Disecting a EIM Control Box

[mark guthrie]

I’m getting ready to start the replacement project.

I replaced the keypad about a year ago. And now the starboard EIM seems to be HAVE given up.

So I am going to replace with standard rocker switches and circuit breakers.

A lot of great advice on this post. I Would be interested in talking to anyone who has done this or is thinking about it.

I will also be selling the keypad. Which worked fine. And I would warrantee it.

 

[hughespat57]

Only just saw this how far have you gotten?
We recently discussed this here:
http://www.clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/eim-can-bus-advantages-disadvantages.97361
http://www.clubsearay.com/index.php...ronic-interface-module-eim-replacement.96086/

Bottom line is options are DIY, by new replacement system from SeaRay approx $6000, replacement from FP Marine approx $1500 - $3700
plus possible labor.
SeaRay = very expensive
FPM = better price, but it extends all the power circuits up to the helm (and back) this is a lot of power cable for the Aft EIM in particular.
This could be crowded in the helm for any future repairs or electronic upgrades.

My 300DA is pre-EIM, but in rewiring it I took a similar approach to reduce the power wiring under the helm.
Low power/voltage switches and a relay/circuit breaker box. All off the shelf parts, very inexpensive, maybe $450 plus my time.
And the most expensive part was 20 Carling switches About $200 right there.
It's mixed in here with other electrical I did
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10214499714471188&type=3

If I were to do it again I would start with a rugged Automotive/HD relay fuse box like this:
https://www.waytekwire.com/item/460...hIlZH2wIE18GZhmSyrAmtItCfQCYPr9hoCUEcQAvD_BwE
And the panels such as yours have limited space for Carling style switches I would use smaller like these:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RFPKSKY/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_y-CGFb8DYVVJM
They only control the relay so there is no need for 20 amp Carling switches, the relays draw less than 1 amp (~700 milliamps) each.
This also means the control cable does not need to be 14/16 AWG, I used two pre-fabricated communications cables 24AWG x 15 pin.

Sea Ray does not list the wiring for the 2001 280 Sundancer, but the parts book shows the 2002 is the same EIM part numbers, although the switch panels are different shapes.
I would be interested in fabricating such a system as plug n play as possible to see the feasibility of marketing it.
An Eaton box, plus adaptor harness to the Sea Ray 40 Pin connectors, one or two small plug in cables would run to the helm.

At that end would need to decide how you want to layout switches and how fancy a panel you want.
Backlighting for example would require an engraved laminate which I can not do at this time. But various shops can.

If interested let me know here or by PM.
either way good luck!!
Pat Hughes

 

[ATLTiger97]

I know this thread is a little old. I want to wire a second button for the new horn and not use the searay one. Can I pull power from the side of the EIM where the battery comes in? I will have a fused line coming from the relay.

 

[Henry Boyd]

I know this thread is a little old. I want to wire a second button for the new horn and not use the searay one. Can I pull power from the side of the EIM where the battery comes in? I will have a fused line coming from the relay.

Yes, That is how I powered my navigation electronics on the 280. I was fortunate to have a rocker switch cut out on the helm (single engine, two engine ignition switch cutouts). I used a heavy duty rocker (w same gauge wire) to connect to the main power post on the helm EIM. That connecetd to a Blue Seas fuse block. I also ran a same gauge ground wire to the negative post on the same EIM to create a common ground buss bar.

 

[ATLTiger97]

Yes, That is how I powered my navigation electronics on the 280. I was fortunate to have a rocker switch cut out on the helm (single engine, two engine ignition switch cutouts). I used a heavy duty rocker (w same gauge wire) to connect to the main power post on the helm EIM. That connecetd to a Blue Seas fuse block. I also ran a same gauge ground wire to the negative post on the same EIM to create a common ground buss bar.

Fantastic.

 

[Patrick McClure]

Only just saw this how far have you gotten?
We recently discussed this here:
http://www.clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/eim-can-bus-advantages-disadvantages.97361
http://www.clubsearay.com/index.php...ronic-interface-module-eim-replacement.96086/

Bottom line is options are DIY, by new replacement system from SeaRay approx $6000, replacement from FP Marine approx $1500 - $3700
plus possible labor.
SeaRay = very expensive
FPM = better price, but it extends all the power circuits up to the helm (and back) this is a lot of power cable for the Aft EIM in particular.
This could be crowded in the helm for any future repairs or electronic upgrades.

