Fuel senders and a wiring issue?

SCORPIO

SCORPIO

Well-Known Member
Apr 7, 2008
2,743
Delaware
Boat Info
1989 300 DA
Engines
Twin 5.7 Merc Alpha I
Well I finally got round to replacing my faulty fuel tank sending units on my "89 300DA. What a PITA! Thanks to Sundancer for telling me about the trick to removing the panels from the storage compartments for access. He forgot to mention that you end up working one handed holding the light with the other and with one eye shut to focus on the thing LOL. I cannot believe that in 1989 Sea Ray was installing sending units with cork floats. I also can't believe that the floats are the same size as the hole in the tank. I had a tough time getting them out of the tanks. I hope I didn't get any cork bits in the gas, maybe I should stock up on fuel filters.
Now I at least have some way to know about how much gas I have.
Does anybody have any recommendations for a good fuel flow meter for me? I have a pair of Northstar F210s on the boat now but the transducers are both shot and Northstar doesn't make them any longer, discontinued. Their solution is to sell me a much more expensive unit, I think not. I don't trust their transducers and I question how long they will support that unit. Mine are only two years old.

I need to run new speaker cable to starboard cockpit speaker, it appears to have a break somewhere. Anybody know how they routed the cables from the port side stereo in the cabin to the starboard cockpit speaker? I haven't figured out how they crossed to the helm.
 
Scorpio. On my 1988 sundancer 300 the speaker wires run over the cabin companionway. someone has removed the interior panel at one time, and refastened it with trim screws and color matching buttons. PS. my boat has two stereo systems, one on the dash and one in the cabin. Hope this helps. Dave
 
I share another boat with my uncle and he has had a Flo Scan fuel flow meter installed on it. It's a great unit.
I've thought about installing two of them on my boat, but I'm hesitant to invest that much money in something that doesn't really affect the way my 23 year old boat runs or looks.
I am tempted though.
They also have replacement for the Tachs that include Tach, flow, and hours. If I went for anything, it would probably be those.
 
"I cannot believe that in 1989 Sea Ray was installing sending units with cork floats."

The Teleflex sender I just bought is made so much cheaper than the 1989 I removed is is disgusting. The synthetic float is painted and the paint is coming off. Wonder what that will do in the carb? The one size fits all sender is located submerged with wires running to it several inches instead of being at the top of the tank and no wires below. The wires will flop in the sloshing gas and break off. The cork was held by bent metal rod and will never come off. The new rod is held by slide on clips which will eventually rot. The rod is thinner to save a penny so it flexes more causing the gauge to bounce. And the submerged sender is held by self tapping screws. Wonder when those will back off? The old sender lasted 20 years cork and all. I give this one 5.
 
I just ordered one of these...

http://www.usmarineproducts.com/osc/product_info.php?products_id=298

Nothing goes in the tank. The unit measures the depth of air using sonic waves or something like that. You have to supply the depth of the tank and they provide a pre-set unit to 1" less.

My tank is 19" deep, so they will send me an 18" unit. When the sender reads 9" of air it will provide the right resisance for the gauge to show 1/2 tank. Typical floats don't read full tanks well since the float actually can be under the fuel when full and they can also have problems reading the bottom if they don't extend all the way to the bottom.

I was just looking for a more accurate reading on the analog gauge. I've had the flow-scan's on my last boat and I found it depressing to watch numeric values for my fuel usage. It was also a pain to have to remember to add fuel values to the unit after each trip to the gas dock. Should have the new unit within the next two weeks.
 
Andyr, I agree on how cheap the replacement sender looks in relation to the origional. The float arm on the old one was about 1/4" steel, the new one is like a coat hanger. I doubt they will last 20 years. I just thought the cork float looked a bit dated even for the late '80s. The new floats are probablly ethanol soluable and will sink in a short time LOL.
Jim, keep us posted on how that sender you ordered works out. It looks very interesting, may go that route in the future if I have to.
 
Just saw this old post and decided to update.

The SSI fuel sender has worked flawlessly since first installing it. The Port tank still has the OEM sender and you can really notice now just how inaccurate the old sender is in comparison! I should really get a second one now so they both match, but I'm from the old "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" school!
 
