Fresh water pump won't pressurize

Tyler Iverson

Tyler Iverson

New Member
Jul 31, 2017
9
Boat Info
270 Sundancer 1997
Engines
454 Mercruiser w/Bravo III
I have the original pump that came with my boat--model 2088-423-244. When I went to turn it on the first time this year, it will run but it wouldn't build pressure. I would get a few spurts and drips from my faucets but nothing more. I read a few similar posts on this site and others and tried what was recommended--inspecting filter/strainer/settling bulb on the pump inlet for cracks (I can blow in one side while plugging the other and it seems intact with no cracks), bleeding air out of the lines (I've opened every faucet on the boat including hot water heater drain and relief valve at different times), I removed the pump and took apart the lower section and as far as my inexperienced eyes can tell, no diaphragm tears, cuts or blockages. Actually looks remarkably clean for 20+ years old! Water flows freely from the tank when I removed the pump so no blockages from the tank to the filter/pump. Here's where I'm at now but would love any advice or answers to remaining questions:

1. Replace the pump and filter. Called Shurflo/Pentair and was told the replacement for this model is 4138-111-E65 and the new filter replacement is model 255-313. Boat is on fresh water and we live in a high mountain desert (very dry air). Do I go with the marine grade pump recommended or would a cheaper RV version do just as well?

2. The new filter/strainer is longer than the original which is going to cause me to have to trim some length off of the tubing/pipe coming from the fresh water tank. Does anyone know what size tubing (blue) was used from the fresh water tank on these boats? I repaired a leaky galley sink (supply lines under the sink) last year and it seems like the tubing was non-standard and I had to order fittings from a supplier that imports them from Europe.? Can I remove and re-use the white fitting that's in the picture (looks like push-on on one end and female 1/2" NPS on the other (or is it NPT??).

3. My question in #2 might be moot since I just read this in the installation guide for the new pump they recommended--"SHURflo recommends at least 1ft. [.3M] of ½"[13mm] I.D. flexible high pressure tubing to both ports. Ideally the pump's ports/strainer should not be connected to plastic or rigid pipe. The pump's normal oscillation may transmit through rigid plumbing causing noise, and possibly loosen or crack components." This is definitely not how my pump was installed from SeaRay originally. Does anyone know if this is the standard now and maybe some links to some correct size parts (hose, fittings, adapters) that would allow me to install this correctly?

4. I've owned the boat for a couple years now. The first year I poured several gallons of the pink anti-freeze into the fresh water tank and ran it through all of my lines until it was coming out pink from the faucets and toilet. Including the hot water side. (I think someone told me that maybe it was a mistake running it through the hot water heater?? I know the hot water line stunk pretty good in the spring when I turned on the heater--had to cycle several tanks through to get rid of it.) Last fall I ran my pump until the fresh water holding tank was drained but decided to hook up an attachment I'd used with our old camping trailer to the pressurized marina water inlet so I could just run compressed air through the lines and did that until I had air running out of toilet, faucets and hot water heater. My initial fear this spring was that this bypassed the fresh water pump and I most likely had residual fresh water in the pump, strainer and line from the tank which would have frozen. I have been unable to confirm any cracked lines, but if that were the problem, I would think it would have to be a line close to the pump in the bilge since the majority of the system was cleared with air last fall. What's the best method of winterizing fresh water system?

***Sorry, the image uploaded sideways.
 

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If you want to really prove its a pump problem, you could cap the exit side of the pump (small pipe and plug or cap it) and see if the pump stops when you turn it on. By doing that, it rules out ANY and ALL possible leaks that you may have elsewhere in the boat!
If you do have to replace it, Ask West Marine about their warranty. Its great. You will a little more for the pump, but any issues, they replace no questions asked!

Winter storage:
I NEVER put antifreze in my water holding tank or water heater. No need to...
Important: Shut the electrical breaker off the water heater and open the drain plug. Remove the cold supply and hot lines off the water heater and connect them together (bypassing the water heater). Run the water until the main water tank is empty. Last, install a short plastic pipe from the input side of the pump into a 5 gallon bucket with RV antifreeze and run it through ALL boat faucets, toilets, etc... Done ! With the Hot water tank and main water tank empty, there is NOTHING to freeze!
 
Little Ducky said:
I had to change mine out a few years ago....... the diaphragm gets a little stiff and it won't build pressure.