My 300DA is pre-EIM, but in rewiring it I took a similar approach to reduce the power wiring under the helm.
Low power/voltage switches and a relay/circuit breaker box. All off the shelf parts, very inexpensive, maybe $450 plus my time.
And the most expensive part was 20 Carling switches About $200 right there.
It's mixed in here with other electrical I did
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10214499714471188&type=3

If I were to do it again I would start with a rugged Automotive/HD relay fuse box like this:
https://www.waytekwire.com/item/460...hIlZH2wIE18GZhmSyrAmtItCfQCYPr9hoCUEcQAvD_BwE
And the panels such as yours have limited space for Carling style switches I would use smaller like these:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RFPKSKY/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_y-CGFb8DYVVJM
They only control the relay so there is no need for 20 amp Carling switches, the relays draw less than 1 amp (~700 milliamps) each.
This also means the control cable does not need to be 14/16 AWG, I used two pre-fabricated communications cables 24AWG x 15 pin.

Sea Ray does not list the wiring for the 2001 280 Sundancer, but the parts book shows the 2002 is the same EIM part numbers, although the switch panels are different shapes.
I would be interested in fabricating such a system as plug n play as possible to see the feasibility of marketing it.
An Eaton box, plus adaptor harness to the Sea Ray 40 Pin connectors, one or two small plug in cables would run to the helm.

At that end would need to decide how you want to layout switches and how fancy a panel you want.
Backlighting for example would require an engraved laminate which I can not do at this time. But various shops can.

If interested let me know here or by PM.
either way good luck!!
Pat Hughes

Only just saw this how far have you gotten?
We recently discussed this here:
http://www.clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/eim-can-bus-advantages-disadvantages.97361
http://www.clubsearay.com/index.php...ronic-interface-module-eim-replacement.96086/

Bottom line is options are DIY, by new replacement system from SeaRay approx $6000, replacement from FP Marine approx $1500 - $3700
plus possible labor.
SeaRay = very expensive
FPM = better price, but it extends all the power circuits up to the helm (and back) this is a lot of power cable for the Aft EIM in particular.
This could be crowded in the helm for any future repairs or electronic upgrades.

My 300DA is pre-EIM, but in rewiring it I took a similar approach to reduce the power wiring under the helm.
Low power/voltage switches and a relay/circuit breaker box. All off the shelf parts, very inexpensive, maybe $450 plus my time.
And the most expensive part was 20 Carling switches About $200 right there.
It's mixed in here with other electrical I did
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10214499714471188&type=3

If I were to do it again I would start with a rugged Automotive/HD relay fuse box like this:
https://www.waytekwire.com/item/460...hIlZH2wIE18GZhmSyrAmtItCfQCYPr9hoCUEcQAvD_BwE
And the panels such as yours have limited space for Carling style switches I would use smaller like these:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RFPKSKY/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_y-CGFb8DYVVJM
They only control the relay so there is no need for 20 amp Carling switches, the relays draw less than 1 amp (~700 milliamps) each.
This also means the control cable does not need to be 14/16 AWG, I used two pre-fabricated communications cables 24AWG x 15 pin.

Sea Ray does not list the wiring for the 2001 280 Sundancer, but the parts book shows the 2002 is the same EIM part numbers, although the switch panels are different shapes.
I would be interested in fabricating such a system as plug n play as possible to see the feasibility of marketing it.
An Eaton box, plus adaptor harness to the Sea Ray 40 Pin connectors, one or two small plug in cables would run to the helm.

At that end would need to decide how you want to layout switches and how fancy a panel you want.
Backlighting for example would require an engraved laminate which I can not do at this time. But various shops can.

If interested let me know here or by PM.
either way good luck!!
Pat Hughes

How did this work out for you, sir. I have the same problem on my 2002 280. We just replaced the block, and after one break in ride I lost all the controls on the right side of the steering wheel. Any ideas? products (it sounded like you were thinking of marketing yours), or other advice?

 

[Cpieloch]

Just in case anyone is looking to replace their EIM system, Kinequip is making a system only sold by Sea Ray dealers, and it is warranted for 5 years. It’s a bit pricey, but is truly plug and play.