Blink Marine Electronic Interface Module (EIM) Replacement

argus1

Member
Apr 12, 2015
196
Apollo Beach, FL
Boat Info
2011 350 Sundancer
Engines
MerCruiser 377 MAG ECT w/Bravo III Drives, Axius
Recently I contacted Blink Marine in Italy to ascertain if they could develop a replacement for the Electronic Interface Modules (EIM), Part Numbers: 1810628 (Forward) and 1970606 (AFT). A little background: Blink Marine brought the US supplier of the Sea Ray EIMs; however, Blink decided not keep the Sea Ray EIMs in their inventory therefore there is no availability of these parts. I am told that there is new supplier (Kinequip) for the new Sea Ray replacement parts that cost $6000.00 from the dealer. Blink Marine had me ship my port and starboard dash keypads and both the forward and aft EIMS to Italy. I have now received the new Blink Marine PC20 system to replace my forward and aft EIMs. The brains of the of the Blink system are two Blink Marine PC20 POWERCORE Management Enclosures (see the Blink brochure attached).

I have also attached the system documentation and the pictures of the PC20 EIM replacements that Blink sent me. The complete system was not inexpensive but the overall cost is a lot is less than half of any of the other solutions currently available; and this system is pull and play. The hardest part of the installation is getting to the front EIM bolts because of no space under the dash. If you interested contact Blink Marine at: info@blinkgroup.com.

(this was edited to correctly reflect that the new Sea Ray System is made by Kinequip. You can see the documentation of the Kinequip System at http://www.clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/what-is-an-eim-worth.95069/page-4#post-1100142 post #71)
 

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Update - The system that I received from Blink Marine is not recommended. I removed it and put back in my original EIM. The Blink system was too erratic and unreliable. Most concerning is that hatch lift would not close with the Blink system installed. At least with my original EIM, I can use boat during the day and in good weather. I just got to watch the weather forecasts before going out. My major problem is that navigation lights do not come on reliably with my original EIM. So much trying to be a trailblazer; it much better follow the trail that is well travelled.
 
Since you have invested a considerable amount of time, effort and funds my I ask a few questions and provide a few thoughts before you give up?
First background I do not have to deal with EIMs personally I have a 1994 300DA. But I am a retired USCG Machinery Technician, former ASE certified Master Heavy Truck Technician and currently a Senior Systems Engineer (computers). I have completely rewired my 300 with a low voltage controls and relay master panel. In essence an EIM. I however chose all Common Off the Shelf (COS) components. Not counting my labor I have maybe $500-600 in everything.
This eliminated a huge amount of under helm power wiring, which gave me room for all kinds of new toys wiring.

Now to your system
You sent them your panels, I am assuming they sent back the same panels? Or did they fabricate new panels? This is important.
What exactly are the "erratic" and "unreliable" behaviors?
Like the hatch did it work originally after installation? And now it wont go down?

The reason I ask is IF you have the original panels still, here is what Blink may have done:
1. They hooked up your panels and scanned the CAN bus codes coming from each function (each button press)
The codes for each button are programmed into the chips in the control panels themselves.
2. They fabricated the cable convertor wiring for their box connectors to the original Sea Ray harness.
3. Then they programmed their controler for appropriate switching response to each CAN code, set the per circuit current limits and CAN feed back response codes (CAN signal to turn on the correct Switch LED indicators, etc.)

so IF it is still your original Sea Ray panels
and
IF it worked consistently when you first installed it
then
it very well could be the panel buttons and panel electronics is failing also, having followed a number of EIM threads this is also a common issue.
the controllers may be fine.
 
I just found most of the answers in the other thread...
 
Since you have invested a considerable amount of time, effort and funds my I ask a few questions and provide a few thoughts before you give up?
First background I do not have to deal with EIMs personally I have a 1994 300DA. But I am a retired USCG Machinery Technician, former ASE certified Master Heavy Truck Technician and currently a Senior Systems Engineer (computers). I have completely rewired my 300 with a low voltage controls and relay master panel. In essence an EIM. I however chose all Common Off the Shelf (COS) components. Not counting my labor I have maybe $500-600 in everything.
This eliminated a huge amount of under helm power wiring, which gave me room for all kinds of new toys wiring.

Now to your system
You sent them your panels, I am assuming they sent back the same panels? Or did they fabricate new panels? This is important.
What exactly are the "erratic" and "unreliable" behaviors?
Like the hatch did it work originally after installation? And now it wont go down?

The reason I ask is IF you have the original panels still, here is what Blink may have done:
1. They hooked up your panels and scanned the CAN bus codes coming from each function (each button press)
The codes for each button are programmed into the chips in the control panels themselves.
2. They fabricated the cable convertor wiring for their box connectors to the original Sea Ray harness.
3. Then they programmed their controler for appropriate switching response to each CAN code, set the per circuit current limits and CAN feed back response codes (CAN signal to turn on the correct Switch LED indicators, etc.)

so IF it is still your original Sea Ray panels
and
IF it worked consistently when you first installed it
then
it very well could be the panel buttons and panel electronics is failing also, having followed a number of EIM threads this is also a common issue.
the controllers may be fine.

