Engine turns over, beeps twice but won't start

Note that, in addition to @scoflaw's input, the rotor will turn as you lift the distributor, since it's driven by a helical gear. Mark the rotor's position as installed, then where it rotated to once it's been pulled out. Then you'll be golden.
 
@scoflaw @Nater Potater Thanks for that info. I would need to find some videos or find a friend to help, i'm bound to screw something more up if i try that right now.

The latest is, i was able to use a knife to cut out the old ignition sensor that surrounded the mentioned cross threaded screw. So now i'm left with the stem of the screw in the base of the distributor. Unfortunately i didn't have my vice grips on me and had to get to work, so next time i get down there i will attempt to use vise grips to remove the screw. If the vise grips do not work, i may be left to removing the distributor in order to get better leverage and more access.

Such an easy replacement of two screws is becoming a big pain.
 

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@PlayDate I'm so jealous of that guys engine room, i have no access to that side of my engine without removing my manifolds. Any how, without measuring, i have about 1 foot, maybe 1.5 feet of space above the distributor.
 
Update:

The vice grips failed. That screw simply doesn't want to budge given the lack of access and leverage I have. I don't want to force it and break the screw off in the base of the distributor.

Looks like I'll need to remove the distributor for more leverage. Might be a while before I get to it as I'll be away the next couple weekends and won't have much time to get to it. In the mean time I will be rewatching those videos, especially the part about getting the rotor in the correct position before pulling it.
 
That screw simply doesn't want to budge... Looks like I'll need to remove the distributor for more leverage.
Once you get the distributor out, heat it with a heat gun until it sizzles spit (around 220-230 degrees F) and try again with the Vise Grips. You can (and should) leave them clamped to the screw while you heat the body so there's no time wasted once things are up to temp. With the distributor being aluminum and the screw being steel, the body will expand more than the screw. This may loosen things just enough to get the ball rolling.

If you do end up breaking off the screw, get yourself some left-hand twist drill bits, since they'll be working to loosen the screw while you drill it out. That's saved me any number of times.
 
The rotor doesn't need to be in the correct position, it just needs to be installed in the direction it is now without disturbing the engine while its out. Mark the diz base to the manifold. This is easy stuff.
 
@Nater Potater thank you, that is good info and I'll be sure to try that.

@scoflaw good to know. I was basing that comment off watching the video posted recommended above where the guy mentioned getting the rotor into the correct position (cylinder 1) before pulling it. If youre saying that step isn't necessary that makes it easier for sure.

Appreciate all the replies, for someone with little experience, it sure helps my confidence going into these projects.
 
UPDATE:

Been trying to find the right tool to loosen the bolt that holds the distributor on, so i was at the boat today with a few different options. During that my stubbornness kicked in and i started messing with the stuck screw some more. I finally was able to make it turn ever so slightly with the vice grips and slowly but surely was able to back it out. It was crossed threaded and also bent. Someone did a number to that thing.

Anyways, i put the new ignition sensor in and put everything back together. She fired right up and seemed to start much quicker than any other time previously, especially cold. Also, the double beep is gone when turning the ignition over.

Much appreciation to everyone on this thread for the help!
 
UPDATE:

Been trying to find the right tool to loosen the bolt that holds the distributor on, so i was at the boat today with a few different options. During that my stubbornness kicked in and i started messing with the stuck screw some more. I finally was able to make it turn ever so slightly with the vice grips and slowly but surely was able to back it out. It was crossed threaded and also bent. Someone did a number to that thing.

Anyways, i put the new ignition sensor in and put everything back together. She fired right up and seemed to start much quicker than any other time previously, especially cold. Also, the double beep is gone when turning the ignition over.

Much appreciation to everyone on this thread for the help!
That is a great feeling!
 
Great to hear you didn't have to remove the distributor - stubbornness can pay off! Sounds like that was the issue and you have a reliable engine again.
 
UPDATE:

I was back at the boat today for the first time since I "fixed" the previous issue. I fired it up and it started, sounded normal at first, then quickly began sounding rough and got very quiet. It bobbled around for a while and then died (less than a minute total). The interesting thing is it beeped twice while turning it over similar to the previous issue. Anyways, i tried a few times to start it and it just cranked and cranked. I put my spark plug tester on it and am indeed getting spark, so i'd assume the ignition sensor is functional. I tried giving it some neutral throttle while cranking and that didn't help.

I didn't have much time to try anything else and wasn't really sure what route to go.

Any ideas?
 
Lightly spray starting fluid into the spark arrester while cranking. If it fires then start the fuel supply trouble shooting.
 
@Wanderer 290 Is this for a carb'd engine or EFI? (excuse my ignorance)

@PlayDate I started wondering about that last night. I know the last time I was cruising in the boat i had a half tank left. I didn't happen to check my fuel level, but i suppose it's not that far fetched to think someone siphoned fuel from my tank. That'll be a head slapper for sure, that i didn't look at the fuel tank.

I'll take a closer look next time i'm there.
 

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