clarification on "bypassing hot water heater" + leaving antifreeze in vs. draining

[rpasquarello]

Re: clarification on "bypassing hot water heater" + leaving antifreeze in vs. drainin

Jim,

I hope to get to mine today or no later than tomorrow to get the wrap off and reconnect. I have pleanty room. Look forward to the pics.

Thanks for the update.

Rocco

 

[Lazy Daze]

Re: clarification on "bypassing hot water heater" + leaving antifreeze in vs. drainin

Guys,

Which of these two kits would be the better way to go? They are relatively inexpensive and are ony about $10 apart in price.

http://www.amazon.com/Camco-35983-Quick-Permanent-By-Pass/dp/B0006JJ57Y/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

http://www.amazon.com/Camco-35953-Supreme-Permanent-By-Pass/dp/B000BQUJL8/ref=pd_rhf_cr_p_t_2_KG8H



Is this accessory worth it, too?

http://www.amazon.com/Camco-36543-Pump-Converter-Winterizing/dp/B0006JJ588/ref=pd_bxgy_auto_img_y

-Rocco-

The second and third link are what I have. I guess I must have ordered the NPT to 15mm 90* adapter somewhere else (probably just one of my suppliers, although that particular part is not hard to find).

 

[rpasquarello]

Re: clarification on "bypassing hot water heater" + leaving antifreeze in vs. drainin

Dennis,

Any idea what the difference is between the two kits in the links? I'm unfamiliar with the connectors and want to make sure that I get the right ones. What is that third (non-valve) brass piece used for and where does it connect?
Rocco

 

[Lazy Daze]

Re: clarification on "bypassing hot water heater" + leaving antifreeze in vs. drainin

Rocco, I have never looked at that particular setup before you posted the link. But, just looking through the description, it appears it is simply a nylon T connector. The "straight" brass connector must be the backflow preventer they're referring to. The backflow preventer would screw into the hot water/out of the tank, then the T connector attaches to that. This would enable bypassing the tank with only one valve. My only question would pertain to the reliability and feasibility of the backflow preventer, but I don't have any actual experience with it to say any more than that - it's just a question that is raised in my head.

With whichever kit you decide on, the only other things you'll need are the appropriate connectors (like the black ones in my picture) to go from the pipe connection of the Camco pieces to either 1/2" or 15mm (check your line) slip. I think you'll also use 90*, like mine, but double check. Like Henry said above, FreshWaterSystems is an easy place to buy this stuff - but if you have 1/2" lines, you can probably even get the right fitting from a local hardware store.

HOWEVER, if you do have 1/2" lines, you can just get a 3-way bypass valve (Sea Tech, Inc, for example - or maybe even at a local hardware store) that has (3) 1/2" inlets. You don't need to remove the straight fitting from your tank for those. Just add a section of 1/2" line to connect the 3-way valves together, and then a very short section of 1/2" line (about 2-1/2") to connect each 3-way valve to your current fitting.

 

[Lazy Daze]

Re: clarification on "bypassing hot water heater" + leaving antifreeze in vs. drainin

Rocco... just though of something... what type of fittings do you have on your tank - are they screw-on (they might be with your model year)? Can you post a picture of your tank? Or PM it to me so we don't hijack too much.

FYI... in your signature... 240"SD" means "Sundeck". You have a 240"DA". Also, do you have a single prop? I've never seen your model with a single prop. I "think" you meant to say that you have a Bravo 3? No worries about any of this - just mentioning it for your own sake in the future.

 

[rpasquarello]

Re: clarification on "bypassing hot water heater" + leaving antifreeze in vs. drainin

Dennis,

I took pics today and will download to laptop and email to you. I fixed signature, too. I do have a Bravo1 (stinks getting onto plane) and have screw on connectors on the HW tank I added Neutra Salt System as it came raw water cooled and was way too expensive to add FWC after the sale.

Rocco

 

[Bottom Line]

Re: clarification on "bypassing hot water heater" + leaving antifreeze in vs. drainin

Here is a permanent by-pass set-up I installed. Basically you have a ball valve at the cold water inlet and a ball valve at the hot water outlet. Then you put a by-pass line connecting the two (hot and cold water line) with a ball valve. Under normal operation, the 2 valves at the inlet and the outlet stay open and the cross over valve stays closed. When winterizing you shut the valves at the inlet and outlet and open the by- pass valve. This allow the antitfreeze to by pass the hot water heater and fill the hot water lines. Open the hot water heater drain and pressure relief valve. The beauty of this set up is ther is no removal of any hoses.. Makes life easy......


View attachment 29747View attachment 29748

Slick set up. Is your HWH in your bilge?

 

[cod]

Re: clarification on "bypassing hot water heater" + leaving antifreeze in vs. drainin

Slick set up. Is your HWH in your bilge?

Thanks... And yes, it's located under the cockpit floor in the bilge. It makes winterizing easy in regards to the HWH. Now, I wish I could figure out a way to make winterizing the ice maker in the cockpit and the ice maker in the galley that easy.........