Changing Racor and Fuel Filters

After reading this, I fear I may be doing something wrong. I claim no expertise here, so I am willing to learn.
  • I use 10 micron elements in the Racors and 2 micron on the secondary filter. Should I be using higher micron filters? These are the sizes that came from the factory.
  • I spill no fuel when I change the Racors. OK a little, but not very much. I hold a bucket underneath the unit, but nothing has ever made it that far. I do turn off the fuel feed from the tank. I lift out the element, let it drain and then chuck it in a big Ziploc bag.
  • Yes, I change the O-rings, including the one on the T handle.
  • I do not pre-fill the secondary filter, per manufacturer instructions. But, priming the fuel system was as easy as advertised using the instructions in the manual (basically cycling the ignition on and off in 30 second intervals to run the fuel lift pumps)
  • I have never had to drain anything from the collection area in the bottom of the Racor. I will chock this off the luck, and always buying fuel from a high-volume dock.
  • I do carry a gallon a fresh diesel, but have never needed it.
So am I lucky, or dumb, or some combination of both?
 
festivus44 said:
After reading this, I fear I may be doing something wrong. I claim no expertise here, so I am willing to learn.
  • I use 10 micron elements in the Racors and 2 micron on the secondary filter. Should I be using higher micron filters? These are the sizes that came from the factory.
  • I spill no fuel when I change the Racors. OK a little, but not very much. I hold a bucket underneath the unit, but nothing has ever made it that far. I do turn off the fuel feed from the tank. I lift out the element, let it drain and then chuck it in a big Ziploc bag.
  • Yes, I change the O-rings, including the one on the T handle.
  • I do not pre-fill the secondary filter, per manufacturer instructions. But, priming the fuel system was as easy as advertised using the instructions in the manual (basically cycling the ignition on and off in 30 second intervals to run the fuel lift pumps)
  • I have never had to drain anything from the collection area in the bottom of the Racor. I will chock this off the luck, and always buying fuel from a high-volume dock.
  • I do carry a gallon a fresh diesel, but have never needed it.
So am I lucky, or dumb, or some combination of both?
Click to expand...

I have exactly the same experience. I change the Racors at 50 hours and they show little discoloration. I feel lucky too but I still carry 2 sets of spares. That greatly reduces the chances that I'll need them.

Do you top off the Racor at all after you pull the element?

10 micron for the first filter and 2 micron for the second seems to be the standard for piezo injector motors. That's the recommendation for the common rail diesel truck I've got as well as the Volvo's.
 
Boulder GT3 said:
Do you top off the Racor at all after you pull the element?
Click to expand...
The two times I have done this (multiplied by 3 Racors for a grand total of six times I have changed elements) there was no need to top off. That's why I was concerned that I may be missing a step in the process.
 
Hey Gary, if you'll note the plumbing on Tony's bulb set up, they are in a cut out loop which is only left open when priming. When alls set, the valves are closed and the bulbs are cut out of the fuel flow to wait for another filter change.

This set up is so freak'n sensible and low cost. A powered pump system to feed both engines would cost 2 Yacht Units at least, this rig maybe just a tender unit or two.

I've had a lust for Tony's spin on fuel filter apporach and always have it in my plan. But the project always gets pushed down the list each year due to other matters like carpets, canvas, fuel, rum, food, ice etc.

And thus far, (knock on teak) I've never had a fuel issue that would drive me to act on it. Racors @ 30 mics ever 1000 gallons per engine (5 tanks or 1X a year) seems to work fine.
 
Asureyez said:
Hey Gary, if you'll note the plumbing on Tony's bulb set up, they are in a cut out loop which is only left open when priming. When alls set, the valves are closed and the bulbs are cut out of the fuel flow to wait for another filter change.

..........
Click to expand...


Unless I'm missing something, in the one valve unit you posted, that bulb is always in the circuit....if the bulb fails....fuel flows wherever!!!
 
