Considering a 1989 Sundancer 268 project, any tips?

C

Cuda14

New Member
Mar 9, 2021
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Hey everyone - gonna try to keep this short (didn't happen) as to not waste anyone's time.

Looking at a 1989 Sea Ray Sundancer 268 for what I feel is an unbeatable price (seriously) and I'm looking for a new project. It definitely needs some work. Trying to gauge what I would be in store for getting her safe and reliable. This would be my first boat but not my SO, she's Skipper. I have fair mechanical skills; worked on engines, motors, cars, trucks, motorcycles, etc. I have access to tools, space, and help as well. My primary objective is to get the boat water worthy and then begin more secondary restoration efforts on my own time. If it doesn't work out, I didn't waste a lot of money and I probably learn some things along the way.

Here's what seller says:
  • Boat in storage for 8+ years, he's owned for 1.5 years
  • All bellows in lower unit should be replaced
    • Me: three bellows on this boat, correct? I believe I'm up to this task while the boat is on blocks
  • Fishing tower mount at 1 location is broken fiberglass
    • Me: could remove and deal with later, patch. some sort of brace could also work temporarily?
  • Rub rail on starboard side, some damage
    • Me: waiting to investigate more
  • Electrolysis has eaten some of the skeg and outer lower unit but "in his opinion", it is cosmetic at this point and can be stopped by installing new zinc plating
    • Me: replace skeg, clean lower unit and see where I'm at from there? tips for removing corrosion? it looks pretty bad from the one photo.
  • Water pump impeller needs replacing
    • Me: impeller is DIY job, believe I am up to the task
Other considerations that I've noted from pictures:
  • pictures show interior is a bit dingy. I plan to check for moisture/mold/leaks. I think the windows on these older Sea Ray's are prone to leaking but I think I can DIY repair/mitigate

  • 454 looks like it might be leaking oil from somewhere. Primarily, I notice grime under the engine on the port side. If I view the boat in person, will investigate further.
Hoping someone can tell me if I'm thinking along the right lines for these repairs or if I'm missing something, other things to consider, etc.

Boat would be used on a small river primarily, nothing rigorous.

I really appreciate your time and thanks in advance. Pics below (waiting on more, going to see in person later in week).







 
Lots of folks here should be able to give feedback on the outdrive. I'd guess it's marginally DIY-easy? That lower unit is a beast to remove and work on. Single-handed will require some planing and skill.

I wonder if that's moisture damage in the master state room, port side all the way forward on the ceiling? Walk the deck. If it's soft and spongy it's got some rot.

She'll need some bottom paint and batteries I'd guess.

I'd want to hear the motor run. I'd also want to know exactly where the oil is coming from. I assume the current owner is hesitant to put the boat in the water with leaking bellows? Could make a proper sea trail challenging...
 
Thanks to you both for speedy replies. Let me give some more details that I probably should have included initially.
  • Seller claims paperwork says boat was last on water 2010
  • Seller says engine was fogged and winterized (I have no idea when)
    • claims engine has compression, turns over, and builds oil pressure but that he hasn't started it since owning.
  • States the same about fuel tank, drained and dry (will try and confirm)
  • Reason for selling: seller claims he bought boat in order to explore cruising ICW with his SO. If all went well, they were going to upgrade to something bigger for more travel. Something health related came up and has apparently stopped those plans. He sold the boat to a fishing company (out of state) in 2019 but that CV19 disrupted their plans. They're now having him resell it on their behalf.
    • How accurate is this? Who knows.
    • Point is - no one currently involved has seen the boat on water.

JimG said:
Looks pretty good for an 89'. I think you're on the right track. I would also be concerned with the fuel condition since it's been sitting for 8 years. Also look at the oil for water intrusion.

Some reading for you:
http://www.clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/268da-and-weekenders.24866/

Best of luck and welcome to CSR!
Click to expand...

Thank you! I went through most that thread last night, super insightful. I was considering posting this over there but wasn't sure if appropriate. Club Sea Ray has some beautiful vessels on here... been lurking.

