Anyone think this boat is on the trailer a little too far back?

Although I'm not an expert, I can at least share my experience. Firstly, I believe the tongue weight needs to be in line with the specs of your tow vehicle. Too heavy, or too light is not a good thing. Secondly, the boat's weight needs to be centered over the axles correctly. Whether the boat's transom is lined up with the back of the bunks isn't automatically an indicator that the boat is sitting correctly, even if the trailer is custom.

I have a 280 and it really was a trial and error when I first purchased. The dealer had put the boat on the trailer, and when I was driving home from Minneapolis behind my F350, I noticed that things just didn't feel right. Whenever I started from a stop, my rear truck tires would spin sometimes. I also noticed that the distance from my rear tire to the trailer fender was less than the other two tires. Also after driving a distance, I noticed that the rear tires of the trailer felt warmer to touch that the others.

The next time I dunked the boat, I put it on the trailer a couple of more inches. (Literally about 2 inches). This made all the difference. I didn't even have to make any adjustments to the trailer, but just pulled up a little more. (There seems to be a little play at least with our boat since the bow eye never wants to sit next to the bow roller and always backs off a little bit).

In short, most likely you should be able to position possibly without making any adjustments to the trailer. For some reason, an inch here or there really makes a big difference when you get into larger boats.
 
Wow, dpvandy01, a new trailer? That looks like a new 280 on a new trailer. Good job in keeping that 2001 in great shape.
 
I see only two good possible reasons the OPs man felt the boat should move forward on the trailer: 1) the boat is overhanging the bunks 2) he suspects there is not enough tongue weight.

The OPs question actually can't be answered with any certainty, but the responses are all over the place. Like, you might have to move the axles, the engines have to be over the axles(not so), sterndrives vs v-drives, and I need the weight distribution of the boat. That last one might be complicated stuff for some people; are we going to have a thread called Statics for Boaters?

The enthusiasm to help sometimes can be confusing.
 
Woody said:
I see only two good possible reasons the OPs man felt the boat should move forward on the trailer: 1) the boat is overhanging the bunks 2) he suspects there is not enough tongue weight.

The OPs question actually can't be answered with any certainty, but the responses are all over the place. Like, you might have to move the axles, the engines have to be over the axles(not so), sterndrives vs v-drives, and I need the weight distribution of the boat. That last one might be complicated stuff for some people; are we going to have a thread called Statics for Boaters?

The enthusiasm to help sometimes can be confusing.
Click to expand...

Thank goodness for the enthusiasm! I have already saved money before buying this boat as I learned what to look for when shopping.

Anyway, the boat was picked up at 1230 today and has a 7.5 hour trip to her new home. The driver hasn't checked in, but the dealership did. I asked about the pic.s and I was assured by the Sea Ray tech that the boat has been properly speced out by them and Road King. As for an explanation as to why the bunks are looking like they are hanging 2 feet off the rear of the trailer he said the boat weighed out that way for the proper set up. I asked if the trailer was too short and he said it was 28 feet.

I guess we'll see what the driver says about it when I see him in the morning. I'll tell you that I am going directly to my long trusted boat guys who have lifts to pull the boat off and make adjustments if needed.

I'll have more later.
 
medic3538 said:
Thank goodness for the enthusiasm! I have already saved money before buying this boat as I learned what to look for when shopping.

Anyway, the boat was picked up at 1230 today and has a 7.5 hour trip to her new home. The driver hasn't checked in, but the dealership did. I asked about the pic.s and I was assured by the Sea Ray tech that the boat has been properly speced out by them and Road King. As for an explanation as to why the bunks are looking like they are hanging 2 feet off the rear of the trailer he said the boat weighed out that way for the proper set up. I asked if the trailer was too short and he said it was 28 feet.

I guess we'll see what the driver says about it when I see him in the morning. I'll tell you that I am going directly to my long trusted boat guys who have lifts to pull the boat off and make adjustments if needed.

I'll have more later.
Click to expand...


Your trailer is aluminum. The weight behind the axles is unsupported, and will bend down under the weight. That's my opinion based upon talking to the EZ loader people. I wanted to extend my trailer so that the bunks and frame extended out to the stern. I wanted the tie downs to not touch the hull when strapped down. I had to customize a stock trailer, ie. bought a larger size (EZ Loader) and moved the axles to get the tounge weight needed. What you'll find is that, because of Sea Ray design, your "actual hull" length is much shorter than overall length. Mike
 
islandhopper00 said:
Your trailer is aluminum. The weight behind the axles is unsupported, and will bend down under the weight. That's my opinion based upon talking to the EZ loader people. I wanted to extend my trailer so that the bunks and frame extended out to the stern. I wanted the tie downs to not touch the hull when strapped down. I had to customize a stock trailer, ie. bought a larger size (EZ Loader) and moved the axles to get the tounge weight needed. What you'll find is that, because of Sea Ray design, your "actual hull" length is much shorter than overall length. Mike
Click to expand...

