Dead Windlass!

Doc O Rock

Doc O Rock

Active Member
Mar 23, 2016
448
Belle Maer Harbor, North Channel Yacht Club
Boat Info
1999 380 Sundancer
Engines
twin 7.4 Merc
We went to one of our favorite anchorages yesterday and no response from the windlass. I checked the circuit breaker in engine room but it wasn't tripped. It's like there is no power to the switch on the dash I checked the in-line fuse in the chain locker and it was ok. What am I missing? It seems like I'm missing something simple. On the other hand, now I know I need a simple emergency anchor.
 
Mine has a push bottom reset under the dash on Forward EIM panel. I assume you will have something as well, but perhaps different location.
 
I've encountered this issue twice - most recently, last week! The same failure has been responsible in both cases! In my instances, the 120 amp breaker (a Klixon CDLM 120) for the windlass in the engine room panel failed. This part has been superseded by the SDLM 120 which represents to have the same specs and mounting holes. The first time this happened, I was able to find a CDLM 120 but not recently. When the second failure occurred, I asked the marine electrician who diagnosed these issues about a larger breaker and he said "OK" so I've ordered an SDLM 150 from www.carbonbrush.com. I'm not too excited about upping the breaker spec but the advice was that no safety issues would occur. I'd appreciate comments on that.

Check the breaker - your windlass may be fine (mine was) and a breaker is far less expensive and complicated than other issues that could occur.
 
A friend of mine exercises his windlass periodically, to prevent what he calls "flat spotting" of the windlass motor. According to him, if a motor is left in one position for too long, the armature can freeze in position electrically. I don't know that this can actually happen, but he installs boat lifts and says he has been on service calls many times when the lack of use caused the motor to not start. By manually moving the motor, he could get it to start up again.
 
Happened to us on our 480 Sedan Bridge. Turned out to be an electrical post on the winch motor had broken off due to over zealous tie strapping by someone at the factory. An $80 repair at the local starter shop.
 
Have to ask. Does it work from the bow using the foot switches? If so, the dash switch is the problem. That was my situation. It turned out to be a loose connection at the dash.

Mark
 
CLC3 said:
I've encountered this issue twice - most recently, last week! The same failure has been responsible in both cases! In my instances, the 120 amp breaker (a Klixon CDLM 120) for the windlass in the engine room panel failed. This part has been superseded by the SDLM 120 which represents to have the same specs and mounting holes. The first time this happened, I was able to find a CDLM 120 but not recently. When the second failure occurred, I asked the marine electrician who diagnosed these issues about a larger breaker and he said "OK" so I've ordered an SDLM 150 from www.carbonbrush.com. I'm not too excited about upping the breaker spec but the advice was that no safety issues would occur. I'd appreciate comments on that.

Check the breaker - your windlass may be fine (mine was) and a breaker is far less expensive and complicated than other issues that could occur.
Click to expand...
Up sizing a breaker is not a problem as long as the wire it is feeding can handle the total amperage of that breaker.If the wire is under sized it will not be able to handle the amperage of the breaker and will over heat and the insulation could get hot enough to burn in the case of a heavy load or a short to ground.Remember a main breaker is made to protect the wire not the component.
 
Our boat has the solenoids in the anchor locker. They are separate for Up and Down. Our down stopped working and I flicked the helm control switch many times and it worked.
The electrician at the marina said I should change it all to single solenoid and different foot switches.
I assume the old solenoids are mechanical and corrode/wear out over time.
The parts to change out are under 500 but the labour to put them in looks like a day.
 
I am not familiar with your model, but have had a similar thing with mine. First question is more about your setup. Do you have a power switch that activates the power to the windlass switch? Meaning the windlass operates off an up down or rocker switch and there is another switch that provides power to the up/down switch?

If so, then is the power switch lighting up or is there no power to the switch?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I "reactivated" mine by pressing the "Down" foot switch for about 10 seconds.......
 
CLC3 said:
I've encountered this issue twice - most recently, last week! The same failure has been responsible in both cases! In my instances, the 120 amp breaker (a Klixon CDLM 120) for the windlass in the engine room panel failed. This part has been superseded by the SDLM 120 which represents to have the same specs and mounting holes. The first time this happened, I was able to find a CDLM 120 but not recently. When the second failure occurred, I asked the marine electrician who diagnosed these issues about a larger breaker and he said "OK" so I've ordered an SDLM 150 from www.carbonbrush.com. I'm not too excited about upping the breaker spec but the advice was that no safety issues would occur. I'd appreciate comments on that.

Check the breaker - your windlass may be fine (mine was) and a breaker is far less expensive and complicated than other issues that could occur.
Click to expand...
I checked the breaker, and 12 volts input, no out put, so the breaker it is. Breaker on the way.
 
In my two cases no, hence the replacements.
 
I sometimes have a similar issue. I'll start using it and it will stop moving the chain. This usually happens on the way up. I have to wait for a small amount of time and I can start again from the helm. If it won't move then I can go to the foot switch and it will work from there most of the times. We think in my case it could be the battery, we think.
 
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