Bottom Paint Suggestions

D

DavHJ

Member
Jul 9, 2007
52
Rhode Island
Boat Info
1990 Express Cruiser
Engines
Twin 454"s with straight shafts.
I've been using an ablative bottom paint same brand for 15 years (New England Paint Made in Rhode Island) and it has worked fine when I was in a marina with deep cool water and boats on both sides for shade.
Now I'm on a private dock warmer shallow water and no boats for shade my starboard side sees the morning sun so now I'm seeing more groth and barnicles. I'm in salt water in Rhode Island, am a weekend boater and keep it in the water from May to October. Any suggestions as to what would be a better bottom paint?

Thanks,
Dave
 
DavHJ said:
I've been using an ablative bottom paint same brand for 15 years (New England Paint Made in Rhode Island) and it has worked fine when I was in a marina with deep cool water and boats on both sides for shade.
Now I'm on a private dock warmer shallow water and no boats for shade my starboard side sees the morning sun so now I'm seeing more groth and barnicles. I'm in salt water in Rhode Island, am a weekend boater and keep it in the water from May to October. Any suggestions as to what would be a better bottom paint?

Thanks,
Dave
Click to expand...

What are your neighbors using. Are they having any luck? if so, use that.
 
For many years I've been an Interlux fan. I've used Micron CSC for a while until they came out with Micron Extra (it fights the slime better). I'm still using it with good results. Other than the price I don't have a reason for an alternative. However, underwater gear is another story. Trilux 33 just doesn't hold well, despite the fact that I've used it by the book and applied promocon first. So, now after talking to the techs at Interlux I'm using two coats of promocon and Micron Extra on underwater gear as well (not the Trilux 33). Only time will show whether this was better approach or not.
 
I just bought, for the first time, at WM, Seafit multi-year oil based ablative paint... It was $103 per gal on sale... I was told that is similar to MICRON CSC extra, at about 1/2 the cost... I the past I have used waterbased Petit ablative paint. I use the 33 on the out drive and running gear... But to answer your question, as long as your bottom is in good shape most of the off the shelf ablative paints should work... The barnicles will build up on the metal (trim tabs and running gear)... I have to dive in a couple time a year and clean the running gear...
 
I contacted Pettit just to see what they would say and they suggested using pettit hydrocoat. any body have any comments on that?

Thanks
Dave
 
My set-up is similar. Shallow canal on Long Island, boat in the water May - October. I use Pettit Hydrocoat and have had excellent results. Also used Aquaguard which is cheaper and easier to roll with excellent results. Hydrocoat has a higher copper content (reason I use it) so it is not as black as Aguaguard but either would be fine.
 
DavHJ said:
I contacted Pettit just to see what they would say and they suggested using pettit hydrocoat. any body have any comments on that?

Thanks
Dave
Click to expand...

FWIW, my dealer told me that Hydrocoat was Sea Ray's OEM choice when they deliver a bottom-painted boat; this dealer doesn't use anything else. I have had good results with mine, first application in my case lasted 3 years and still seemed to be going strong. I have had good results with PropSpeed for the running gear, that lasted 3 years for me as well.
 
Al,

Did you use PropSpeed on props only or did you use it on any other gear as well (rudders, shafts, struts, trim tabs)?
 
Wow, thanks for all the good info. I think I have narrowed down my choices to Hydracoat and Supershipbottom. Amazon.com sells Hydracoat probibly cheaper than WM and I'll call Supershipbottom for pricing also.
I'll post my decision.

Thanks again,
Dave
 
alnav said:
Alex, it's on all the running gear except the trim tabs.
Click to expand...

I had propspeed on my props. PO had it done, but it had to be stripped off during prop scan when I brought the props to the shop (props were due for tuning). But, one thing I know is that propspeed works well on the props. Can you tell me how is it working on the rest of the gear. I'm looking for better solution than repainting all underwater gear every year, but I've read that in order for the propspeed to work well the painted parts have to move to "shake off" what's trying to get attached on it. So, I can see how it can work fine on props and shafts, but what about the rest of the gear that don't move much (e.g. exhaust, struts, rudders)?
 
Alex F said:
I had propspeed on my props. PO had it done, but it had to be stripped off during prop scan when I brought the props to the shop (props were due for tuning). But, one thing I know is that propspeed works well on the props. Can you tell me how is it working on the rest of the gear. I'm looking for better solution than repainting all underwater gear every year, but I've read that in order for the propspeed to work well the painted parts have to move to "shake off" what's trying to get attached on it. So, I can see how it can work fine on props and shafts, but what about the rest of the gear that don't move much (e.g. exhaust, struts, rudders)?
Click to expand...
Alex, I keep the boat in the water all year so I rarely saw the bottom myself but the diver I use always said the running gear was remarkably clean. I did see the bottom during a hurricane scare haul-out in year 2 of three and there was no attached growth to any of the running gear (I didn't even have to have her power-washed). Same story when she came out in year 3 for a re-do of bottom paint and re-application of PropSpeed. I do believe that strict adherence to the prep instructions is vital for this application, maybe more-so than for other coatings. I was blessed with a super-anal bottom coating team that had lots of experience and I think that made a real difference, so I would not scrimp on the labor for this if you hire somebody with experience to do it. On the other hand, I am half-way up the Chesapeake in less-salty waters and there may be a difference the closer the boat lives to the ocean but I'm not sure of that.
 
Well I went with the Pettit Hydracoat, WM had it on the shelf so that made it easier. I hope I made the right choise I'll post on how it went on and in tha fall I report on how good or bad it worked for my conditions.
Thanks for all the replys and good info. I still am going to keep an eye on Supershipbottom if the Hydracoat doesn't work for me also I'm going to check out Prop Speed it sounds like it is a good product.

Thanks,
Dave
 
DavHJ said:
Well I went with the Pettit Hydracoat, WM had it on the shelf so that made it easier. I hope I made the right choise I'll post on how it went on and in tha fall I report on how good or bad it worked for my conditions.
Thanks for all the replys and good info. I still am going to keep an eye on Supershipbottom if the Hydracoat doesn't work for me also I'm going to check out Prop Speed it sounds like it is a good product.

Thanks,
Dave
Click to expand...

I was born and raised in R.I. so I know how short and valuable the season is. If you have a water proof camera bag or a cheap disposable water proof digital camera, you could make a time lapse album over the season for less than $10.

I wonder if SSB would sell you a quart to use on a square foot or so as a comparison. I remember the USCG allowing URI to test different paints and metals at Warwick Light.

======================

ADD

From what I understand, Propspeed is best left to a professional applicator. The prep is a bear to get right.
 
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