Hey Mike, PM me and give me your number if you don't mind. I have a couple of questions for you. Or, if you prefer, I'll give you my personal email if that is o.k.
 
I problably have more experience towing things than boating (its what I do for a living.) They did to you what they did to my dad with his boat. They ran out of proper trailers and modifyed a smaller one to "Work".
They appeat to have the right 3 axel settup for your boat. But the last axle is all the way back on the trailer frame. Look carefully, the boat is however well supported. the bunks go to the end of the transom. The boat is fine, but the trailer frame is way too short. If you moved the Bunks and the boat foward on the trailer, the bow will be over the tounge. assuming you can cet the bowpost that far foward.
The bunks and axles are proper, but on the wrong frame.
This is what they did to my Dad. He bought a new 18 ft ArrowGlass in 86, and pulled it with a Ford truck. The axles of the ogiginal trailer were not wide enough for the tires to clear the side of the hull, so they raised the boat and the fenders were dirrectly under the hull, again, not a wide boat. When you offloaded the boat she either fell off the trailer or you burried the trailer completly, somethong Dad hated doing, (but then we never did need new berrings.)
Not only that but the trailer had no brakes. The rule is that if the trailer weighs more than 1/3 the weight of the tow vehicle, brakes are required. Again this was the wrong trailer for that boat.
After about 3 weeks, the marina that Sold Dad the boat gave him the proper trailer. The boat sat between the fenders and was lower to the ground. Dad said towing it was a night and day difference.
Again, you have the wrong trailer cobbled together to work.:smt009
 
What's the overall length of the trailer. It looks way too short.
My trailer is 32.5' long and the transom lines up with the back of the bunk.
 
The most important part of a trailer is the GVW gross weight. The suspension and axels should handle it. As far as safety while towing, you can confirm with a reputable traielr manufacturer as to the proper tongue weight needed. If yoru tongue weight is too light, you will have poor stability on the road and un-necessary swaying. The boat can be adjusted ont eh trailer as needed to assure proper weight distribution and tongue weight required.
 
I Tow a 2001 310 Sundancer and the things that I feel are the most important are first and foremost,good support .The fiberglass vessel and drive equipment should be supported along their length. My boat has v drives and an improper supporting of the boat ,lets say letting it hang off the bunks can really screw up engine shaft alignment.If you let your boat hang aft of the bunks by any significant amount you will stress the hull. The next thing is alxe weight distribution. I think it should be as even as possible . Bringing a boat forward to increase tongue wt, is sometimes needed however it shouldn't be done at the expense of overworking one axle. This is a disaster waiting to happen. And finally ,tongue wt for controllability and breaking should be at least 10% of the gross. I place 1200# on my hitch and use load distribution to spread the load. A light tongue load will lead to rear antilock brake ineffectiveness of the tow vehicle as well as a dangerous sway potential when the gear jammers fly by you on the interstate. This is true if you have surge brakes. The key to safe loading is to start with a trailer built for the boat. The next best option is to move the bunking to find a good combination of those three factors. It can be a large task requiring a tongue weight scale and a hoist plus a good deal of time. When I picked up my Sundancer from Marinemax ,they thought I was nuts when I told them of the loading and unloading of the boat with their hoist that was needed. I showed up with a scale and said I need 1200# on my Ball and we will move things until it's right. You only have to do this once and then your set. I can personally vouch for the results. The load is secure and controllable in all conditions. I did order a trailer with greater capacity than needed ,but as long as you dont overload any one aspect of these things too greatly,they are quite strong. I would also add that the way a boat looks loaded on a trailer can be deceiving. The difference in appearance of a stern drive cruiser vs. a v drive cruiser are immense. My advice is to take your time and get the load right by the numbers and stay safe.
 
I completely agree with Jitts3. That trailer is just too short. Those bunks are made of wood and that is way too much weight hanging over the back end of the trailer frame unsupported. In addition, getting the tounge weight right is important for proper towing down the road. However, when the bunks bend or break, you have a whole new set of problems. Also, you will hate that trailer when you start launching and recovering. Short trailers are no fun at the boat ramp. Make them get you the right length. I use a 33' dual axle 10,000# trailer for my 270. Hope that helps.
 
