Can ya help a rookie boater?

Gofirstclass

Gofirstclass

Well-Known Member
Apr 20, 2010
11,698
Tri Cities, WA
Boat Info
Boatless in WA
Engines
No motor
Well, maybe I'm not a rookie boater, but I am new to towing a boat with an outboard motor on it. What I'm looking for is help with the proper position of the outboard motor. Should it be tilted all the way up as shown in this first photo?
IMG_20140611_125313_471.jpg
It would seem to me that it's not a good idea to have that much weight sitting forward of the transom.

IMG_20140611_125355_379.jpg
Or would it be better to have the weight of the motor sitting basically on top of the transom as shown in this picture?

IMG_20140611_125425_482.jpg
Or would it be best to have the weight sitting slightly behind the transom but with the skeg far enough off the ground that it's not going to hit when going over obstacles like steep driveways, sidewalks, etc.

Thanks in advance for your suggestions and help.

Newbie GFC
 
All the way forward. Think of how much force the power of that engines puts in a twisting force on that transom when you gun it in the water...enough to lift the whole boat and people and gear, right?
It can take a couple of bumps down the road.
 
You need a stand-off for the tailstock.The lower unit rests in a rubber v and the other end attaches or rests on the trailer.That will keep it from bouncing and stressing the transom.Up is the preferred position .
 
It's called a transom saver and you can get them fairly inexpensive at almost any boating store. They work well and definitely worth the money.
agupazys.jpg
 
I don't agree. The tab is there to take the bouncing shock load off the transom and trim cylinder piston and valves. If you have power trim, gently lower the motor against the tilt stop. If you use a transom saver, then set it so it rests under the lower unit at about the same point as the trim stop begins to take the load of the tilted motor.
 
I agree with the support. The bouncing is very hard on the lift cylinders. The transom my hold, but I imagine the seals in the cylinders will take a beating - shortening the life.

Also, the force against the transom while accelerating is a constant force. The force bouncing is a back and forth force.
 
fwebster said:
I don't agree. The tab is there to take the bouncing shock load off the transom and trim cylinder piston and valves. If you have power trim, gently lower the motor against the tilt stop. If you use a transom saver, then set it so it rests under the lower unit at about the same point as the trim stop begins to take the load of the tilted motor.
Click to expand...

+1 Trailered boats for 14 years. Raise the motor, flip the tab in the down position, lower the motor to take the pressure off the trim/tab ram and head down the road. I've driven to the Keys and across the state I can't tell you how many times with absolutley no problems. That tab is exclusively made for towing. That's why it's there.
 
I agree with the transom saver if you're constantly trailering. If it's just occasionally, you'll be fine.
 
I wish I had a place to attach one of those supports for the lower end of the motor, but there isn't anywhere on the trailer where that could easily be attached.

I did find the rotating tab and very gently lowered the motor against it. Thanks for letting me know it was there. I'd never have seen it! I feel better now about where the motor should be when towing.

Next month we're taking the Whaler up to a lake in northern Idaho for a couple of days. Lots of photos will follow.

Thanks for the help!
 
OK, cheapskate that I am, I broke down and ordered a transom saver from WM. They carry an Attwood one that looks like it will work just fine. I had a $10 WM gift certificate and they're offering free shipping right now, so the whole thing including the tax was under a hundred bucks.

It should be here in just a couple of days so I'll get that rigged up and feel much better about towing it.
 
Gofirstclass said:
OK, cheapskate that I am, I broke down and ordered a transom saver from WM. They carry an Attwood one that looks like it will work just fine. I had a $10 WM gift certificate and they're offering free shipping right now, so the whole thing including the tax was under a hundred bucks.

It should be here in just a couple of days so I'll get that rigged up and feel much better about towing it.
Click to expand...

UNDER $100??? I could've made one out of a 2 x 4 and bungie cord for nuttin'.........and you call yerself a "cheapskate"???
 
I know I said earlier to get a transom support thingy. But this is a Whaler. I hauled my 18' Outrage with a 140 Johnson all over creation for 3 years just using the swivel support. No issues. I do like the motor support idea. I'm thinking they were invented to use on bass boats. Lightweight boats with huge motors hanging off the back.
 
sfergson727 said:
I tend to agree. I don't use a support on my whaler, and honestly, I don't think it needs one. The whaler is stout, and even the 60 horse big foot engine only weighs about 260 lbs. The whaler is a solid boat, and built as a coastal, so for me, the only concern would be what would happen if the trim hydraulics failed while you were towing. The safety latch will catch it, once, and then it will need to be replaced, but it would prevent a shortened skeg.
Click to expand...

My engine sat on the safety catch. I retracted the cylinders so road trash wouldn't scar up the pistons.
 
That's why I had a Johnson.:grin: Things were built a little stouter then. Of course my boat was built in Hingham MA. before the move to FLA. and then the Brunswick takeover.
 
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