Emergency Boat Handling Procedures

[CameronLLC]

Are there any guidelines, protocols, or written procedures for handling a twin engine inboard when one engine fails? We have had the occasion when one engine has failed on our Sundancer 340. Maneuvering in and out of a dock, when this occurs is very difficult. What are the emergency maneuvering and operating guidelines when this occurs?

 

[Jacob]

Every boat is different; you should practice manuevering with one engine with your 2nd engine at the ready to bail you out. Go aboard a single screw inboard boat and see how they do it, remembering that a twin screw boat on 1 engine is a lot less responsive. I've done it in a crowded marina to get into a boathouse but it was not fun. A lot of hard reverse to stop the boat and correct for vastly compromised forward steering is something to expect.

 

[fwebster]

I've never seen anything credible written about single engine handling on a twin-screw boat. I suppose the reason is in the first sentence of the above post.

At least as far as Sea Ray boats are concerned, the centerline to centerline distance between the shafts, propulsion system, i.e., inboard vs. v-drive-vs. I/O, gas vs. diesel, pocket depth, and rudder size all make a difference and every model is different. Some boats handle easily on one; other (like mine!) morph from being a handling sweetheart into an mean, ornery sob when you lose one engine. You need some practice on one engine to understand what is happening with your particular model. In my case, the shafts are so far apart that it take full rudder deflection to hold the boat straight at slow speeds. I need to run 10-12 kts to get anything close to normal steering.

The one tip I can offer is that you need to keep cool when you lose and engine. The first step is to try to regain power by any safe means possible, but with todays electronic controlled engines, that may not be possible.

Next, take care of any needed procedures to protect your boat while running on one engine like tying off a prop shaft if needed for your transmission.

Finally, overheating is frequently the reason we need to shut down an engine. If that happens you can usually make it to the dock on the remaining engine while the hot engine cools down. Once ready to dock, you can usually start and run the hot engine in short bursts to get dual engine control at the critical stages of entering a slip or pulling along side a dock.

 

[Sundancer]

Just pray that the engine you have to shut down isn't the one that provides power to you power steering! Try manuvering without power steering and your best bet might be throwing out an anchor until help arrives!

 

[Redhook98]

The number one rule is go slow and have patience. Actually, as long as you follow that rule and keep you head, you can put that boat anywhere you could have with both motors running.

 

[fc3]

I hit something in the water and decided to shut down that engine and head back to the dock on one engine rather than do a dive and check because we had guests and I didn't want to have to go below and change. We were close to the marina, so it wasn't too bad. On a single engine, she was slow but easy to handle. Just needed moderate rudder to hold course. She backed like a single engine boat crabbing into the wheel, but that was easy to compensate by just approaching the slip from the other side. Overall, it was a non-event.

 

[keokie]

Good posts above.

Mine doesn't do too badly on one engine (outdrives probably helps a bit here). Even without powere steering, it can be handled relatively well.

I would recommend spending a little time on each motor to have a little feel and be able to anticipate what you will be dealing with if you ever do lose a motor.

 

[SevenTeas]

Handling isn't bad. Just go slow and carefull.

Trailering it is another matter alltogether with one engine and no power steering.

 

[Skeetobite]

Had to work my way to my slip one time through several turns to port and starboard on a single engine. The only thing I can contribute was that I had to goose it a bit to get her to turn. I have seen several boaters "over do" the goosing, follow by the worst sound fiberglass can make. As other have stated, go slow, you have all day.

 

[Alex F]

Getting from point A to point B on a single engine is not a problem. If travelling a long distance (several miles), then the first thing to do, as FWebster suggested, is to secure the prop on the dead engine. This can be easily done from inside the engine room. Whenunderway, the boat will steer to one side, but turning the wheal slightly will straighten it.

Docking will be very different. If you’re backing in to a slip in well protected marina with no wind and no current you’ll be just fine. I had to do it in the transient marina with river current and it was difficult. In any case you need to approach the slip from the side of the working engine. The problem is that when you put her in reverse the power of the prop pulls the boat to the side of the working engine, but turning the wheal doesn’t compensate due to the small rudders. Thus, the engine will always pull much further. To fix this you’ll need to do it small increment steps. Put her in gear to start moving in reverse and take it out of the gear and let the rudders fix the direction. It’s best to have helping hands and have the boat hook ready when approaching the dock. If you find it too difficult you can always “walk” her in to the slip as soon as you get the stern about 15% in the slip. Don’t use the engine rather just push off the object (pilings, boat in the next slip, etc.). The main thing is to do it very slowly. If there’s a wind or current you just need to be prepared for the bow swing. Boat hook and couple of lines will be very helpful.

Hope this helps.

 

[rcknecht]

I recently lost a enging from overheating, and ended having to buy new dripless seals after traveling amost 2 hours on one engine. I did not secure the prop... Not sure how to do that, maybe Alex can tell us how to do that from inside the boat... The mechanic told me that I needed cross over cooling for my seals, my new seals have that now. One thing I did that, I think helped, was use the trim tabs to counter the torque from only one prop turning. I kept the running engine under 2000 RPMs. I was able to start the overheated engine for docking, as Frank W suggested...

