Anchoring 101

Most of us here have similar setups for the anchor, windlass, anchor rollers, does anyone know if a claw/bruce style anchor setup will work with the existing SeaRay anchor roller that is already on the bow?

Or, what would be needed to make the change, I would assume a longer anchor roller?
 
Doug,

Thanks for the write up. You had mentioned few interesting tips and the stress test of bruce anchor with 90-120kts wind is impressive. Can't bit that.

Thanks for sharing your experience.

dmcb said:
Also you count the feet needed including the bow pulpit to the water. That can be several feet. And your depth sounder may be 2 feet below the surface. If you have not calibrated it you have to add that. 6 feet from pulpit to water, 2 feet of water, 8 feet X 7 is an additional 56 feet of rode. I believe this is the main reason many slip anchor.
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Excellent point.
 
Cocktail Time said:
More rode good, understood. Some of us have an anchor and rode package that does not easily hook in shallow water or rocky/clay bottoms. IE a Good windlass and Danforth anchor combo found in many boats like my '95.
My question is: Is there a way to add a short length of chain to the rode with this type of tackle that would be worth while? and or, would using a different anchor design that does not need chain/weight to keep the anchor parallel to the bottom? Obviously you could add a foot or less of chain between the rode and anchor but is that enough to help? Or, would it be better to use a different type of anchor with a heavier shank or setting characteristics? I look at my vintage boat and others that are larger that still have the original setup. Anyone have a better mousetrap for the limitations mentioned?
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No shortcut here. While the anti-chafe protection afforded by chain is important, it's primary purpose is to help keep the load/pull on the anchor more horizontal (weight), and absorb the ups/downs of the boat anchored in heavy seas. Upgrade your original Good to the new "F" model that handles rope/chain rode, or you can add a length of chain to your rope rode and manually pull the anchor that last bit, stowing the chain on deck.

The Fortress (I have an FX-23) does pose some problems because of it's light weight- takes forever to reach bottom in deep water and benefits from a lot of chain.

As far as the original comment about cleating off to take the strain off the windlass, that depends on the manufacturer. It is not necessary with the Good "F" windlasses.
 
A tip I learned from another site to mark chain is use a good grade nylon tie wrap. Different colors for different length.
Use small tie wraps and they go through the windless without damage.
I haven't tried it yet but I have the tie wraps. I am going to use more for each 25 feet and a different color after 100 feet just to show its over 100 feet.
He said not to cut them off and they are very easy to see.
My paint doesn't last very well and I look forward to this working.
Again I have not tried it so I am passing on what the guy said.
I do know the poster to be reliable.
Doug
 
As far as the original comment about cleating off to take the strain off the windlass, that depends on the manufacturer. It is not necessary with the Good "F" windlasses.
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I have yet to see a manufacturer that advises to not use a cleat or chain stop on their windlass. Better type windlasses have a clutch which will drag if subjected to too much pull which would cause the boat to drag at anchor in a good blow. If the model has no clutch, you will damage your windlass.

Not saying none exist, just saying I have never heard of one. Can you link to one that does?
 
Midnightsun said:
I have yet to see a manufacturer that advises to not use a cleat or chain stop on their windlass. Better type windlasses have a clutch which will drag if subjected to too much pull which would cause the boat to drag at anchor in a good blow. If the model has no clutch, you will damage your windlass.

Not saying none exist, just saying I have never heard of one. Can you link to one that does?
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This is the link to Good Automatic Windlass. They were OEM for Sea Ray for many years until they refused to make their product cheap enough for SR to continue using (I've been told).

http://www.goodwindlass.com/

Their manual states that cleating-off is not necessary under "normal" (non-storm) conditions. I've owned mine for three years, never cleated-off the rode, and the windlass has never failed to operate properly. I've owned others, and nothing has even come close in terms of reliability.

Anyone ever seen these before??
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Chain_markers.jpg
 
tobnpr said:
This is the link to Good Automatic Windlass. They were OEM for Sea Ray for many years until they refused to make their product cheap enough for SR to continue using (I've been told).

http://www.goodwindlass.com/

Their manual states that cleating-off is not necessary under "normal" (non-storm) conditions. I've owned mine for three years, never cleated-off the rode, and the windlass has never failed to operate properly. I've owned others, and nothing has even come close in terms of reliability.

