Engine Hatch Actuators, Rams

Dknebes

New Member
Dec 18, 2021
10
Lake Ozark, MO
Boat Info
340 Sundancer 2005
Engines
8.1 V drives
So purchased a 2005 340 Sundancer 500hrs on engines 4 months ago. I had a survey so I was aware of most of the issues, and made an offer based on the issues. I had a local mechanic (half price) go through and replace or fix all hoses in engines and alternator, belts, heat exchangers, one alternator, impellers, duckbill seals toilet, new water heater, bilge pump, 4 batteries, spark plugs, Change oil and fluids Engines, v-drives, generator, phew that's a lot. I also pulled had bottom sanded painted, removed stripes, buffed and waxed hull and topsides, removed props balance and repitched to 23 (another member did this with great results). Alright I would have done a lot of this myself but it was cold here. I also would have done much of this with any used boat that I bought. One thing that didn't show up a on the survey was the actuators. I had one start popping the circuit breaker (great place Sea Ray in the bilge under the engine hatch) luckily the hatch was open enough to hit the breaker with a wood pole. I was able to get it up before totally failing. If you start to have a problem replace the actuators before the hatch is stuck closed. With a ton of online research I found a place called Zorro.com I checked them out and they had a lot of complaints BBB but answered all the complaints. Zorro sells over a million items and some are drop shipped from the mfg. I called and talked to a customer service person and told him of the complaints and concerns and he said the had 18 actuators K2G20-12V-BR-18 Linear Actuator,12VDC,1200 lb. in stock, it was late Thursday and I received the actuator Tuesday. If you replace these do both I bought one first from eBay and it was a little faster than the original ones so it will start to bind when raising or lowering. Ok so I installed both actuators, pretty straight forward however when I lowered the hatch it stopped about an inch before closing. I stuck my phone in the access hole and took a picture showing the bracket bottomed out on the top of the actuator. The lower bracket has two holes and the new actuator will only go in the top hole. So here is the fix, remove the lower bracket and cut off the top of the bracket so you can use the lower hole dropping the actuator approximately 1" I was able to cut the starboard side off in place (not fun but possible), used my hand belt sander to round the top. I used a 6 in. 7 Teeth per Inch TORCH Carbide Teeth Thick Metal Cutting SAWZALL Reciprocating Saw Blade frome Home Depot and it cut it no problem just wants to jump around and as you know there is no room to work. You also need to buy 4 bushing to convert 1/2" holes in the actuators to 3/8 top and bottom. Cost of one actuator was $554 with including tax and free freight. The hatch now opens and closes effortlessly. Sorry for the long post.
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So purchased a 2005 340 Sundancer 500hrs on engines 4 months ago. I had a survey so I was aware of most of the issues, and made an offer based on the issues. I had a local mechanic (half price) go through and replace or fix all hoses in engines and alternator, belts, heat exchangers, one alternator, impellers, duckbill seals toilet, new water heater, bilge pump, 4 batteries, spark plugs, Change oil and fluids Engines, v-drives, generator, phew that's a lot. I also pulled had bottom sanded painted, removed stripes, buffed and waxed hull and topsides, removed props balance and repitched to 23 (another member did this with great results). Alright I would have done a lot of this myself but it was cold here. I also would have done much of this with any used boat that I bought. One thing that didn't show up a on the survey was the actuators. I had one start popping the circuit breaker (great place Sea Ray in the bilge under the engine hatch) luckily the hatch was open enough to hit the breaker with a wood pole. I was able to get it up before totally failing. If you start to have a problem replace the actuators before the hatch is stuck closed. With a ton of online research I found a place called Zorro.com I checked them out and they had a lot of complaints BBB but answered all the complaints. Zorro sells over a million items and some are drop shipped from the mfg. I called and talked to a customer service person and told him of the complaints and concerns and he said the had 18 actuators K2G20-12V-BR-18 Linear Actuator,12VDC,1200 lb. in stock, it was late Thursday and I received the actuator Tuesday. If you replace these do both I bought one first from eBay and it was a little faster than the original ones so it will start to bind when raising or lowering. Ok so I installed both actuators, pretty straight forward however when I lowered the hatch it stopped about an inch before closing. I stuck my phone in the access hole and took a picture showing the bracket bottomed out on the top of the actuator. The lower bracket has two holes and the new actuator will only go in the top hole. So here is the fix, remove the lower bracket and cut off the top of the bracket so you can use the lower hole dropping the actuator approximately 1" I was able to cut the starboard side off in place (not fun but possible), used my hand belt sander to round the top. I used a 6 in. 7 Teeth per Inch TORCH Carbide Teeth Thick Metal Cutting SAWZALL Reciprocating Saw Blade frome Home Depot and it cut it no problem just wants to jump around and as you know there is no room to work. You also need to buy 4 bushing to convert 1/2" holes in the actuators to 3/8 top and bottom. Cost of one actuator was $554 with including tax and free freight. The hatch now opens and closes effortlessly. Sorry for the long post.
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Wholly crap…. Doesn’t the forum software limit the number of words per post ?…. And on top of that we got picture teased :(
 