Stee6043 said:
Lots of folks here should be able to give feedback on the outdrive. I'd guess it's marginally DIY-easy? That lower unit is a beast to remove and work on. Single-handed will require some planing and skill.

I wonder if that's moisture damage in the master state room, port side all the way forward on the ceiling? Walk the deck. If it's soft and spongy it's got some rot.

She'll need some bottom paint and batteries I'd guess.

I'd want to hear the motor run. I'd also want to know exactly where the oil is coming from. I assume the current owner is hesitant to put the boat in the water with leaking bellows? Could make a proper sea trail challenging...
Click to expand...

I should be able to procure extra hands without issue, might need beer.

I see the stain you're talking about. I also noticed what could be some damage around the port window in the other picture, wondering if it could be related. I will check into this when I look at it in person. I think if it's rotted, I should walk away. I'm already planning to do the bottom paint, thanks for helping re-affirm. Worried about how much prepping prior to paint will be needed.

Plan is to inspect engine as much as possible (I hear you on narrowing down oil leak exactly, will be doing that)... because of asking price though, if engine is winterized, I doubt he will want to prep and fire it up for me. Same deal with the sea trial. Likely, if I buy, I will be hauling it off his property and onto blocks either at my house or at the marina. Planning on doing repairs at that time.

With all of that said, I feel as if this is a double edged sword
  • the asking price is either indicative of potentially critical albeit non-apparent issues
  • or it's the result of a series of unfortunate events and this is a solid opportunity.
While my SO and I prefer something turn key, purchasing a boat wasn't in our immediate plans and this fell in our lap. If this is a good opportunity - why not??
 
Asking price?
Not factory tower, probably why glass cracked at mounts.
What small river? I see it’s an MD boat, probably Bay used.
Nice AC.
You are not going to want to trailer this boat, it’s big, get a slip, hence the small river question.
Cockpit vinyl looks good from what I can see.
Had 2 268’s. ‘87 & ‘89.
 
PS. If you get it don’t be in hurry to get it wet. Take summer to get it in 100% shape, then next year you will have a boat you can take out with confidence.
 
Pirate Lady said:
Asking price?
Not factory tower, probably why glass cracked at mounts.
What small river? I see it’s an MD boat, probably Bay used.
Nice AC.
You are not going to want to trailer this boat, it’s big, get a slip, hence the small river question.
Cockpit vinyl looks good from what I can see.
Had 2 268’s. ‘87 & ‘89.
Click to expand...

Asking: $3000
Plan to try and buy for $2000-2500. I have a feeling seller will negotiate since the boat is on his property and the people he's selling it for are out of state, for all I know he never signed over the title.

James River. I'm out of Richmond.

Not talking about the AC til I see it working. ;)

Agreed on trailering, I don't have the right hauler anyway. There are a few marinas local to Richmond that I planned on doing blocks for repairs and then keeping it in the slip.
 
PSS. Good you have wrench skills, will need it, main difference in boats is everything is bigger, heavier, and crammed in tighter spaces, than cars, trucks, mc, etc.
 
As Stee said, don’t rebuild your own outdrive, get a rebuilt or pay to have it done. Look, that thing is submerged 24/7. Any water intrusion will destroy it. The least little O-ring not seated properly will turn it into a grenade. Let the pros do it.
 
Cuda14 said:
Asking: $3000
Plan to try and buy for $2000-2500. I have a feeling seller will negotiate since the boat is on his property and the people he's selling it for are out of state, for all I know he never signed over the title.

James River. I'm out of Richmond.

Not talking about the AC til I see it working. ;)

Agreed on trailering, I don't have the right hauler anyway. There are a few marinas local to Richmond that I planned on doing blocks for repairs and then keeping it in the slip.
Click to expand...
Get back with any questions. Having 2 268 over 25 years there’s prolly not much I don’t know about them.
 
