changing transmission fluid

It took me a long time at the Auto Parts store to figure out which one complied. I ended up using Castrol. Perhaps the regular Castrol has one of the two specified additives. I don't remember the details.
 
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John, do you recall by any chance which one of the Castrol types you ended up getting?
 
I'm with you Scott. The list has an approved Hungarian Dexron III fluid, but I'll be using a Dexron III from Autozone - not a Coastal Brand, but a Castrol...
 
I have been using coastal brand D III ATF because it comes in those handy 4 qt. jugs and they are exactly the amount I need for a drain and refill. Castrol probably makes their ATF :)
 
I have to thank Jim for starting this thread, which sort of was a good reminder for myself to add transissions to my to-do list this year.

Thanks to everyone else suggestions I felt comfortable doing the tranny tune up myself. Following advices above and the manual I took the filters out, pumped the old oil out, cleaned the filters with (as Frank W suggested) muneral spirits solvent, used my air compressor to have the filters dry. You guys were right and thanks for saving me $280 for new filters. The filters are all metal, including screen inside. After cleaning with the solvent it looked as new. I placed the filters back and put exactly 5qrts in each side. The way i got the oil level correctly was by putting 4qrts then checked the level and it was between the marks. I started the engines and put the tranny in gear forward/revers several times. Shut the engine, checked the level right away and sure enough I needed to add. So, I added anothe 1/2qrt. Repeated step above, checked again and added another 1/2qrt. Ran the engine/tranny again, checked last time and the level was perfectly on full (the higher mark of the dipstick).
I've used Castrol Drexon III Micron oil I had, which I've used number of years on my cars.

Thanks again to everyone for providing their input and helping your fellow boaters.

Alex.
 
Hey Alex ... Might want to check your manual on fill capacity ... just to be safe. The ZF Hurth V63 drives are only supposed to hold 4.5 qts. per my Mercruiser manual.
 
Alex, I do recall seeing that in the manual, but my dipstick showed only mid level between the marks with 4 1/2qrts. I checked the level before changing the oil and it showed full. So, I added extra 1/2qrt (making it total 5qrts) and only then it showed full. I still have to bring the boat to be pulled out on hard, so I'll check again after the tranny will get some more use. Thanks for heads up.
 
Scott,

I'm trying to find the details in the soft version of manual I got. Here's what I see:

91_Filling_up_with_transmission_flu.jpg


92_check_fluid_level.jpg


When I was checking my fluid level I was screwing the dipstick all the way in. If what they say and show on pic. B is the way to check it, then my level is lower. This would make things even more confusing, b/c I added 5qrts (1/2qrt above what they said). BTW, this manual says 3.2qrts. I'll double check my paper manual at home tonight.

By looking at the fig. 9.1 they show to fill the oil in the filter openning. I filled my oil in the dipstick openning. Do you guys think I did it wrong or there's not much difference?
 
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Alex F,
If you have V-drives, look for instructions on the 63 v, I believe the 63A is the 8 degree down angle straight tranny. That would account for the capacity confusion mentioned in your last post. ( my V-drive is 4.25 quarts and after changing it this past season, that's just about what it took) Final check should be done with tranny warm and imediately after shutdown, before all the oil in the cooler can run back down into the transmission. I think this is our transmissions
http://www.simplicity-marine.com/ZF/ZF63IV/Technical.htm
 
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Mark,

These were the steps I took to check the oil level:

The way i got the oil level correctly was by putting 4qrts then checked the level and it was between the marks. I started the engines and put the tranny in gear forward/revers several times. Shut the engine, checked the level right away and sure enough I needed to add. So, I added anothe 1/2qrt. Repeated step above, checked again and added another 1/2qrt. Ran the engine/tranny again, checked last time and the level was perfectly on full (the higher mark of the dipstick).

It looks like I was doing it correctly. Do you see anything wrong with the way I did it?

I think that the procedure of checking transmission fluid level is pretty much the same as for cars after the tranny tune up. Start her up, switch gears ferw times, shutdown and check level. I thought it was as simple as that. Am I wrong?
 
Alex,
sounds like you did it right., but how about the temperature? Tranny should be at operating temperature. Although I do not know how much of a difference it makes. I notice that the fluid capacity on the link I attached said "approximate". I would definitly go by your dipstick on your tranny
Were it I, I would leave it as is, next time out, after everything is up to temperature, check it immediately after shutting down. If it is at the full mark, you are good to go. Then, the next day, on cold transmissions, before starting, pull the dipstick, wipe it clean and check the level. It might be about 1/8 or 1/4 inch above the full mark. That is normal to read high when cold and after setting all night, the oil all settles off the clutch packs and cooler etc. Scribe a line at that point on the dipstick, and then you will always be able to check your fluid before you leave the dock and not have to worry about temperature or immediatly after shutdown etc etc. Be sure to do that procedure though, don't just put a line above your full mark because I said so...every application is different. Mine happens to be about that distance above the full mark when it's cold and hasn't been run. Take care
 
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I'm looking at my paper manual and looks like I'm not too far off on the fluid level. For ZF 63 IV: 4.6 US-qts. The only minor issue I see is that I was screwing the dipstick in, the manual said just insert it, not screw it in. I guess, this would make my level only lower, if I follow manual's method. I'll monitor the level after running the boat to the lift. Thanks for your tips guys. This is all very helpfull.
 
jimdavi said:
I used valvoline ATF-III, but I believe the synthetic spec is now IV. Also purchased my filters half price from MER marine in Seattle. Agree, filter change was a waste.
Click to expand...


I just got a quote from MM for the filters for my ZF transmission. $133/each, and they said they needed to be changed every year.

WHAT????????????
 
Anyone have an idea how to determine which model of ZF I have (without looking at the plate on the boat that's 350 miles away)? It is a direct drive. My manual lists 13 different models, all with different fluid capacities ranging from 2 qts to 7 qts. I'm actually just trying to get an idea of how much fluid to bring with me when I go to do the fluid change over Thanksgiving weekend.

Thanks in advance,

Kevin
 
I have 1998 310 Sundancer with v-drives. Does anyone know if these trans. have filters? I did not see any.
 
carterchapman said:
I'm with you Scott. The list has an approved Hungarian Dexron III fluid, but I'll be using a Dexron III from Autozone - not a Coastal Brand, but a Castrol...
Click to expand...

I ended up using Valvoline Full Synthetic Dexron VI (approved for all Dexron III applications)...
 
Kevin, try emailing Sea Ray (corporate) and give them your hull identification number (HIN). Ask for a copy of the specifications and options that the boat was delivered with to the first owner. Its all in their system. I requested one prior to purchasing the boat I have now as I couldn't remember what was all on it (as far as transmissions and factory options were). They sent it to me within a couple of days. It will list engines, transmissions, factory (not dealer) installed options. It may be of some help to you. - Jeff
 
In regards to oil. These transmissions are obviously designed to run on ATF. I think synthetic or not both work equally well since it is to be changed every year anyway. The only reason I prefer the Redline D4 is that it is on the thick side of dexron III and therefore doesn't get so thin when hot. I personally always have used the AutoZone Coastal brand because it comes in gallon containers and is very handy. Suck out and one jug in .. . done
 
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