Changing Racor and Fuel Filters

[B-Rock]

Going to change the racor and fuel filters for the first time in the boat...anybody have a simple step by step process for this?

 

[jetlag]

Brian,

I have QSC 500's and my previous Cummins were 5.9, 370's. On my current SeaRay application I turned the fuel valves to the off position before changing each filter. Not sure how much good it did as the fuel ran for a long time. I placed a 2 gallon plastic bucket under the Racor, took the brass plug out of the bottom and drained all the fuel out of the Racor then re-installed the plug. Then, with the new filter and O-ring standing by, I loosened the T-handle and removed the top plate. I put the new filter in and installed the new o-ring leaving the top plate loose until the Racor filled all the way to the top with fuel. You may have to turn the valve back on. Alternatively, you can fill the Racor with new, clean fuel. It depends on how much fuel you have in the tank on whether or not you will need to manually add the fuel.
If you change the secondary filters (at the engine) at the same time you may check on the priming and pre-fill procedures. On the new common rail engines Cummins says to NOT pre-fill them due to the possibility of getting very small particles of debris in the fuel and causing problems. On mine they said to install the new filters empty and prime them with the Ignition/Master switch by turning them off and on for several cycles. On for about 15 seconds each time. Worked for me. The Racors were the same on the 370's but the secondary filters required pre-filling. On the secondary filters it helps to use a heavy duty ziploc bag to catch any fuel. Same for the oil filters. Sorry to be so wordy but I hope this helps.
Jet Lag
SeaRay 44DB

 

[SR400DB]

One trick I have learned (other than 2 gallon zip lock bags) is to tie a rag around the racor housing prior to opening the "T" handle. The rag will catch the fuel and help to keep things clean. On my boat turning the valve handle to off and using the rag, no fuel is spilled. My tanks at half full will fill the racors back up prior to tightening the "T" handle.

 

[Four Suns]

Wow... I can't believe you guys completely drain the Racors to replace the filters. I usually pop the top off with the T-handle and then pull the filters out and rest them on the top of the housing such that the filters drain their excess fuel back into the housing. After about 5 minutes I wrap the old filters in some oil absorbing pad and stick them in the trash. I then put new filter cartridges back in and drain a little fuel (1/4 cup?) out the bottom. I put petcocks on the bottom of my Racors:

http://www.jamestowndistributors.co...ilyName=Racor+Diesel+Shut-Off+Drain+Valve+Kit

The valves make life much easier. However, if you put those on, make sure you keep the bolt that goes in the bottom of the petcock because, although they will keep fuel from dripping out when they are closed, air can get pulled up through them when the engines are running and no bolt is on the bottom of the petcock sealing them up.

Here they are installed on the bottom:

I can prime like you all said by opening the valve if there is enough fuel in the tank. I have started carrying a 2 gallon jug of clean diesel in case I have to change a filter out when I have too little fuel in the tank.

Anyway.. emptying out all the fuel from those Racors is a painful exercise. I empty out a cup or two (total) servicing all 5 of them I have.

 

[Boatingfool]

I follow a similar procedure as Gary listed, simply loosen the T-Bolt (a rag will absorb most of the spillage), yank the filter (slowly), and drop the new filter in (slowly). This typically only requires less than a 1/4 of diesel to top off per Racor.

What Micron filters are you guys replacing with? The MAN distributor sold me 30-micron Racoes but the ones I pulled were 10-micron.

 

[Four Suns]

I use 30's in the Racors and an FS1001 on the engine (that's a Cummins/Fleetguard filter). Fleetguard doesn't tell you directly what the FS1001 filter is but my understanding is it's a 10 micron filter... Not sure what MAN recommends...

Oh yeah.. make sure you replace the rubber o-ring on the T-handle as well as the gasket on the lid. I've tried to be lazy and when you do, they'll leak air.

 

[The Bill Collector]

I use 10 micron in my Racors and I must say Gary the "petcock" addition is a very cool mod.....

 

[tobnpr]

You can search every forum- including Boatdiesel- and find there is no consensus on which element (2, 10, 30) to use.
After buying my boat I called CAT and got the same answer, there is no rigid "spec" on this issue.
My mechanics (that also called a local CAT rep they know well) recommended the 2 micron, so that's what I use.
My decision was based on the amount of hours/fuel burn ; on my usage.
I put only around 70-80 hours a year on average on my 3208's- that ain't a lot of fuel passing through the filters, so even though they're 2 micron, they're not going to clog quickly (barring bad fuel, which is not a problem for me). By using the 2 micron in the Racors, I'm also limiting what might get through to the engine mounted filters- and don't change them as often as the Racors and have had no issues.
If I burned a lot more fuel, or if I had a problem with the quality of fuel or gunk in my tanks, I'd use the larger size (porosity)filters.