When my tank was out I replaced our original sending unit with a much more durable and accurate WEMA USA stainless steel unit.
Been very happy with it's performance. :thumbsup:
SSS-SSL.jpg


 
Thanks for mentioning the wooden panels in the storage areas to access the fuel sending units. Sure enough, the ground had come off the port side. It was a PITA as I have big hands and trying to get them through that small hole was challenging. How hard was it removing the bolts on the fuel sending unit and getting it realigned since you have to work one handed?
 
It wasn't all that hard. I used a 1/4 inch drive ratchet to remove the screws, at least until a nut driver could be used to run them out. I found that standing in the bilge with the access panel doors removed and the wooden 'wall' removed allowed me good access to the sender. I was able to reach thru the panel door and reach the screws. Its tight but you can get it. It helps if you can work by feel sometimes as its tought to both see and work on the thing at the same time. I found peaking under the deck at the tank top from time to time helped me.
 
SCORPIO said:
It wasn't all that hard. I used a 1/4 inch drive ratchet to remove the screws, at least until a nut driver could be used to run them out. I found that standing in the bilge with the access panel doors removed and the wooden 'wall' removed allowed me good access to the sender. I was able to reach thru the panel door and reach the screws. Its tight but you can get it. It helps if you can work by feel sometimes as its tought to both see and work on the thing at the same time. I found peaking under the deck at the tank top from time to time helped me.
Click to expand...

I really need to check in a little more often! I did the same thing, but I vaguely remember hanging my head over the edge into the engine compartment to see the screws? I already remember wishing I had longer arms!

Also VERY interested in the system without floats. Seems like that might be more accurate and wondering how long that will last. I hope a long time since there are no moving parts. At least you don't have to put anything in the tank, just replace the float and drop the new "lid" in it's place. That's a simple elegant solution.
 
Jimmy Buoy said:
Just saw this old post and decided to update.

The SSI fuel sender has worked flawlessly since first installing it. The Port tank still has the OEM sender and you can really notice now just how inaccurate the old sender is in comparison! I should really get a second one now so they both match, but I'm from the old "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" school!
Click to expand...

i can verify Jimmy Buoy's results. I did the same update on one tank with the SSI after the original post. Very easy install and accurate.
 
Last edited:
Just noticed your post. When you connected your sender, did you have only the sending wire, or did you also have a ground wire. My 1990 has only a pink sending wire. No ground. I made a jumper ground. That was a big mistake. Will be posting my episode later. Having a 1990 has me stuck being two categories. I really think I need to post in the classic sategory.
 
Thanks. I am trying to determine when Sea Ray went to two wires on the sending unit. I have only only one. It may be one wire was only for certain models. If you remember exactly, it would be great to know. I realize stuff goes into the mental canyon after 8 years.
 
Fred, I know we had discussed this in your other thread quite a bit, but in case you missed it... adding a second ground DID NOT and CAN NOT cause the issue you had (which was scary, for sure!). Also, researching or trying to determine the number of grounds is also meaningless - save your time. When you added a second ground, you only made things BETTER.
 
Lazy Daze said:
Fred, I know we had discussed this in your other thread quite a bit, but in case you missed it... adding a second ground DID NOT and CAN NOT cause the issue you had (which was scary, for sure!). Also, researching or trying to determine the number of grounds is also meaningless - save your time. When you added a second ground, you only made things BETTER.
Click to expand...
Sorry, Lazy Days. Sea Ray won't support your claim. Sea Ray will NOT rule out 12v flowing to the sending unit when a jumper is added to the ground 4 in. away.
 
FredM said:
Sorry, Lazy Days. Sea Ray won't support your claim. Sea Ray will NOT rule out 12v flowing to the sending unit when a jumper is added to the ground 4 in. away.
Click to expand...
You have to have voltage flowing to your sending unit, without it it wouldn't work
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Forum statistics

Threads
113,253
Messages
1,429,327
Members
61,128
Latest member
MinecraftRuSwilm
Back
Top