changing transmission fluid

boughtabouy said:
I just got a quote from MM for the filters for my ZF transmission. $133/each, and they said they needed to be changed every year.

WHAT????????????
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No, No, No, No, No, No, No, No, and NO!
 
sfergson727 said:
Hey, I've got two brand new ones sitting in the boat spare parts bin....how about $100 a piece for them with shipping!!!! ;)
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I'll send him two for that - cleaned, 100% re-furbished.
 
Thanks for the offer, guys. I think I'll stick with the mineral spirits...

K
 
boughtabouy said:
Anyone have an idea how to determine which model of ZF I have (without looking at the plate on the boat that's 350 miles away)? It is a direct drive. My manual lists 13 different models, all with different fluid capacities ranging from 2 qts to 7 qts. I'm actually just trying to get an idea of how much fluid to bring with me when I go to do the fluid change over Thanksgiving weekend.

Thanks in advance,

Kevin
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You have a ZF 63 IV model transmission. figure 4.4 quarts for each transmission with filter change. In the back of the manual that came with your transmission is the table of acceptable trans fluids. The most readily available on that list is the Chevron brand of Dexron III.
 
boughtabouy said:
I just got a quote from MM for the filters for my ZF transmission. $133/each, and they said they needed to be changed every year.

WHAT????????????
Click to expand...

It's bad enough they hit you with a hammer on the head with the prices on boats, but they also do it even more when it comes to service. This is just a way to make money.
 
OK...here's a quick heads up....and it almost got me....but then again, the older I get, that doesn't take much anymore these days.

Yesterday, I changed the ATF in my ZF Hurth 80-IVs. I did purchase a set of new filters. I got them online for about $35 each. I just wanted to be able to swap out with the new filters so that I could continue on with the fluid change and then I could clean out the old filters later on in the garage....I do the same thing with my pool filters....it's just a personal choice and it saves some time.

I started with the port trans. I opened the filter housing on the trans housing with a 6 mm allen wrench....

PB111099.jpg


....and I put the dirty filter off to the side to be cleaned later in the garage.....

PB111100.jpg



...here's what the filter 'plug' looks like....

PB111101.jpg



...and again the plug broken apart.....

PB111102.jpg



.....I then sucked out the old ATF through the filter tube....

PB111103.jpg


.....the spec calls for 7.4 qts and after all was said and done, I got out 7qts from each side.

I refilled the port tranny with 6 qts at first (I checked and topped it off both sides later) and then closed everything up and went off to do the same procedure on the stbd trans.

Back tracking a bit.....when I opened the box to get out the new filter for port side, I saw one small O-Ring in the box. Inside the filter housing on the trans, there is a small O-ring at the base of the filter's tube, and I assumed that the O-ring was for that. I decided not to bother changing it out...quite honestly, out of laziness. Fast forwad back to the stbd side. When I opened the box for that new filter there, I saw the same small O-ring in the box and I just put it off to the side. BUT....and here's the heads up part......this time, out of pure luck, out of the corner of my eye, when I went to install the new filter in the stbd trans, I noticed something 'INSIDE' the new filter. Damn....it was a Large O-ring. What the hell was that for. Almost immediately the bells and whistles went off in my head......I f'd up...nothing too unusual anymore these days. Apparently, the new filter comes with two new O-rings....for these....

o-ring.jpg


...but the bastards hide the big O-ring inside the new filter. Don't ask me why they do that and/or why they don't include a third new O-ring for the base of the filter's tube.

So, I had to go back in and open up the port filter housing and sure as hell....there was that big O-ring still stuck inside the filter. I guess that could have restricted fluid flow and led to some kind of 'bad' thing.

Anyway....just thought I'd post.....
 
Thanks to all for the tips and info, guys.

I think I'm ready to give it a try in a couple weeks.

Kevin
 
Nah Frank....It does look that way, but that paint chipped off some other way...you can see it was chipped before I even started in the first pic......I used the 6MM Allen Wrench just like you suggested in our emails....I'm a good student.....
 
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sfergson727 said:
You mean you didn't find the third O-ring embedded in there along with the larger one? Sometimes it wedges it's self in there pretty good and is hard to see.........


Okay, stop tearing down your transmission, they do not include the third O-ring, just yanking your chain. ........
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Geesh....what are you trying to give me a heart attack....!!!! remember....I'm old....
 
This is one of the most informational threads I've ever read. I will definatley be changing my own trans fluid this season.

The one question i have is... you extract the fluid from the filter tube not the dip stick tube right??? It wasnt really that clear. Also i just keep seeing the metion of ZF 63 transmisions. Mine actually says "HSW 630 v 1-1 55" is that the same as the ZF 63 V. How many quarts does mine take 4.5??
 
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Planning to change my transmission oil for the first time this weekend. Read through the thread and everything looks pretty straightforward.

Can the trans oil be heated up enough to syphon by running the engines for a little while at the dock, or does the boat need to be taken out and ran prior to changing the trans oil?
 
blorincz said:
Planning to change my transmission oil for the first time this weekend. Read through the thread and everything looks pretty straightforward.

Can the trans oil be heated up enough to syphon by running the engines for a little while at the dock, or does the boat need to be taken out and ran prior to changing the trans oil?
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It really doesn't take much to suck out transmission fluid - unlike oil. I just start mine and run it right in the marina for a couple minutes - in forward and reverse.
 
sfergson727 said:
FWIW, I just looked at the manual for mine, which are the ZF 63-IV and it shows sucking the fluid from the filter tube. I suppose it really doesn't matter where it is sucked from as long as you get it out.
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As long as there's sucking involved I don't care how it comes out!

But seriously folks, good thread. I had my impellers replaced and belts too by a former MM mechanic. He did mention I need to change my v-drive fluid so I guess next time down I know what to do! :smt038
 
Alex D said:
In regards to oil. These transmissions are obviously designed to run on ATF. I think synthetic or not both work equally well since it is to be changed every year anyway. The only reason I prefer the Redline D4 is that it is on the thick side of dexron III and therefore doesn't get so thin when hot. I personally always have used the AutoZone Coastal brand because it comes in gallon containers and is very handy. Suck out and one jug in .. . done
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I noticed some atf under both my transmissions lately.
Every time it was after a longer run on higher speeds and rpm.
It is not much but it is there, and I don't like it.
The oil comes from the seal around the shaft.
Because it's under both trannies, I start thinking.
I changed to synthetic ATF last year.
I thing the synthetic stuff gets to thin and courses the leaks.

Specially because both trannies are leaking.

What do you guys think?
 
Peter:

Oil leaks are a very common side effect in, especially older, car motors, when owners switch to synthetic motor oils. Probably the easiest thing to do at this point would be to switch back to a dino oil and then monitor for leaks.

btw.....I personally wouldn't add any additives to try to stop the leaks.
 
Thanks Dom for your reaction.

I go for that step, but wanted to know if some more had the same symptom's with synthetic atf...
I can change the seal if it doesn't stop with dino oil, and also think that additives are not an option...
 
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