I;ve only got the single actutator but it sticks sometimes

Now I might be inspired to replace it
 
I purchased a set off of Amazon after purchasing the boat and before moving it. They were linear actuators made by a very reputable company. I had them shipped to the Cummins guy that was doing work before I moved the boat as he had to access the bilge and the original would not work at all. I have used them since 10/2020. The one on the port side was always about 3" slower than the one on the starboard side. I had finally received a set from Shelley that were OEM about a year ago. Last week I installed the OEM ones and they are smooth as silk and operate at exactly the same speed. I synchronized them when I installed them and they are just perfect. The 420 engine hatch raises 1/2 of the cockpit floor and is really heavy. Even with the 1st set I installed nothing was cut and with the OEM, simply remove, replace, time them, and go. They are perfect!!!!

Bennett
 
I purchased a set off of Amazon after purchasing the boat and before moving it. They were linear actuators made by a very reputable company. I had them shipped to the Cummins guy that was doing work before I moved the boat as he had to access the bilge and the original would not work at all. I have used them since 10/2020. The one on the port side was always about 3" slower than the one on the starboard side. I had finally received a set from Shelley that were OEM about a year ago. Last week I installed the OEM ones and they are smooth as silk and operate at exactly the same speed. I synchronized them when I installed them and they are just perfect. The 420 engine hatch raises 1/2 of the cockpit floor and is really heavy. Even with the 1st set I installed nothing was cut and with the OEM, simply remove, replace, time them, and go. They are perfect!!!!

Bennett
It is nice to finally have something that works so well. I basically made sure the extended length was the same when I installed mine.
 
You guys with diesel engines are good with any actuator.
@Dknebes You have a gasoline boat and all electrical items in the engine room need to be "Ignition protected".
Either a label will say "Ignition Protected" or a label that says "SAE J1171" which is equal.

They are available but the ones from Amazon and most others are likely not IP.

http://www.clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/source-for-ignition-protected-engine-hatch-lift-actuator.105826/

p.s. for now be sure to run the blowers first for a few minutes before opening that hatch.
 
You guys with diesel engines are good with any actuator.
@Dknebes You have a gasoline boat and all electrical items in the engine room need to be "Ignition protected".
Either a label will say "Ignition Protected" or a label that says "SAE J1171" which is equal.

They are available but the ones from Amazon and most others are likely not IP.

http://www.clubsearay.com/index.php...-protected-engine-hatch-lift-actuator.105826/
http://www.clubsearay.com/index.php...-protected-engine-hatch-lift-actuator.105826/
p.s. for now be sure to run the blowers first for a few minutes before opening that hatch.
Yep, that's why I posted the picture with the label on it.
 
Sorry i dont see the images for some reason
 
You have to be logged in.
Really? After 7 posts you know how the forum works that well...
If I were not logged in I would not be able to reply, and certainly not under my logon name.

But I am a cautious individual so before responding I checked your other post in Newbie section, also broken images, and Blueone noted that "we got picture teased" indicating no pictures...

So try re-posting the images perhaps smaller or a different format.

Welcome to CSR!
 
Really? After 7 posts you know how the forum works that well...
If I were not logged in I would not be able to reply, and certainly not under my logon name.

But I am a cautious individual so before responding I checked your other post in Newbie section, also broken images, and Blueone noted that "we got picture teased" indicating no pictures...

So try re-posting the images perhaps smaller or a different format.

Welcome to CSR!
I am sorry that you didn't get the pictures, when I forgot to log in I did not see the pictures, when I logged in they were there. I did take time to take pictures and provide information so anyone with the same problem would have an easier time finding and installing the actuators. I was not trying to be a smart ass! Also I just was trying to get the information out and I am sorry it was one long paragraph. I will not be posting again!
 

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