 

[RollerCoastr]

Even after a lifetime of boating, my knot skills aren't what they should be. Securing the shaft looks easy on a V-drive: I can wrap a line around the coupler and secure it to something like the opposite motor mount, but the shaft eventually finds a way to spin anyway. I'd like to hear of a smarter way to do it.

Tabs can be useful, particularly when coasting or backing, but you have to think about which tab button controls the tab you want - SeaRay flips 'em.

 

[fwebster]

I cannot stress enough how important it is to shut down one engine then the other to experience your boat's single engine handling characteristics. From reading the above posts, one might get the idea that single engine handling is "no big deal". Every boat is different. Some of the best overall handling Sea Ray turn into absolute monsters when you lose an engine. My boat is a good example........the 450DA will not turn toward the good engine at all, period, unless you coast her into a sideways slide in neutral. Smaller bridge boats can be as bad when you consider the effect wind has on the sail area of the deck house.

On tying off the dead shaft and prop. Sometimes it is necessary, sometimes not. It depends upon the design of the transmission and clutches inside. Read your owners manual to determine what emergency procedures are needed with your particular transmission. I carry an inexpensive 18" aluminum pipe wrench for this purpose. Cinch the jaws on the shaft or coupler and rotate the wrench handle until it contacts the stringer or motor mount and tie it off there.

If you don't want to mess with the above, then just program this number into your cell phone: 800-473 2869 (800-4SEATOW)

 

[rcknecht]

Even after a lifetime of boating, my knot skills aren't what they should be. Securing the shaft looks easy on a V-drive: I can wrap a line around the coupler and secure it to something like the opposite motor mount, but the shaft eventually finds a way to spin anyway. I'd like to hear of a smarter way to do it.

Tabs can be useful, particularly when coasting or backing, but you have to think about which tab button controls the tab you want - SeaRay flips 'em.

As much as I love to bilge dive... When you are in an engine compartment with an engine that just over heated, trying to tie a know around a V-drive coupler on a 310, 330, or 340, you have to be very motivated, skinny and strong... Maybe there is an easier way...:huh: It would be good to know this before you have to do it... :thumbsup:

 

[Alex F]

... Not sure how to do that, maybe Alex can tell us how to do that from inside the boat...

Rod,

I have large adjustable wrench with blue handle, which I use for the props as well as other tasks. I put it on the shaft nut right by the transmission and turn the shaft to the point where the wrench lays against the hull. Then, I used bungee cords (2 was enough) to tie the wrench secured in place, to make sure it doesn’t slip off the nut while underway.

This method would work as a charm for boats that even don’t have cross-over cooling.

Alex

 

[rondds]

What about getting towed in. I've always said if I lose an engine, I'm making the call. Do both shafts need to be secured when being towed in?

 

[Alex F]

Ron,

The problem is that every transmission is different and we don't awlays know for sure if our trany is capable of freewhealing (if that's a correct term). As Frank W. suggested I don't want to find out the hard way. So, it's best to secure the shafts. In the case of limping on a single engine we secure the dead side, but if a boat is being towed I would secure both.

This brings a good point, carrying one big wrench is not enough, we need two, just in case.

 

[rcknecht]

On my 300 DA I limped up the Hudson River on one engine dodging ferry boats, and did not secure the shaft... It had a Borg and Warner transmissions... On my 340 I have gone an hour + on one engine, and my sure seal went... I am not sure if it went form the free wheeling or from the steam from the engine overheating... But I have not had any sign, thank God, of trouble with my Hurth transmission... Now I have new Tides Sure seals that are supposed to operate dry up to 5 knots, and also have cross over cooling...:thumbsup: I think Ron has brought up a good point. It might be best to avoid a tow if you can limp home on one engine, especially if you can not secure both shafts... It is also a good idea to practice driving your boat with one engine, as Frank W suggests... The first time I lost an engine was in NYC harbor, and it nearly wet my pants trying to aviod get hit by crazy Ferries, and other commercial traffic... Docking was a challenge, but fortunately I radioed ahead to the marina I was going to, and my travelling partner met us at the dock and assisted with the docking. This is what make boating fun, getting over challenges (with help from friends) and having stories to share...

 

[rondds]

Still another reason to always have a travel buddy!

I have old fashioned stuffing boxes so I don't think I'd fry a shaft under tow. Not sure about the Hurth 2:1 straight shaft gear. I'd have to check the manual. I wonder if the TOW/BOAT captains get involved in advising or supplying assistance with securing a spinning shaft or shafts? I do have a large pipe wrench (from Harbor Freight) in the bilge but only one.

 

[fwebster]

Don't trust them............they have only a 6 pack license with a towing endorsement and nothing requires them to even understand the systems on their tows.

Where we are, the tow-boat operators are very good at towing, but not so good at taking care of the boat they are towing. If you can get home by yourself, you are likely in better and more caring hands since the kid on the tow-boat just wants to get to the next call and a paycheck.

On the transmission question, I don't profess to know which need to be secured from free-wheeling and which don't. Generally the design of the hydraulic pump and clutches determine that. If the pump is driven off the input shaft and doesn't rotate when the gear is in neutral and the prop free-wheels, then there can be no hydraulic pressure and the clutched are not engaged so there is no risk to the transmission with the shafts rotating ......this is the case on some Hurth-ZF's. You just have to do your homework to see if your transmission is made that way or not.