If everything else checks out just buy this and replace. Comes all assembled with a new pressure switch and all. :)

https://www.amazon.com/SHURFLO-94-2...ureflow+2088&qid=1557165555&s=gateway&sr=8-12
Click to expand...
Ordered! This is brilliant for a couple reasons--I can use the same bracket/holes for mounting and keep the clear bulb that was previously mounted which will allow all the previous plumbing to line up. I hope this is the issue but it's worth $55 to me to rule out a bad diaphragm. Thank you!
 
tony1b2000 said:
If you want to really prove its a pump problem, you could cap the exit side of the pump (small pipe and plug or cap it) and see if the pump stops when you turn it on. By doing that, it rules out ANY and ALL possible leaks that you may have elsewhere in the boat!
If you do have to replace it, Ask West Marine about their warranty. Its great. You will a little more for the pump, but any issues, they replace no questions asked!

Winter storage:
I NEVER put antifreze in my water holding tank or water heater. No need to...
Important: Shut the electrical breaker off the water heater and open the drain plug. Remove the cold supply and hot lines off the water heater and connect them together (bypassing the water heater). Run the water until the main water tank is empty. Last, install a short plastic pipe from the input side of the pump into a 5 gallon bucket with RV antifreeze and run it through ALL boat faucets, toilets, etc... Done ! With the Hot water tank and main water tank empty, there is NOTHING to freeze!
Click to expand...
This sounds like my new winter routine--thank you. I'm not near my boat right now to look at it, but how do you connect the hot and cold lines at the heater together--do you have an adapter/coupler of some sort that you made?
 
Now I'm dying to get back up to the boat to see how mine is set up! Maybe it came with a bypass or the original owner installed one and I have just missed it.!? Not sure if the poly pipe in the bilge area is the same as under the sinks, but I did find my order from last year for the fittings I needed to repair a fresh water leak under the galley sink. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't think 15mm diameter pipe is all that common??

https://www.freshwatersystems.com/p...HHv53ZyYaAeAzZjbO8CmlWCF2lyjRSEhoChBoQAvD_BwE
 
The Shurflo RV pumps seem to last forever and cost $65. For a boat part, that is free.
 
Tyler
I have a similar post on this same problem. Can you clarify something you stated. You said water flows freely from the tank when I remove the pump. Are you saying water flows freely when you disconnect the hose that leads to the pump? So if left like this the water in the tank would drain out?
For mine, no water comes out so I'm thinking the pump isn't getting water to suck up and pump.

And I've never seen a pump with flexible lines like the manufacture suggest.
 
midexp said:
Are you saying water flows freely when you disconnect the hose that leads to the pump? So if left like this the water in the tank would drain out? For mine, no water comes out so I'm thinking the pump isn't getting water to suck up and pump.

And I've never seen a pump with flexible lines like the manufacture suggest.
Click to expand...

For me when I was having pump trouble I gave the hose leading to the tank a little vacuum and that got the water flowing and it emptied the tank into the bilge area.

I consider PEX tubing (blue and red plastic) flexible. I don't think they want you to use ridged PVC or copper because it would transfer the vibrations to the rest of the plumbing system.
 
midexp said:
Tyler
I have a similar post on this same problem. Can you clarify something you stated. You said water flows freely from the tank when I remove the pump. Are you saying water flows freely when you disconnect the hose that leads to the pump? So if left like this the water in the tank would drain out?
For mine, no water comes out so I'm thinking the pump isn't getting water to suck up and pump.

And I've never seen a pump with flexible lines like the manufacture suggest.
Click to expand...
Yes, when I unscrewed the hose from the clear strainer/bulb to the left of the pump, water flows freely into the bilge area so if yours is not, I bet you have a blockage or obstruction in that hose or right where the tank drains?
 
Little Ducky said:
For me when I was having pump trouble I gave the hose leading to the tank a little vacuum and that got the water flowing and it emptied the tank into the bilge area.
Click to expand...
That would be a good test for Midexp, try to siphon water from the tank using the line to the water pump.
 
Can anyone (especially a 400 DA) post of picture of their FW pump for me if it's mounted vertical? I'm wondering if my problem is that the PO re plumbed the FW pump and the pump's suction side is too far away from the main FW tank line/hose. I'm thinking about moving it closer and just have one straight 90 elbow going right to the tank line.

If I disconnect the suction hose at the FW tank line, there's very little suction from the pump (just gurgles). Wondering if the line is too long and far away?

Thanks
 
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