Camper Top problem on 340DA

[Tomco]

We had a new camper top built for our 2003 340 in the spring. They did a great job, looks good but ... a couple things showed up that we haven't been able to resolve so I wanted to check with you guys to see if you can help out. The most significant issue is that they did not account for the aft starboard seat (part of the wrap-around rear seat) lifting with the engine hatch - it hits the tops support arms at a point that makes it impossible getting into the engine compartment. The only solution is removing the two rear support arms from the clips, which allows enough side movement to open the engine hatch. They have fiddled with it but really don't have any solution on how to permanently fix. Their response is that it is not uncommon to have to remove parts of the top to get into the engine compartment - I don't buy it! Has anyone else put a camper top on and able to open the hatch without any problems? Second issue is that on a cool damp evening, when we got up in the morning the glass had a distinct blue color. To the point that it was difficult to see through it. Any idea why it would turn color? I eventually went clear again!

 

[Kreole Kid]

Tom, are the support bases located on the wrap around side of that aft seat. If so, that is the wrong location for them, they should be mounted on the outer side closer to where the vents are located for the bilge blowers. I'll see if I can attach a pic of my setup. Hope that helps...

 

[Tomco]

Hi Bruce, the support bases on mine are further forward than what your are. Are you able to open your hatch fully? Here is what mine looks like I noticed in your pic that your front sections have zippers - how do you like this? We are planning on getting the front sections redone this year and were thinking of doing the same. The company that I got the camper top from advised against it because of the angle of the window and the likelihood that water would get in. Do you have any problems with yours? would you make any changes if you had to do it over again?

 

[Kreole Kid]

Tom, where exactly is it hitting the support arms?? Mine opens all the way, I just have to unsnap the back camper panels to allow the hatch to rise so it doesn't pull them off.

 

[Tomco]

Hi Bruce, The hatch/seat only lifts about 6" before the seat hits the forward support bar. My support arms are tilted inwards on both sides, this give the top a nice shape with the rest of the boat but is now causing the problem. They have replaced the forward support arm with one that is 'wider', and while it works better, the top doesn't fit well and some zippers cannot be closed. Was looking to see if anyone else had this problem and how they solved it. How do you like the zippers in the front panels? any leaking?

 

[Kreole Kid]

Here are two more shots with the camper package all the way up, pic was taken 2 years ago.

 

[Kreole Kid]

I'm assuming you're referring to the front smilie faces, down here in N.O. you can't live without ventilation of some kind. I also just got smilie's in my side panels too. Big difference instead of having to remove the entire panel.

 

[Kreole Kid]

Hi Bruce, The hatch/seat only lifts about 6" before the seat hits the forward support bar. My support arms are tilted inwards on both sides, this give the top a nice shape with the rest of the boat but is now causing the problem. They have replaced the forward support arm with one that is 'wider', and while it works better, the top doesn't fit well and some zippers cannot be closed. Was looking to see if anyone else had this problem and how they solved it. How do you like the zippers in the front panels? any leaking?

Tom can they reposition the forward support arms?? They are obviously too close to the inside, right?

 

[Hampton]

I had this issue as well. I ended up taking the canvas off (temporarily) and re-shaping the structure on my own. I moved the supports out further and matched the shape to the flow of the arch. Then, I had a professional re-shape the canvas. It cost me another $2500. I hated the way it was before re-working it.

I didn't love it when I was done, but I tolerated it. In my opinion, it's almost impossible to keep the boat looking good with that much canvas installed, but it makes the boat's useful space much, much larger.

 

[carterchapman]

I don't own mine anymore, but the new owner's had us up for dinner on her last night - I wish I would have read this prior to going, as I would have taken pictures - we had the same problem on our 340.

My side canvas attached further outboard than Bruce's, but my supports were inboard and the seat would hit it. I was able to take Hampton's advice (4 years ago) and move (re-bend) the support poles outboard about 5" and this solved my problem.

