in a couple points of contact on the bottom.Adding a little more info for you... Scorp used the term 'crevice corrosion' which is totally correct, but may be a misleading term to someone unfamilar with that. In essence, aluminum is a fine material to use for your new tank. It's the proper installation that matters... air circulation being the key. As long as there is air circulation, the aluminum will self protect itself. When certain materials are used, they cause moisture to stay in contact with the aluminum (no air circ)... and we're back to CC.
I briefly mentioned it above, but rubber, itself, is bad as it contains carbon with will also cause corrosion to Al.
There's any number of sources you can google to find proper installation techniques. However, the jist of it is that you will install FRP strips to the bottom of the tank - COMPLETELY covering the contact area with 5200 and fairing the edge to avoid moisture collection. The strips elevate the tank off the bilge floor, again for air circ.
The tank should also not be so big that it fits tightly to a bulkhead (more moisture collection). Always leave an air gap. FRP blocks or angles can be used to secure the tank.
I suppose this goes without saying, but just in case... DO NOT OPERATE the boat until this gets fixed. You don't want to be a statistic!
Well that's sounds like another boat buck! Thanks for sharing. Since I'm planning to move my rear cabin wall anyway, maybe a new larger tank is the smartest way to go. Did you happen to have any pics of your tank? I like the idea of the blocks for (ventilation) spacing.On my last boat, I had a new aluminum tank made with solid blocks of aluminum welded to the bottom to allow tank to have airspace beneath it. I had brackets welded on to attach the tank to the sides of the compartment. Also, it was Alodyne prepped, etched and painted with Awlgrip. It was still perfect after 10 years. BTW I had the tank built out of MUCH thicker aluminum plates than factory, suitable for offshore performance.
Coal Tar epoxy is another coating that has been used for years and years.Should the aluminum tanks be coated or have a some kind of primer applied to them to help protect from corrosion? The one in my boat had been, but did have corrosion starting where moisture was trapped in a couple points of contact on the bottom.
It was just a rectangular 100 gal center tank, nothing fancy. The guys that built it for me also built the tanks for Ocean Yacht and Pacemaker, quality work.Well that's sounds like another boat buck! Thanks for sharing. Since I'm planning to move my rear cabin wall anyway, maybe a new larger tank is the smartest way to go. Did you happen to have any pics of your tank? I like the idea of the blocks for (ventilation) spacing.