#1 - I would make absolutely sure the transom and stringers are not rotted - that is fatal for this boat - The transom and stringers are made of wood, surrounded by fiberglass - water gets in where the outdrive cutout is, or where any holes are drilled - if the wood rots (very common) the structural integrity of the boat goes away.......also check the foredeck for soft spots around the hatches, anchor chute, etc - MANY of these boats are wet and not worth the time/money to fix
 
Ididntdoit said:
#1 - I would make absolutely sure the transom and stringers are not rotted - that is fatal for this boat - The transom and stringers are made of wood, surrounded by fiberglass - water gets in where the outdrive cutout is, or where any holes are drilled - if the wood rots (very common) the structural integrity of the boat goes away.......also check the foredeck for soft spots around the hatches, anchor chute, etc - MANY of these boats are wet and not worth the time/money to fix
Click to expand...
Agree, I heard stories about this. Maybe that’s why it was SeaRay biggest selling model 87 - 89 and hardly any available today.
 
Ok. Spend a few dollars ($175) and get a GRP33plus from here. http://www.electrophysics.on.ca/

Check the transom and deck good for moisture. If the meter pegs, you have a problem. It's a relative reading, so find a dry spot and work from there. Confirm the wet areas with a small hammer sounding for voids. If the transom is wet, you have an eventual safety problem -- eventually you're outdrive will "pull" the transom off. Check the stringers too. You'll probably see some movement in the meter which is normal. But anything excessive, then you have to check your sanity. It's a big fix.

The mechanical stuff is an easier fix. Figure dry seals in the outdrive, engine may need some work depending how good it was stored. Fuel tank probably has water in it from several seasons of condensation, so don't just dump gas in there. Clean it up first.

Remember, the only thing that works on an old boat is the the owner. Good luck.
 
Ididntdoit said:
#1 - I would make absolutely sure the transom and stringers are not rotted - that is fatal for this boat - The transom and stringers are made of wood, surrounded by fiberglass - water gets in where the outdrive cutout is, or where any holes are drilled - if the wood rots (very common) the structural integrity of the boat goes away.......also check the foredeck for soft spots around the hatches, anchor chute, etc - MANY of these boats are wet and not worth the time/money to fix
Click to expand...

If the boat has been sitting for 10+ years, there's a good chance these areas, although potentially rotted, would appear dry nowadays. I've read about ways to check for moisture in the stringers but don't think I'll be able to drill any holes during a viewing. The seller states he believes the wood is good.

It's likely going to be in that same driveway still. My plan was to walk on decks and look for soft spots, as recommended and then as far as hull/stern/transom go... bang away some and hear how she sounds?

Any tips for checking when I go in-person?

EDIT: S.O. just gave me some good news.. she has a FLIR MR40 from work... think this may work? Going to look into if it'll be viable. :)

PS: 600 hours on 7.4L 454. Hopefully that leak isn't serious.
 
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Oil leak port side, that’s where the hoses run to the remote oil filter, maybe simple. We hope. Could be a spill from taking off the filter. Least of your issues. Get the AC working first. All else is minor. Wife just told me tell you that!
 
Just received more pics, although not as many as I asked for... Low price is revealing itself, but I was anticipating some of this...

I want to talk about this first picture primarily. Note the tower mount, it's caved the entire mount into the fiberglass.
  • Is the caved in mount a sign that perhaps things are soft and soggy?
    Seems one thing for the mount to break, but to cave in like that? What do you think Pirate Lady?

  • Hull - am I looking at multiple layers of bottom paint? or/and some corrosion?

  • Panels - they look ROUGH.. but should be replaceable. Cosmetics are cosmetics... as long as this isn't a sign of serious issues in more critical areas.
20210309_145706.jpg
20210309_145637.jpg
20210309_145630.jpg

20210309_145623.jpg
 
Meant to add, probably will be viewing on Friday. Can get exactly pictures I want then. Also have gonna plan out how to use the FLIR MR40.
 
Arch - I would remove. Original arch had extra wood and aluminum plates to support it. Doubt this has it. Ditch arch, use West fiberglass product to patch.
Those are not original seats. Was a bench.
Side vinyl- small potatos. Check with local boat upholstery shop about fix.
Bottom paint- he prolly used a hard paint like Interlux that builds up instead of Woolsey ablative that sloughs off. Ya sand it off, then use Wolsey.
You mention cave in. Sorry can’t see from pics what you mean.
 
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