advice on putting a boat on a trailer without power

C

chris5635

Member
Aug 9, 2009
66
Orange Beach, AL
Boat Info
29' Carver(left the Sea Ray camp, looking to come back)
Engines
twin 350's inboard
Hi,

can anyone give me tips on how load a boat with out having engine power. The boat is a 1978 26' DA. I dont know for sure but im guessing it weighs around 6000#? I plan on buying a larger winch for the trailer someone suggested an electric but most that are made for boats seem rated for around 2000#. Any help would be appreciated and any tips to keep the boat centered without power would be great. The trailer is a dual axle with roller bunks.

Thanks,

Chris
 
Save your money.

Just do it a little bit at a time. Crank it on as far as you can, then back the trailer in the water another foot, crank, another foot, crank, etc. Don't kill yourself - just do a little at a time. If you want, you could have someone hold onto the stern of the boat by tying a line from the stern cleat. That way they could help keep it centered. Obviously, doing it on a calm day is highly recommended.
 
My main issues is im worried about the winch/cable failing having the full weight of the boat being pulled on it. I planned on tying lines to both stern cleats and hoping this wil help center the boat and also hopefully plan on having two able bodied people help pull on them to help float the boat on the trailer. I was hoping someone has had expirence trailering a boat this size w/o power. The place it normally rests is fairly high on the trailer and even with power it has been difficult to get it fully in position in the past.
 
Are you able to get the trailer all the way in the water where you can float the boat to the bow stop? If so then have your help keep the boat centered with guide ropes to the rear cleats. hook up the front bow loop to the winch, lock it down and then slowly pull out of the water. The winch should hold the boat close to the center line over the trailer while the help on the sides keeps the rear of the boat centered. or add some side bunks to the trailer and float the boat on. the key is getting the trailer deep enough to float the boat as close to position as possible.
 
Just back the trailer in further. If the ramp is too steep, you may need help keeping it centered as you pull out, but it shouldn't be a problem. No need to try and slide the boat up a dry bunk...
 
Don't put too much thought into it, Chris. Remember that the winch absolutely does not have to be rated for the full weight of the boat - you're not lifting it vertically or trying to hang the boat from the rafters in your garage with the winch.

Don't quote me on this, but I think the general rule of thumb is for the winch to be rated at about 1/4 to 1/3 the weight of the boat. Mine is rated for 2,500lbs... but it does have a very stern warning stamped on it.... "Not for moving humans".:lol: Seriously, it really does say that.

Get the bunks fully wet, first.
 
I never powerload my boat. Even in strong winds and currents, a couple of lines (one on the bow and one on the stern) to guide it with in tough situations is all I have ever used. Plant the trailer so the bunks are under water. My 8500lb boat floats on single handedly and I only have to crank it about 3' up to the winch stand. Most of the time I launch and load by myself.
 
On that note, last Thursday, I had to pull my boat out for our haul from FL back to MA. I got to the ramp at the same time as a 24' center console which had 3 guys on it. We both backed down the ramp at the same time. I got out and floated my boat onto the trailer and pulled out within a couple of minutes. The 3 men were still trying to power load when I left. They had 1 on the boat, one in the truck and one on the winch. They had the trailer so far out of the water and they were reving the engine to at least 2500 RPMs to try and drive it up onto the trailer. It was a sad moment, I felt like giving them some lessons, but knew it wouldn't fly with them. However, I'm sure the stunned looks on their faces when I drove away with my larger boat all alone in a fraction of the time it took them said enough.
 
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+1 on getting the trailer as far in the water as reasonably possible.
A strong shackle and a rope that wont recoil if it should snap are important if you need to winch your boat on.
An S shaped hook will pull straight as a friend of mine will attest after his straightened and hit him in the face.
 
If you are concerned about the winch line breaking, use an old four wheelers trick. Drape a heavy blanket, floor mat or the like over the line. If the line breaks or the hook slips, the blanket or floor mat will capture the force and allow the line to drop to the ground instead of flying into the winch operator or back of the two vehicle.

If you are winching vehicles, this is used quite often to prevent any harm if the winch cable breaks.

Rick.......
 
Alrite guys thanks for all the advice that has been offered here. I will put the trailer in all the way to the back wheels of the truck and go from there. I cant remember if all bunks are covered like this or not?(2nd season with the boat it is has always been docked so this will only be my second time loading the boat on the trailer). The ramp we will be using is fairly steep and i believe it will be about 3 ft btwn where we can float the boat and where it will be pulled to the bow stop. I will use the floor mat idea along with 2-3 lines tied to the boat and hopefully we will be able to float the boat as high as possible and the winch will take care of the rest. I should have plenty of hands to help. Again thanks for all the advice everyone has offered and hopefully it will be smooth sailing pulling the boat!
 
I winch my 30 footer on and off every weekend. It's not that hard and I only have to winch it up the last two or three feet. When you back the trailer into unload the boat, make a mental note of the waterline in relation to the truck. Back to the same point and winch the boat on. It should be pretty close. Also, back the trailer ALL the way into to get the bunks wet first then pull it back out. That will help with the friction when loading. If you are worried about the cable or strap breaking, get a new one! I use a tow strap that has a 10,000 lbs working rating. I cut it in half and have a spare. Plus, it has the hooks built in.
 
Be careful on a steep ramp. Depending on what is/isn't hanging off your bow (anchor) and how high your winch post is, you will run into the post. Plus, the further you put the trailer in, the more likely you are to float off it.

It certainly can work by putting the trailer in far, but it would be safer for you (especially since this is your first attempt at this) if you don't start so deep and then inch your way in like I described above.

Good luck with whatever you decide!:smt001
 
I have a 230 DA and a Shorelander roller trailer. I put a short piece of reflective tape on top of each of the rear trailer fenders to help my wife line the up the side of the boat using one line attached to the stern cleat.

I know the water depth I need above the fenders when backing the trailer down the ramp (a bit of trial and error). We then simply pull the boat far enough ahead so I can attach the winch line and I winch the boat up to the correct position at the bow roller. I connect the safety chain a slowly start to pull the unit out of the water. My wife can easily adjust the boat laterally to line up with the reflective strip and away we go.
 
ks65609 said:
I have a 230 DA and a Shorelander roller trailer. I put a short piece of reflective tape on top of each of the rear trailer fenders to help my wife line the up the side of the boat using one line attached to the stern cleat.

I know the water depth I need above the fenders when backing the trailer down the ramp (a bit of trial and error). We then simply pull the boat far enough ahead so I can attach the winch line and I winch the boat up to the correct position at the bow roller. I connect the safety chain a slowly start to pull the unit out of the water. My wife can easily adjust the boat laterally to line up with the reflective strip and away we go.
Click to expand...

Just to confirm you are pulling a 230DA with a Chevy Trailblazer? -- Wesley
 
First Born said:
Just to confirm you are pulling a 230DA with a Chevy Trailblazer? -- Wesley
Click to expand...


Wesley

The SS AWD blazer does a good job and is rated for 6500 tc. Auto levelling air bag suspension and weight distribution hitch create a very stable environment. The 6.0L LS2 runs around 1900 rpm at 90km per hour. It usually turns a few heads at the ramp when I pull the boat out with barely a grunt, and no wheel spin.

Ken
 
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