Thanks for taking the time to write detailed inquiry. Yes, Blink sent me back the original keypads. With Blink system installed the hatch would go up but not down and other problems occurred with the lights. However, after removing the Blink system, I re-installed the original Sea Ray EIMs. With the original Sea Ray EIMs installed the hatch operates reliably which allows me to use the boat on sunny days which in Florida we have a lot. I don't have working lights with the Sea Ray EIMs so I can't operate the boat at night or at times of low visibility, and I will not pass a Coast Guard inspection. I have replaced the keypads twice before and this would have been the third time for keypads. Incidentally, when I disconnect the EIMs from the wiring harness and reinstall them everything works, lights and all; but at sometime later everything goes haywire again; lights work sometime, sometimes not. The problem in not having reliable navigation lights is that often I can go out into the bay on a sunny day and be caught in a sudden summer storm. There had been several occasions when I had cross the main shipping channel in Tampa Bay, sky getting dark and I had no working navigation lights. At any moment in the bay, there could be large cargo ships or cruise liners. Don't want to experience that again. In the summer, which is our rainy season, we can have afternoon thunderstorms daily. Life is way to short - I want to be able to use my boat and be safe while I am doing it.

It appears to me the best option is to simply things to something that I can understand.

And thank you for service. I am retired Army.
 
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I agree simplicity
The FP Marine solution is "simple" but my problem with it is that it adds a lot of power wiring up to the console switch panels and back to a breaker panel that replaces the EIM (traditional wiring).
Your helm consoles are smaller than mine, and I felt mine were to crowded with breakers, switches and wiring.

I looked at a variety of EIM type solutions that are generic, by a number of heavy equipment venders.
But all are still complex, like Blink, they depend on programed CAN switches.

I chose to develop a system for low voltage/current 5v switched to ground for the helm panel and a remote mounted circuit breaker and relay box. Since on a 300DA most of the wiring goes thru the starboard side I located it there.
I have documented in a facebook album the fabrication, I need to go back and add some photos of the final installation.
Having learned from the work I would make some technical changes in how I configured the low voltage circuits but a phase 2 design would be fundamentally the same.
As documented in the photo contents it is based on low cost SainSmart relay boards about $15 each.
I have now found some automotive relay boards I would likely use if I did it again. heavier duty and plugable relays.

https://www.facebook.com/HughesPat57/media_set?set=a.10214499714471188&type=3
 
I agree simplicity
The FP Marine solution is "simple" but my problem with it is that it adds a lot of power wiring up to the console switch panels and back to a breaker panel that replaces the EIM (traditional wiring).
Your helm consoles are smaller than mine, and I felt mine were to crowded with breakers, switches and wiring.

Your work is impressive. All that I can saw is WOW!!. Yes the helm console is crowded and there is a bird nest of wiring under it. I wish that I find a way to organize it so that I can troubleshoot wiring problems. Everytime that I go in there to do something, I pull a wire out of the Sea Ray fuse block, then have a hard time finding it and figuring out where it goes. The LED buttons look great but unfortunately, I do not process your skill set so I am going have to go with an off the shelf system. After all, what I learnt from 20-years in the Army is "KISS" Keep It Simple Stupid.

I think the panels done by New Wire Marine https://newwiremarine.com/projects/
 
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p.s.
I used full size marine switches as I liked the traditional look and feel
On your mini consoles you could easily use small high tech led/button switches, they will only handle milliamp currents to activate a relay. Something like these.
https://www.amazon.com/Linkstyle-In...+push+button+waterproof&qid=1587132484&sr=8-6

Hughespat,
I have a 2001 280 with the original EIM’s. Everything is fine now. I am worried I will be facing this as well one day.
From what I understand, the FP Marine system is simple and reliable, but just uses the full load amp wires through the helm switches. Your setup uses low amp wires and remote relays to accomplish the same job, with much less wire clutter under the helm.
Is my understanding correct?
 
Correct
The low voltage signals are carried by two 15 pin data cables they plus a set of 16awg for 12v+ and ground are all that connect the panel and box
In the 15 pin cables one wire is ground shield so effectively I have 28 circuits I can configure on the two cables
 
I have thrown this out one other time on these forums. If anyone happened to have a working or semi-working spare keypad I would be interested in essentially what Blink did and map the CAN messages - except make it open source. That way we could have a small microcontroller (think Arduino) and essentially connect only 4 wires to a relay module like hughespat57 created. I'm sure there are enough semi-technical people on these forums that could help create a replacement system, or find ways to debug and fix existing issues. But in my mind, it all starts with understanding the existing communication bus. If its too complex, it might not be doable without the original documentation, but I assume it's fairly basic CAN messages, which I have debugging tools for.

