Engine turns over, beeps twice but won't start

I now builders do some radical things and cause us to do just as radical things to gain access. Flame arrester is a serviceable unit. Wouldn't think it would be routinely made not to be removable. As above - did someone (PO) change it out? If so, how the heck did they get it on if you cannot get it off. Not doubting your claim, but just doesn't make sense. There has got to be a way.
 
@techmitch @Korkie Regarding the throttle body work last year - the work order says "sent throttle body in for rebuild" with another document with injector readings and such. It mentions "lean flow" on the injectors before the cleaning of them. Also says "IAC check passed". All of that is another language to me, but thats what i know.

I will get some pictures next time of the "bulkhead" i'm referring to. Essentially, the flame arrester can't lift off the throttle body enough to be removed because it hits the ceiling of the bilge, if you will. There must be a way since the mechanics removed it last year, but i can tell the bottom of the flame arrester is badly bent as they likely forced it off the tops of the throttle body. I could try to do that, but i'm afraid of damaging something else, or not being able to get it back on. Hard to explain, i'll get some photos
 
@techmitch @Korkie Regarding the throttle body work last year - the work order says "sent throttle body in for rebuild" with another document with injector readings and such. It mentions "lean flow" on the injectors before the cleaning of them. Also says "IAC check passed". All of that is another language to me, but thats what i know.

I will get some pictures next time of the "bulkhead" i'm referring to. Essentially, the flame arrester can't lift off the throttle body enough to be removed because it hits the ceiling of the bilge, if you will. There must be a way since the mechanics removed it last year, but i can tell the bottom of the flame arrester is badly bent as they likely forced it off the tops of the throttle body. I could try to do that, but i'm afraid of damaging something else, or not being able to get it back on. Hard to explain, i'll get some photos

Second the request for a picture. Is it a bolt or a nut holding the flame arrestor on?
 
Second the request for a picture. Is it a bolt or a nut holding the flame arrestor on?
Certainly will get a photo...but for now see the diagram regarding your question. The cover of the arrester has a nut that holds it on. I unscrew that nut to remove the cover in order to have access to the arrester. From there i can unhook the connections to the arrester and attempt to pull it off the throttle body. The problem is i can't lift the arrester off the TB because it hits the top of the bilge before it clears the TB.
 

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I unscrew that nut to remove the cover in order to have access to the arrester. From there i can unhook the connections to the arrester and attempt to pull it off the throttle body. The problem is i can't lift the arrester off the TB because it hits the top of the bilge before it clears the TB.
Can you unscrew the hold-down stud from out of the throttle body and carry it out with the flame arrestor? That would gain some room, as the flame arrestor doesn't then have to go up over the top of the stud.
 
Certainly will get a photo...but for now see the diagram regarding your question. The cover of the arrester has a nut that holds it on. I unscrew that nut to remove the cover in order to have access to the arrester. From there i can unhook the connections to the arrester and attempt to pull it off the throttle body. The problem is i can't lift the arrester off the TB because it hits the top of the bilge before it clears the TB.

That stud will unscrew from the throttle body as you can see in the diagram that you posted.
 
Can you unscrew the hold-down stud from out of the throttle body and carry it out with the flame arrestor? That would gain some room, as the flame arrestor doesn't then have to go up over the top of the stud.

Thats what I get for walking away from the computer after forgetting to click post reply.
 
Can you unscrew the hold-down stud from out of the throttle body and carry it out with the flame arrestor? That would gain some room, as the flame arrestor doesn't then have to go up over the top of the stud.

This ^. I have seen this movie before and the clearance is really tight which is why backing the stud off should give you the clearance you need to remove the flame arrestor and stud together. Why I asked if it was a stud or bolt holding the plastic cover and arrestor in place is that as a matter of course I pull the stud and use a bolt to secure the cover and arrestor in place to the throttle body. That also reduces the chance of dropping nuts and washers into the throttle body and makes the flame arrestor easy to remove.
 
Unfortunately it's not the stud that is limiting the arrester, but the highest point of the throttle body itself. Sounds like this is unique to me, maybe someone before me made some odd changes. Not sure. I'll get some photos though, maybe that will help clear things up
 
This is the ER on a 2002 Sundancer 260.

8038845_20210920123333945_1_XLARGE.jpg
Yep, that is how mine looks. You can see there is a notch of fiberglass removed already. Mine has that notch as well, but it's not enough to let the arrester come up over the throttle body (on mine at least).
 
Can you disassemble the flame arrestor? If you can separate the top and bottom of the arrestor from its core......it should come out. I would definitely find a way to do that before I would cut fiberglass.
 
Can you disassemble the flame arrestor? If you can separate the top and bottom of the arrestor from its core......it should come out. I would definitely find a way to do that before I would cut fiberglass.
Thanks for the idea. I will try that
 
After getting back to the boat and looking closer at it, the fiberglass is already notched as high as it can go. Also, with the arrestor on there is no way to unscrew the throttle body first, so i decided to try to force it and was able to get the arrestor off. Getting it back on proved to be even more of a pain, but i eventually forced it again and didn't break anything. This can't be the ideal way to do this, there must be a better way.....You can see in the photo the arrestor is pinned between the throttle body and top of the engine compartment. (i've given up trying to figure out why this website turns my attachments sideways, so sorry about that)

Back to the original discussion of this thread...while i wait for the ignition sensor to arrive, i went ahead and started to remove the old sensor. One of the two screws that hold sensor on is corroded and also stripped. I'll need to go back another time with some lubricant and other tools to attempt to get that screw out.
 

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Update:

I brought my pb blaster and screw extraction kit to get this screw out that holds the ignition sensor in place, since it's stuck and stripped. The extractors wouldn't grab on tight enough to remove the screw. I kept trying until the head of the screw broke off. No problem, I'll just work on the screw stem. I finally got the extractor to bite and hold, switched to the hand screw driver to turn slower than the drill, but the extractor broke off before the screw ever turned. I'm thinking this screw must be cross threaded since pb blaster hasn't helped and it won't turn even a millimeter.

At this point I'm stuck and not sure what else to do. Maybe I need to now pull the distributor out so I can work on this outside of the engine room. But this is something I've never done and not sure what it entails. Oh the joys of boats... Any suggestions?
 

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