Can't remove my starter solenoid

R

Rekooh77

New Member
May 1, 2016
22
Shreveport, LA
Boat Info
2011 SeaRay 185
Engines
Mercruiser 4.3L Alpha One
I have a Mercuiser 4.3L Alpha One. I'm having problems with my boat starting. I've narrowed it down to the starter solenoid but I can't remove it.

The starter solenoid is piggybacked onto the starter. I've managed to get the starter loose but can't go to what I think are the remaining bolts for the solenoid.

Any advice?

Here are the parts I've removed. And a pic of the solenoid. I've circled the bolts that I THINK I have to remove to get the solenoid off but they are very small bolts with almost no room to get to and there's a third on a far side of the solenoid that is definitely impossible to get to no matter what tools you have.
 

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Mercruiser starter solenoids almost never fail, so let me ask if you have checked the slave solenoid, which does tend to fail regularly.

The slave solenoid is a $16 part located behind or near the main breaker (big red button) on the front of the engine usually mounted to the exhaust manifold or riser.

If you do need to remove the actual starter solenoid, you will probably need to remove the entire starter from the bell housing. The solenoid is mounted to the starter with some small machine screws but it is usually pinned to the bendix inside the bell housing where you can't reach it without removing it.
 
Frank,

I'm not sure. I'll look this weekend. How do I test the slave?

Thank you


fwebster said:
Mercruiser starter solenoids almost never fail, so let me ask if you have checked the slave solenoid, which does tend to fail regularly.

The slave solenoid is a $16 part located behind or near the main breaker (big red button) on the front of the engine usually mounted to the exhaust manifold or riser.

If you do need to remove the actual starter solenoid, you will probably need to remove the entire starter from the bell housing. The solenoid is mounted to the starter with some small machine screws but it is usually pinned to the bendix inside the bell housing where you can't reach it without removing it.
Click to expand...
 
Frank is right. The way to test it is to jump the solenoid on the starter with a remote start cable. Using a screwdriver is not a good idea since it will create a spark. The slave solenoid is mounted on the engine. It is covered by a black plastic case with a red breaker button.


If the starter spins with the remote start cable.....replace the slave solenoid.
 
A friend of mine already jumped the starter solenoid with a screwdriver last weekend and the starter spun. He thought that meant that the starter solenoid was out. He didn't know that there was a slave solenoid. Does that mean that it is definitely the slave solenoid?
 
If your friend jumped the starter solenoid that means you are not getting 12volts from turning the key.....the solenoid and starter are probably fine. Most boats have a neutral safety switch (so you cannot start the engine in gear), ignition switch, slave solenoid switch and the stater/solenoid in the start circuit. Of the parts in the circuit, the neutral safety switch and the slave solenoid fail most often.

The slave solenoid is a $15 part. You can check for voltage when you replace it and make sure the connections are tight.
 
If you jump the starters solenoid and the starter turns , starter and cable connections are most likely good.
If you jump the 2 large lugs on the slave and the starter spins, the wiring is good , if the slave solenoid just clicks using the key it`s not making contact internally and needs to be replaced
UntitledAW_zpstfewifz6.jpg
 
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Thank you everyone. I think I understand. I'll just have to locate the slave this weekend when I can get back in there. I'll let yall know how it turns out. Thanks!
 
Is this the slave solenoid? Here's a picture of the front and back.
Thanks,
Winston
 

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I followed the yel/red wires like in the diagram you posted but they appear to lead to the power trim relay (I googled the part number on the side of it which is the only reason why I know its the power trim relay). Any ideas on why I'm not seeing it lead to the slave solenoid?



Bt Doctur said:
If you jump the starters solenoid and the starter turns , starter and cable connections are most likely good.
If you jump the 2 large lugs on the slave and the starter spins, the wiring is good , if the slave solenoid just clicks using the key it`s not making contact internally and needs to be replaced
UntitledAW_zpstfewifz6.jpg
Click to expand...
 
Part number 7 is the slave solenoid. It is a very common generic intermittent contact relay/solenoid used in 10,000's of applications. If you googles the part number it just as likely could have come back to a Snapper 15 hp lawnmower starter solenoid as well.

1 red/purple lead should be "hot" all the time the switch is on; the yellow/red lead is the trigger and should have 12VDC on it when the switch is in the start position; the black lead is a ground for the trigger coil and it must have continuity to the engine ground; and, the other red/purple lead should have 12VDC on it when the relay is closed…..as in when the switch is in start position.

The quick way to test the slave solenoid is to first check for constant 12VDC on one red/purple terminal, then connect a jumper from the battery or a known 12VDC source to the yellow/red terminal. With a jumper attached, you should have 12VDC on both red/purple terminals and the starter motor should crank.
 
slave solenoids and trim solenoids are interchangable The yelloww/red wire from the starter solenoid goes to a slave solenoid. Has 2 large and 2 small lugs . You pic is of the 50A circuit breaker with the red and rd/purple wires. And the trim pump solenoids are mounting on the same bracket that has the trim pump.
 
I tried to put pics directly on here but no matter how small I made them it wouldn't let me. Hope the photobucket links work.
 
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