Does anyone know who owns the hardware/code. Perhaps they would release some communication documentation about it?

If anyone has any semi-working hardware, that could be borrowed, please let me know. I'm sure it's a long shot, but I bet there are semi-broken units out there that would be perfect for this.
 
I have thrown this out one other time on these forums. If anyone happened to have a working or semi-working spare keypad I would be interested in essentially what Blink did and map the CAN messages - except make it open source. That way we could have a small microcontroller (think Arduino) and essentially connect only 4 wires to a relay module like hughespat57 created. I'm sure there are enough semi-technical people on these forums that could help create a replacement system, or find ways to debug and fix existing issues. But in my mind, it all starts with understanding the existing communication bus. If its too complex, it might not be doable without the original documentation, but I assume it's fairly basic CAN messages, which I have debugging tools for.

Does anyone know who owns the hardware/code. Perhaps they would release some communication documentation about it?

If anyone has any semi-working hardware, that could be borrowed, please let me know. I'm sure it's a long shot, but I bet there are semi-broken units out there that would be perfect for this.

Sounds interesting. I was told that Blink Marine acquired the company that produced the original parts but did not keep the EIM in their inventory. DNA Group Inc reports on their website they sold a portion of their business in 2015. Blink told me that they also did not retain the software code for the system. There must be some challenges in reverse engineering the system. I plan to send my EIMs and the replacement Blink system back to have Blink to troubleshoot the system to get it working correctly. Of course I will let everyone know how it goes.
 
If blink can resolve the programing issues for their pc20 boxes it would be reasonably priced and be plug an play.
That would probably be the best solution for existing EIM based Sea Rays.
You could still have switch panel issues but those are currently still available.

I looked at Eaton and Buss electronic circuit panels but they cost over $1500
And then you still have the programming issues.

An Arduino plus SainSmart boards plus breakers would work to retain the current panels but you would need the CAN codes
Simple switches removes any software programing requirement
In fact mine is programable I can make any switch control any relay but its a simple pc board with wire wraps that cross a given switch to a given relay.
I have some unassigned relays if one went bad I can just change the jumper and move the wiring to a spare relay
 
If you talk to Blink, ask them if they have any existing documentation or would share the CAN command codes. Since you are somewhat helping them - you are in the best position to ask them for a favor :)

Let us know how it goes.

One other thought: You should be able to splice into the output of the nav lights and wire an external switch to +12VDC. Even if that switch was in the engine room for now.
 
Thank you all for sharing your experiences.

I'm having the same problem in my 2007 280DA. The PORT keypad is intermittent. After trying to get support from many sources, I think it may be faster to roll up the sleeves and dive in myself.

I have a deep background in electronics design and debugging. I want to attempt to fix it by diagnosing the actual root-cause of the failure, as I believe the actual problem likely has a very simple solution. One reason I want to attempt to understand the problem, is that I will enjoy the challenge and will likely learn something that will be useful for my own purposes and possibly for other members of the forum. In order to do that, I want to set up a set of keypads, a hub, and FWD and AFT EIMs on an electronics workbench so that I can study how the system operates. I don't want to take these components out of my boat (yet), because the boat mostly works and I have installed "work-around" solutions that allow me to keep using the boat. Once I understand how the system operates on the workbench, I will then be equipped to diagnose (and hopefully fix) the same parts in the boat.

I'm reaching out to the forum to ask if any of you who have replaced your keypads, hub, and EIMs with an aftermarket solution would be willing to give/sell/loan your old stuff to me. I'd prefer a working set (possibly by gathering multiple sets from multiple people and using only the good elements to create a working set), but would appreciate parts in any condition. In exchange for your willingness to help, I'll share what I learn.
 

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Sounds interesting. I was told that Blink Marine acquired the company that produced the original parts but did not keep the EIM in their inventory. DNA Group Inc reports on their website they sold a portion of their business in 2015. Blink told me that they also did not retain the software code for the system. There must be some challenges in reverse engineering the system. I plan to send my EIMs and the replacement Blink system back to have Blink to troubleshoot the system to get it working correctly. Of course I will let everyone know how it goes.
Argus1 - was Blink ever able to troubleshoot and fix the issues?
 
Got to laugh at these so called hi-tech systems in todays boats. There is nothing wrong with a hard wired system vs electronic keypads. My `85 still uses some original switches without fail.
There was a company who supplied a complete hard wired panel that plugged into the EIM`s plug.Expensive but 100% reliable connection to the equipment
 
I have 2 of the PC210 Powercore modules, brandnew in the box with manuals and buttons. If anyone needs a new replacement. Power Core
 

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