Last edited:
festivus44 said:
After reading this, I fear I may be doing something wrong. I claim no expertise here, so I am willing to learn.
  • I use 10 micron elements in the Racors and 2 micron on the secondary filter. Should I be using higher micron filters? These are the sizes that came from the factory.
  • I spill no fuel when I change the Racors. OK a little, but not very much. I hold a bucket underneath the unit, but nothing has ever made it that far. I do turn off the fuel feed from the tank. I lift out the element, let it drain and then chuck it in a big Ziploc bag.
  • Yes, I change the O-rings, including the one on the T handle.
  • I do not pre-fill the secondary filter, per manufacturer instructions. But, priming the fuel system was as easy as advertised using the instructions in the manual (basically cycling the ignition on and off in 30 second intervals to run the fuel lift pumps)
  • I have never had to drain anything from the collection area in the bottom of the Racor. I will chock this off the luck, and always buying fuel from a high-volume dock.
  • I do carry a gallon a fresh diesel, but have never needed it.
So am I lucky, or dumb, or some combination of both?
Click to expand...

Your doing exacly as you should! Next time around I am going to specify 10-micron Racors instead of the 30's I was sent. I went all over the place last year with fuel from many different docks, and the 10-micron's did a fantastic job,.
 
I think Tony's bulb priming is a choice of "either" method. I would tend to go with the three valve system in order to completely isolate the bulb and clear line until it was needed for priming. The Racors (if you decide to keep them) are easy to top up after a filter change therefore the bulb is placed AFTER these filters. The primer bulb is then used to prime the "last chance filter" on mechanical motors. Am I correct in assuming this?

James
 
Fest,
Piece of cake. In the early season i dont change the primary and secondary at same time. Ill change the primary... prime and run the motors then do secondary. Its about 10 mins worth of switch rocking to fully prime. ( I drain and clean the bowls over the winter ) I do both motors at same time. ( alternating from port to stb ) I do about 150 hrs a season so just for the heck I swap out the racors midseason.

Weathers warming ... lets get boating


Rob
 
Hi James, in the drawing shown in the other thread you'll see that Tony used two bulbs per engine fuel feed, one to prime the racor andone to prime the engine & last chance filters.
 
Thanks Chad,

I think if you refer to sbmar/Articles Tony describes a couple of alternatives. When I read it I understood that it was one or the other (or possibly an inline bulb for motors 250hp or less with 3/8 lines). My preference would be a fully isolated bulb with a clear line. The "T's" would only be opened if priming was needed on the last chance engine mounted filter. I haven't had much of a need to prime after I change out the Racor filters but those silly thumb primers are a nuisance to use on the mechanical 6CTA. That's why on my last filter change, I cheated with some clean "road" diesel in the on-engine filter.

BTW, not to hijack the thread but what WOT rpm do you expect to achieve fully loaded with the 6C's? According to Boatdiesel we should get 2650-2700.

James
 
Jaws said:
Thanks Chad,

I
BTW, not to hijack the thread but what WOT rpm do you expect to achieve fully loaded with the 6C's? According to Boatdiesel we should get 2650-2700.

James
Click to expand...

James

I get 2650 at wot (and 31 knots on the gps). My boat is FULLY loaded, huge inverter battery bank, multiple anchors 350' all chain rode, safety gear, tv's, more safety gear, dinghy etc. I am going to use a different haul out this summer and get an accurate weight just to see.
 
Hi James:

Speed vs RPM's is a sore subject for me right now. From the time I bought the boat until I did the major servicve @ 545 hrs, My max RPMs was 2500 WOT. I've improved the situation and achieved 2700 but, I'm back at 2500 now and I'm PO'd.