Others here know alot more about this than me, so if my reasoning is flawed- please have at it.

 

[osd9]

I am in the camp of 30 micron in the primary Racors and the on engine CAT secondaries, part # 1R-0751, which I was told are 2 micron, but I'm not positive about the CAT filters size.

 

[B-Rock]

Great info guys! I really appreciate all the help on this one! I knew I could count on you seasoned "diesel" guys for some expert assistance!!!

 

[Asureyez]

Here is a thread on a past discussion on changing Racors, with some step by step recommendations.

http://clubsearay.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5257

You'll note that Gary and I differ on draining the bowls at filter change. I like to wash out loose crud and this is a biggie, if you press down a clean filte rinto a full housing, the diesekl wants to fountian and shoot out or dribble over. Its a little more messy to drop in a filte rin a full housing. Either way, it is a little messy, big deal.

Good luck.

BTW, I've recently seen a cool mod where a simple bulb from a gas tank is used in the fuel system to prime the filters. It's way cool! Thankls to Tony Athens @ Boat Diesel on the web:

 

[osd9]

Chad.....are those primer bulbs a 'one or the other' option or are both plumbed into the circuit?

 

[Four Suns]

I saw that bulb setup over on boatdiesel but to be honest, I'm not real crazy about a two dollar bulb on the fuel circuit. I've had plenty of those bulbs break/leak on me with outboards and I'm not even sure how the rubber would hold up in a hot engine room. The engine room does a lot to the hoses let alone a part that is really not designed for that environment.

Racor does make a priming motor for some of their turbine series filters. I looked at one for the 900 series some time ago but it didn't seem worth it... plus I would have to buy 4.

I still don't think it's necassary to drain all the fuel out of those things. If there is anything dropped off the filter it will be caught by the on engine filter. Geez... draining mine is a 4 gallon exercise. Also, the procedure I described is pretty much from the manual. I don't get any fuel spilling over the top... I take out a wet filter and put in a dry one and so I have to add fuel to get it back to the top. Additionally, draining a little out the bottom with the petcock removes even more...

 

[Petep]

Does anyone know if the ignition switch on-off for 15 seconds (like Jetlag used on his common rails) will work for my "sudo-electronic" 480CE's. I also have always poured in fresh diesel fuel into my secondaries (on the mains) and put them on. I would like to just spin the new ones on and then have them prime themselves by the process that Jetlag described. Will this work for me? I don't want to introduce air into the system. Any thoughts?

 

[SR400DB]

My dad had a boat with 480 ce's (not a sea ray), his boat and my 400db (I have the 450 c's) had/have a primer pump on the engine for priming the engine mount fuel filter. You pump until it "squeaks" continuously. The pump is on the left side of each engine above the raw water pump. Not sure if this helps for your situation.

 

[osd9]

......CAT secondaries, part # 1R-0751, which I was told are 2 micron, but I'm not positive about the CAT filters size.

I found this,......the 1R-0751 filters are 2 Micron....

 

[Petep]

Sure enough-SR40DB- thanks, I know that's there! I guess it's been along winter-time to get down in the engine room.....

 

[Skip]

I have a single 900MA for each engine. To drain water and sediment, I had to loosen the brass bolt at the base of the heat shield enough to drain off the impurities at the bottom of the clear racor bowl. If this is your application (no petcocks) be very careful that you do not overtighten the brass bolt that holds the heat shield in place. I overtightened the bolt during annual services last fall and cracked the clear plastic racor bowl. This then caused a slow fuel drip into the engine room. I ended up rebuilding the Racor 900MA. After that experience, I installed the petcocks that Gary mentions above. I run 30 Micron cartridges in my 900MAs. I run ~150 hours per year, so each Racor filters around 1,500 gallons of diesel. With consistent maintenance dosing of biocide and by purchasing fuel from reputable high volume sellers, I run the entire season without changing the Racor elements.
I do, however, change them annually, in the fall, as part of annual services and prep for winter layup.

regards
Skip

 

[Jaws]

With regard to the primers on the 6CTAs, it is a difficult task to fill the on-engine filters in this manner, especially on the starboard engine. That's why Seaboard Marine advocates the primer bulbs and I'm considering following Tony's filtration protocol and getting rid of the Racors as well.

I have used the 30 micron Racor filters and they plugged half way through last season at less than forty hours. I changed out the on-engine filters at the same time but I cheated and filled them with clean "road" diesel in order to save all that priming. (You feel like your thumbs will fall off....my neighbour's 3126 CATs have a better primer.) Racors are easy to change but I think Tony's system might be more reliable and be less work for me over the season.

James

 

[Four Suns]

Tony needs to come up with an "industrial strength" bulb... I mean the dude did water pumps and impellers...