Advice for refastening screw portion of canvas snap

3

320Bob

Active Member
Nov 2, 2009
1,314
AZ
Boat Info
2012 Chaparral 267 SSX Sold
Engines
Boatless
The screw portion of one of my rear curtain canvas snaps came out of the hull. My question is it better to fill the hole with epoxy first then redrill or put the epoxy on the screw portion and then screw it back in and let the epoxy set? Or is there a better method to reattach it?
 
I have had great success by using cheap plastic screw shields or mollys tapped into the hole and resetting the screw.

I've not had to use any epoxy, just a dab of silicone to seal the hole. A 99 cent solution for a $25.00 problem and you have these at hole in your junk jar.
 
I've used 5200 in the hole, put screw back in and let dry for 2 days which seemed to work. I understand you can get oversized screws to work but difficult to find at my local marine store.
 
I like using 4200 or 4000UV to fill the holes, assuming there's some grip left and the hole is not extremely oversized. I apply enough to have the "glue" come out when I tighten the screw in. This way it fills the bottom part of the snap and adds extra "secure connection" point. If you just fill that the crew is kind of loose, then this should work just fine. I see no problems using 5200 either.
 
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I have the same problem with stripped out holes. I tried the epoxy trick with no luck. Seems like the epoxy just filled the hole and did not grip. Once I screwed the snap in place the epoxy screwed out with it. The holes are stripped with no grip. Any suggestions?
 
I prefer the marine tex method of filling the hole, letting it dry, drilling a pilot hole, then re-installing the same screw. I start by putting some masking tape over the hole then poking through it so the tape keeps the epoxy from getting on the gelcoat as you press it in there. I'm sure its over kill but I will put a dab of white caulk on the screw before threading it in.
 
For the screws where leaking water in not a problem, I like the plastic molly solution above... Where leaking water is problem, it is a must ot seal the hole... maybe marine caulk with a pastic molly might work best...
 
I recently purchased some MarineTex to fill a couple of holes that the previous owner had drilled. In reading the instructions, it had good info on repairing a screw hole just like you want to do. It said to appy a release agent to the threads (vaseline, silicon, etc.), then fill the hole with MarineTex and slowly screw in the screw. Wait a few hours for it to dry, then slowly unscrew and remove it. The threads will have been cast into the new hole. You can then let it cure, apply caulk and re-thread.

btw, the MarineTex is great stuff. Epoxy based but oesn't run, has a long work time, easy to sand and hardens like a rock. Drillable, tapable, paintable. Can mix coloring agents to it too. It might be what you need.

Tom
 
Just a preemptive post…..shoving a toothpick in the hole then screwing the snap back in will only work if your boat is a bayliner.

LOL!

Do not use a toothpick, ok?
 
+1 on the 4200. I have yet to replace one that I have reset.
 
Thanks guys,
As is usual lots of good suggestions to choose from. I think I'll stop by West Marine and get either some MarineTex or 5200 for the hole although the toothpick solution sounds tempting.:smt043
 
I just ordered snaps with a #10 screw. I think that is an easier solution than the epoxy route. Todd (Nehalennia) posted a source in an earlier post. $33.00 which included shipping.
 
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I checked West Marine online and they have only snap kits with only #8 screws. However one of their kits have both 3/8" and 5/8" screws. Longer should work just as well as fatter. I just fixed a door stoke plate this way Monday so worth a try on the boat. If it doesn't work the MarineTex is a backup plan.
 
MonacoMike said:
That's better, I thought $33 for a small quantity. MM
Click to expand...

I bought from Rochford Supply as per Todd's post, but they were $19 and change for 100 pcs., plus $13 and change for shipping. That is where I came up with $33.
 
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