 

[Tomco]

I had this issue as well. I ended up taking the canvas off (temporarily) and re-shaping the structure on my own. I moved the supports out further and matched the shape to the flow of the arch. Then, I had a professional re-shape the canvas. It cost me another $2500. I hated the way it was before re-working it.

I didn't love it when I was done, but I tolerated it. In my opinion, it's almost impossible to keep the boat looking good with that much canvas installed, but it makes the boat's useful space much, much larger.

John, when you say you had to 're-shape' the canvas .. what does that mean? Like yours, the top is shaped with the flow of the arch, they have replaced the main support arm with one that is 3" wider (but left the connectors in the same spot) but the result is not that good. The hatch is able to lift about half way but the fitting of the panels is now off, with a couple that cannot close (3" gap!). It seems that short of redoing the top, there is a compromise that will be required. Not sure what to do ... thanks for all the advice/help ... much appreciated

 

[Tomco]

I'm assuming you're referring to the front smilie faces, down here in N.O. you can't live without ventilation of some kind. I also just got smilie's in my side panels too. Big difference instead of having to remove the entire panel.

Bruce ... would you have any pictures of the front (with the smiley faces). I'd like to see how it looks. I like the idea of not having to take the panels out all the time. Did you have any leaking issues?

 

[Hampton]

All you ever wanted to know but were afraid to ask.

http://clubsearay.com/showthread.php/15728-Re-Doing-340-Camper-Canvas

 

[Hampton]

Copied from 320 thread:

On my 340, it was about $7500, but I got Makrolon in front and Strataglass in the back, had screens made for three of the windows, and other nice additions.

Take your time and get involved. Tell them exactly what you expect. Where do you want the supports relative to the walk-around/cockpit? On the inner edge? middle? Outside? Do you want purely vertical curtains for maximum room or a shape that matches the lines of the boat/arch. Do you expect to be able to sit upright on the back seat without your hair brushing the glass? Do you want one large aft top or a bimini and an extension? (You probably will not take the top down.)

Get UV resistant, large, plastic zippers.
Get UV resistant thread.
Pay for Strataglass. Consider Makrolon up front.
Have them make the front, center piece so it swings open and snaps to the arch (if they're doing that much).
Do no let them make the piece behind the arch with a 90 degree angle at the top, back. It needs to be about 110 degrees so that the vertical line leans with the line of the boat, not opposite.
Make sure the first, whole piece behind the arch rolls up to access the walk-arounds. Have them sew straps at the tops the right size and placement to roll it up and wrap it, and snap it up.
Make sure they put at least a 3" flap over the zippers at the tops of the curtains. Have a way to snap them down over the zippers.
Don't let them leave holes that you can see out of at zipper junctions - have a flap made.
Don't use standard snaps, but the ones with poles screwed into the deck.
Have them sew plastic liners under the female 1/2 of the snap to protect the material.
Think carefully about what kind of material you use on the top piece.
Inspect the framework for placement, shape, and overall design before wrapping it in $4500 of material and labor. Have them change whatever you don't like before it's complete, not a year later like me.
Have them design the panel over the transom door to match the door's width, then mirrow that on the other side. The middle section covers the rest.
Don't let them put a vertical support beam in one spot, and then a vertical seam a couple of inches to the side - they should overlap.
Have your guy make soft, fuzzy pole covers to protect your windows.

Open the engine hatch to show them the limiitations at the back sides. EDIT: TAKE NOTE OF THIS LINE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Link to more: http://clubsearay.com/forum/showthre...ficial&page=39

 

[Kreole Kid]

Bruce ... would you have any pictures of the front (with the smiley faces). I'd like to see how it looks. I like the idea of not having to take the panels out all the time. Did you have any leaking issues?

Sorry Tom, I JUST SAW this post, here ya go and no it doesn't leak

 

[Kreole Kid]

Here's a few more Tom, It certainly helps with the airflow / cooling of the cockpit area when the smiley's are rolled open.