Can't remove my starter solenoid

I`m currently using 2 of those relays to operate the trim/tilt of a omc seadrive outboard
with motor reversing.
Color code of the wires in the pic suggest it is the slave relay. From the ign switch thru the control box neutral safety to the slave relay/solenoid to the starter
 
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Rekooh77 said:
So, talk to me like a 3rd grader if you could. My battery is definitely good. When my buddy ran a screwdriver across the solenoid it turned the starter. He took that to mean that the starter was fine and that the solenoid was probably bad. Earlier in the post it was said that solenoids hardly ever go out on these and that it was most likely the slave/relay. Do I need to replace that part then? Specifically, the one we're talking about right now? The one that is saying part number 882751 is the "power trim relay?" And if so, is this a difficult process for someone with limited skills such as myself?
Thank you.
Click to expand...

First of all no one is talking to you like a 3rd grader. But when I see statements like "my buddy ran a screw driver across the terminals the starter worked" well if it works why didn't the engine start. Do you own a test light, A volt- Ohm meter? Tools like this would come in handy when you own a boat. Plus you can test anything 12V with them.

Now if any of that was getting your panty's tight then I'm sorry.
 
BT Doctor has you on right track, you need to identify the wiring schematic learn the wires where they go and what they do along with each component in the cranking system.. there are multiple schematics in this thread showing the system.

relays and solonoids do the same thing with two exceptions on the relays part. 1. relay can provide a ground to the component while in the off position these types of relays have an extra post which you will find used for tilt and trim units and merc uses this same relay but skips the grounding function for the cranking system 2. A relay can hold a constant voltage where a solenoid would overheat meaning "Continous supply of power"
 
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I was asking to be talked to like a 3rd grader. I think you're misunderstanding my tone. I know I don't know what I'm doing. That's why I was asking to be talked to like a 3rd grader.


Mike Blake said:
First of all no one is talking to you like a 3rd grader. But when I see statements like "my buddy ran a screw driver across the terminals the starter worked" well if it works why didn't the engine start. Do you own a test light, A volt- Ohm meter? Tools like this would come in handy when you own a boat. Plus you can test anything 12V with them.

Now if any of that was getting your panty's tight then I'm sorry.
Click to expand...
 
I will ill go back and reread. This is all Greek to me so there is a bit of a learning curve. I do have a multimeter but I'm brand new to it. I'm just asking for help as a layman. There is no unwillingness to follow instruction or attitude coming from me. Thank you again to all. As soon as my in laws leave I will reread everything.

Sublimetime said:
It seems that the OP did not read all responses-in particular the post from Frank pointing out that the number on the relay crosses over to a different application than where it is used on his boat. He just doesn't want to locate and check this relay. It could possibly be neutral safety circuit as this is wired in to this relay circuit.
Click to expand...
 
Sounds like Bt Doctur can get you going, don't be discouraged by some of the comments we all had to start with little or no knowledge about this boat stuff. Willingness to listen and seek advice is the best you can do and it looks like you came to the right place!
 
For an update determined the 90A fuse link is bad. Factory wiring has the Red system power and the alt feed Orange spliced together. Recommended modifying said wiring.
File photo
DSCN3426_zpsvi9hyxop.jpg
 
I've got to tip my hat to Bt Doc. I've been busy with work, school, and a 7 month old. Doc helped me troubleshoot the problem. We knocked out possibilities such as the starter, solenoid relay/slave, battery issues, etc. After a few elimination and all that Doc said it's most likely your 90 amp fuse.

Thank you Doc for your help and patience! I learned a lot!
 
Doc,

im up in AR for the weekend and the boat just died on me while cruising speed. I checked two of the breakers; the one on top of the engine and the one by the battery. Both didn't help the situation by pushing them. In fact the battery one killed all the power. Does this sound like the 90amp fuse again? I've never heard of a boat just dying while chugging along at 20mph. Any temporary solutions to just get me through the weekend would be great. Thanks.

W
 
Happy New Year!

I went from twins running with no known issues New Years eve... New Years Day while cruising approx 30 knots my starboard motor suddenly stopped. When checked all appeared fine. Voltage and batteries seem fine. When putting the ignition to the on position I hear the fuel pump engaging but the motor won't turn over... Any suggestions?

So I limped her back to the dock by use of the port motor. While loading the trailer with only the port motor I bumped the trailer rack with the prop. Engine stopped. Now I'm having similar issue with my port engine as to whats described in this thread, a single click when pressing engine start button. After reading through the threads I believe I have an issue with the slave solenoid. I have a Merc Bravo III 5.0, and too I'm new to this family. For some reason I'm not seeing the slave. I've located the 50 amp fuse "red button" atop engine. Any suggestions would be appreciated...

Twins are down...SMH

Thank goodness for this channel as it appears I'm not alone.
 
Here’s under my hood at the 50 amp fuse... Perhaps I’m completely overseeing it.
 

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Don't see it in those pics either. Look for heavy gauge red/yellow wire. Or locate the source of the click.
 
scoflaw said:
Don't see it in those pics either. Look for heavy gauge red/yellow wire. Or locate the source of the click.
Click to expand...

I will do and will post results
 
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