After I finished a valve adj in the summer of 07 my RPM's were Port 2710 Stb 2725 and over the bottom speed was 23.8 by GPS, loaded with fuel and water and basic owner gear. I would make 19 -195 knots at 2050 RPMs. My flywheel to tach variance is 45PRMs Port and 55 Stb. So I was actually making 2665 Port and 2670 STb.. IN August of last year my aftercoolers were cleaned with ultra sound and pressure tested (reported here in CSR) so most everything was in top condition for the motors through that time.

Somewhere along the way I've lost top end RPM's and I'm back to a max 2500 under load. The timing was about the same as the switch to ULSD. Now, I can turn up 2940/2960 with no load so I can get the rpms. Just not under a load.

I'm medthodically working my way through AIR, FUEL and Mechanics. MY wheels are the same ones that let me get to 2700 previously and I just had them scoped and they are fine. I'm not going to work on the props yet as I've got to eliminate the mechanical factors first.

I've completed the Water/Dawn Spray Turbo cleaning with no improvement except a small noticeable smoothness in idle. My Airseps are clean and fuel flow is peak on new filters.

I'm now down to either valve adjustments, turbo boost pressure or a injector or two fouling.

I'm relentlessly working my way through the possibilites as I want those 200 RPM's back!

I know its air or fuel ... just where oh where did my RPM's go!
 
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Chad...was the loss of WOT RPMs a gradual decline or an overnight type of thing?
 
SR400DB: It appears you are getting the proper RPMs out of her but you may want to confirm by electronic tachometer. I just had the bottom stripped and epoxied. I am hoping to get another knot or two but as long as she pulls 2650-2700, I'll be happy.

Chad: I remember from your post of a year (or more) ago about your WOT GPS speed. I wondered at the time about your hull weight. My 460 has a bit of unnecessary weight but we'll still get about 27 knots at WOT usually and 29.1 once last year downstream. I wonder if there is a difference between freshwater performance (me) and saltwater (you). In the photo below she is doing around 23 knots and 2350? rpm. I usually cruise at 85%; the Cummins mechanic told me they can take 90% all day and bring it up to WOT for no more than one hour in eight. I don't quite adhere to that thinking but I don't baby them either.

James
 
Jaws said:
SR400DB: It appears you are getting the proper RPMs out of her but you may want to confirm by electronic tachometer. I just had the bottom stripped and epoxied. I am hoping to get another knot or two but as long as she pulls 2650-2700, I'll be happy.

Chad: I remember from your post of a year (or more) ago about your WOT GPS speed. I wondered at the time about your hull weight. My 460 has a bit of unnecessary weight but we'll still get about 27 knots at WOT usually and 29.1 once last year downstream. I wonder if there is a difference between freshwater performance (me) and saltwater (you). In the photo below she is doing around 23 knots and 2350? rpm. I usually cruise at 85%; the Cummins mechanic told me they can take 90% all day and bring it up to WOT for no more than one hour in eight. I don't quite adhere to that thinking but I don't baby them either.

James
Click to expand...

Yep, we did use an electronic tach last Sept to confirm my rpms.
 
Hi James:

The Spec weight for the 2001 460DA is 28K which I've been told the design weight is for fully tanked and not a light weight. I weigh 36K in the slings, thats been consistant for three years. At 8K over design I've wondered if I'm hauling around a lot of water intrusion as I do not believe I've put 4 freaking tons of crap aboard, and since I fired the Admiral I lost another 145 pounds as well! I've tapped out the bottom at every haul out and last August I had to remove the thru hulls for the mains to resurface the bilge and the hull at the cut outs was clean and dry?

So I dunno, give me a ton for clothes, food and other gear which would be generous, but 3 tons of water would slow down anything under 60 feet! What I do not know is what the added weight for the Hardtop is 2K maybe? The specs are for a rag top in 2001 was the 28K and the hard top wasn't std until 2002 as I recall.

Any one got a 460 DA design weight for a 2002/2003 460DA and its sling weight?

BTW: Salt water would not have anyting to do with sling weight and would only add bouyancy for the more dense water (ride higher on her lines)
 
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