Anyone ever seen these before??
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Chain_markers.jpg
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That sounds like a great windlass.
The advise to cleat off is still good because as Hans says most windlass will be damaged if subjected to the strain.
Some may be unaware of that.
One other point. I have been the recipient of a severe, unexpected storm in the middle of the night many times.
I like to anchor for the worst conditions and hope for the best conditions. :smt001
Doug
 
Their manual states that cleating-off is not necessary under "normal" (non-storm) conditions.
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Personally I do not cleat off myself for day time calm weather use. I agree, most times it is not required but over night is another story. As quoted above they recommend to tie off in stronger blows. I would not take the chance by not tying off before calling it a night as you never know what will blow in. :wink:

Thanks for the link by the way. I had never heard of that company before. :thumbsup:
 
We had some "enlightening" discussions here on anchoring:

http://clubsearay.com/forum/showthread.php?t=15178&highlight=windlass

Another way to make an educated guess on how much rope/chain you let out is to look up (or calculate) the rate at which it is deployed. The spec sheet for your windlass should have it... or just let it out for 5 seconds and calculate it and write it down. Generally speaking the anchor rode is not under strain when you are letting it out so it will be about right. Then just count in your head as your deploying the anchor... yes.. it's probably only good for + or - 10%... let out a little extra then.
 
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Another way to make an educated guess on how much rope/chain you let out is to look up (or calculate) the rate at which it is deployed. The spec sheet for your windlass should have it... or just let it out for 5 seconds and calculate it and write it down. Generally speaking the anchor rode is not under strain when you are letting it out so it will be about right. Then just count in your head as your deploying the anchor... yes.. it's probably only good for + or - 10%... let out a little extra then.
Click to expand...

Another way to approximate is to measure how much rode is let out for each rotation of the windlass sproket. I know it sounds difficult but you can actually get pretty good at counting the revolutions and know pretty acurately how much rode you have let out.
 
Jack380AC said:
Another way to approximate is to measure how much rode is let out for each rotation of the windlass sproket. I know it sounds difficult but you can actually get pretty good at counting the revolutions and know pretty acurately how much rode you have let out.
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Once you knew the drop rate, a stop watch would work well also.
 
I actually like the colored "ties" as an idea. Would be interesting to see if this actually works and if it will allow the chain and/or rope to remain "on track" through the windlass.
 
I use a grapnel anchor with about 30 feet of chain for a 185 sport. Is that ok for 4-5 beaufort waves in shallow water.
 
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Great thread.

Someone was asking about replacing the windlass on an older Sea Ray. I replaced the Benson that came with my boat last spring. I did post pictures of the install on the board. I was an easy swap used the existing wires and switch. 100' of chain and 100' of rope and a 12kg Claw anchor, the anchor is rated for I believe a 33' boat. I have only had problems once with this type of anchor slipping before that I had a danforth and it was always slipping. I marked my chain with a can of Tremclad paint I sprayed a 2' section white at 25' and at 50' white, black, white and at 75' black, white, black. Of course I did not have to mark it at the 100' mark as it changes to rope but I did mark the rope with the anchor ties at the 125, 150 and 175' mark. He has worked well for me over the years. The paint last a summer and I repaint as part of my pre launch service.
Last summer I spent 6 weeks on holidays on Georgian Bay and the North Channel and we only spent 6 nights at a marina. I will take anchoring out over being at a marina any time.

Ken
 
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I use the angle of the dangle, but we cheat around here. We back into the beach, so I judge my distance from the beach, drop the anchor and start backing down. I allow the boat to set the anchor a couple of times while backing - this also straightens the boat out if needed.

I pick where I'm going to anchor some times by looking at other people's rode. If their angle is too steep and they don't have all chain, I'll only anchor windward of them. If winds will be switching, or there may be storms, I'll stay away from them. If I see the line way out into the sound where I have to avoid it when backing in, they're a good neighbor.
 
sfergson727 said:
I don't think you can go wrong by having too much scope, unless you are packed like a sardine in the anchorage area. I always use two anchors if I am there for the night.
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Scott, when you use 2 anchors do you deploy them both off of the bow? When we anchor in the Sacramento Delta the tides move swiftly and spin your boat around every 5 hours or so. The one night we anchored I was not really ready for it and didn't sleep hardly at all. My wife said she could feel my nervousness so she couldn't sleep.

I did not cleat the line and heard a "click, click" a few times while trying to sleep. Of course by about 3AM it was socked-in fog so I could not tell if I had moved. I absolutely need more practice anchoring so I will be reading more of this thread and looking into links and suggestions. This is great!
 
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