Am I in trouble??

C

chandalen

New Member
Aug 7, 2011
367
Alexandra Bay,NY
Boat Info
'83 Sundancer 270, Humminbird 593c
Engines
Twin merc 305, with new SEI 106 drives
Winterizing my boat, all seemed to go well, changed the oil and noticed when dumping the oil down the sewer grate... (kidding) that there seemed to be a coppery / brass colour film with very small bubbles... The oil was thick and black, as I expected. NOT watery, and did not smell of fuel. Should I be worried?

When I filled the oil with new stuff... I did it via the left manifold engine oil opening (i sucked it out thru dip stick) I put in 7 quarts, as recommended my MFGR, and in spring I will adjust fire for the oil that will prob fill the new filter when i start it up the first time. IS THIS CORRECTLY done??

ALSO, emptied lower unit #1, were metal shavings on the magnetic screw on the bottom of #1 engine. Not too excessive. However the lube inside was a milky colour and not too oily like. I believe this is a problem, and was thinking this lower end needed to be serviced anyway.. ideas as to how bad it is?

LASTLY, the lower unit #2 drain screw is FROZEN, I opened the vent screw and good coloured and constancy oil oozed a little out the top. I think the screws were put in reverse as the vent screw had the magnetic tip on it, with metal shavings attached. My question on this one is... assuming i CAN NOT empty the oil, should I a. leave it alone and store the boat as normal, b. pull the whole lower end off and store in a climate control area, or c. work some freaky magic and suck the oil out the vent screw (if possible) or do my best to get the screw out somehow.

Max lowest temperature here is -30. Sustained is -15. Boat will be stored outdoors.

I really appreciate the assistance!!!
 
7 quarts? Sounds about 2 quarts too high. You might want to send the oil out to get analyzed at a company like Blackstone labs.

The milky drive lube is a concern, but it could just be from a bad seal. What base color is the lube? A "normal" oil color, or more of a bluish/green? I'd definitely get the lube out of the drives for the winter and refill with fresh synthetic. I'd even go as far as flushing the cavity from the top down with a half quart. Get new seals for the vent/fill screws. Next year, check the fluid after an hour, and then again in another hour, then in 10 hours.

Are you only using a screwdriver to try and get the frozen screw out?

The shavings sound normal.
 
I would not change oil till spring. Spring oil change would get any moisture out. If you change the filter and oil this year, you should fire up now! next spring that would be too drie of start.
 
Thanks!!

The SELOC book for the engine (after I checked again) said 5-7 qt. SO... since its already in there, I'll pull some out in spring.

I am unsure what the base colour of the lower unit lube was, I -assume- green as that was the colour of the #2 engines lube. When the #1 was draining it appeared to be light green maybe bluish/green. I did pass 1/2 a quart thru to clean it out better.

I was just using a screwdriver, I am gonna buy a bigger one that will fill the head better and I sprayed penetrating oil on it. Lets assume Im unable to remove the screw, should I remove the whole lower unit?

(bigblockcutlass)
I read mixed reviews as far as changing oil before or after the season. I decided on after just to be safe (worried about water in oil, as this boat is new to me, and I like to err on the side of caution.)

I am however waiting until spring to change the fuel filters until spring.

Thanks again.
 
That's a good thing that the synthetic lube was in there as it can deal with some water intrusion. Light green would indicate water.

To remove the screw - get a bit that fits on a socket wrench. It's basically the female side if a socket with a srewdriver tip attached. I will be much easier and less likely to slip, as well. I'd get it out. Don't want water in there. You can get an inexpensive set at places like Harbor Freight.
 
You definately want yo run the engines after the oil change all you have done is put new oil in the pan the old contaminated oil is still in all the lube journals. Check the dipstick if overfilled pull some out before running.
 
Bob & Sue said:
You definately want yo run the engines after the oil change all you have done is put new oil in the pan the old contaminated oil is still in all the lube journals. Check the dipstick if overfilled pull some out before running.
Click to expand...

As stated above, the importent part of the oil change is to get the new clean oil through the engine parts, and this is done by starting the engine now... Without starting your engine now you basicly wasted the oil change...
 
JimG, THANKS, I went to harbor freight and got the tool... worked like a champ!!
Thanks,
J
 
chandalen said:
LASTLY, the lower unit #2 drain screw is FROZEN
Click to expand...


if you have not already tried this, use a flat blade screwdriver or a chisel and place the tip in the left side corner of the groove in the cap screw and tap the screwdriver/chisel with a hammer forcing the screw to turn counterclockwise....the impact of the hammer blows will apply much more force to loosen the screw than can be applied by simply turning the screwdriver by hand....don't worry about damaging the screw...if it is damaged too much to reuse they are cheap to replace....



EDIT: just read your later post where you got he small impact tool from Harbor Freight and got the screw out...i have one of those too and they work welll...

Cliff
 
Last edited:
Did you get any water out of the drive? I'm interested because you said that oil leaked out the upper plug when you removed it. As this is the fill mark and water would make it over filled and make the oil leak out when the plug was removed.
 
+1 on priming the oil filter and running the engine after oil change.
 
Ok guys, I know you're just kidding. Or at least I hope so. Sorry to be so sensitive on this matter but we are in an uphill fight here on the Chesapeake Bay. Living right on the water and seeing things first hand every day is discouraging at times. One thing I will say for sure, for the most part the boaters on the Chesapeake and elsewhere are a good group of environmentally responsible people who protect their body of boating water. It's the industry and chicken farmers who we need to watch. Take care guys, and gals. Isn't this a great site.
George
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Forum statistics

Threads
113,228
Messages
1,428,964
Members
61,120
Latest member
jingenio
Back
Top