I'm 43 and have been trailering since I was 16, here's my opinion for what it's worth;

* looks to me like the boat's 10" +/- too far back
* ensure the trailer frame is level under towing conditions (very important with tri-axle)
* 10% (+/-) tongue weight should be good for your application
* testing is the only way to find the perfect set-up

I found a 'like new' used galvanized, tri-axle, triple disc, roller / bunk combo unit a while back. I bought it for my 240 with the intentions of getting a 260 in the future (now I want a 280 but that's another 2-foot-itis story).
When I first used it I had the opposite problems; boat too far forward and the trailer was 'tongue high' even though the tongue weight was a bit on the high side. I moved the winch post back and made up a 4" drop receiver for my 2003 Ford F150 FX4 now it tows beautifully... aspecially on the highway. Of course tri-axles don't like the tight turns but I try and 'swing wide' where I can.
Your 260 does appear to be the maximum length for that trailer but it will be just fine in my opinion. It looks like a standard aluminum I-beam 10500 triple... those are rated 24' to 28' aren't they?

You all did the math didn't ya'!
43 minus 16 equals 27 :)
 
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magster65 said:
I'm 43 and have been trailering since I was 16, here's my opinion for what it's worth;

* looks to me like the boat's 10" +/- too far back
* ensure the trailer frame is level under towing conditions (very important with tri-axle)
* 10% (+/-) tongue weight should be good for your application
* testing is the only way to find the perfect set-up

I found a 'like new' used galvanized, tri-axle, triple disc, roller / bunk combo unit a while back. I bought it for my 240 with the intentions of getting a 260 in the future (now I want a 280 but that's another 2-foot-itis story).
When I first used it I had the opposite problems; boat too far forward and the trailer was 'tongue high' even though the tongue weight was a bit on the high side. I moved the winch post back and made up a 4" drop receiver for my 2003 Ford F150 FX4 now it tows beautifully... aspecially on the highway. Of course tri-axles don't like the tight turns but I try and 'swing wide' where I can.
Your 260 does appear to be the maximum length for that trailer but it will be just fine in my opinion. It looks like a standard aluminum I-beam 10500 triple... those are rated 24' to 28' aren't they?

You all did the math didn't ya'!
43 minus 16 equals 27 :)
Click to expand...

I see this has been an interesting subject for all of us>
Here is the latest:
1. No problems really with putting in and taking out, we do have a awesome put in as the cement runs 40 ft into the river at low tide.

2. I have noticed that the back wheels look like they're "bending outwards" on tight turns.

3. I AGREE that the trialer is too short as well and my dealer does not. Neither does Road King.

4. When the bunks break I am screwed!

5. I, for now am lucky as my storage, gas station and put in ramp are all approx. 300 yards round trip.

6. I am now looking for the proper trailer for our boat and will be trying to do a trade or sell mine or, whatever. For now, I am stuck with what I have. I am considering (when I have the time) to maybe see if I can do something legally. BUT..I am sure that will cost me more time and money than a new trailer is worth.

Thanks to all and I will be taking steps to ensure that it does not fall off.
 
medic3538 said:
2. I have noticed that the back wheels look like they're "bending outwards" on tight turns.
Click to expand...
A multi-axle trailer puts lots of lateral force on the tires during tight turns.

Ensure the tires are specified for trailer usage, as those have stronger side walls.
 
wingless said:
A multi-axle trailer puts lots of lateral force on the tires during tight turns.

Ensure the tires are specified for trailer usage, as those have stronger side walls.
Click to expand...

O.K., thanks for that. Tires are definately rated for trailers. This trailer was "speced out and built specifically for this boat" per the Road King folks. It is really starting to get on my nerves. I am just happy there have been no problems as of yet.

I am going to just have to deal for now. Thanks for the info!
 
Actually, your trailer looks the way a lot of aluminum trailers look. They almost always end the I -beams well before the transom. I had a custom aluminum trailer built for my 260 and specified longer I-beams.

If your trailer is rated for the weight, and your tongue weight is correct, you should be fine. If the bow is snugged down tightly, the bunks won't break, and even if they did, the boat would not be able to pivot to fall off. Does that make sense?
 
Here's a couple photos of my 260 on the trailer.

DSC01332.jpg


DSC01338.jpg
 
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