Access to plugs/wires on 454 engines in a 2000 310

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The exhaust manifold runs right up to structure on the outboard side of both engines. I don't see a way to access the plugs and wires without removing the manifold and riser. Is this correct, or is there a better way? The manifolds/risers are new, so it should just take new gaskets to do the job right?

Any secrets or tips to getting this done? Also, can this be done in the water? I have Bravo III outdrives, so I don't have a seacock, but I also believe the impeller will hold any pressure back while working on it.

Thanks!

 

[Bt Doctur]

What I do on the 28 Coastal is rig up a hoist from the hardtop to take the weight while I remove and install the bolts.That close means you loosen the bolts but leave them in
the manifold.On the gasket, it can be installed backwards so be careful. Another trick is to notch the end holes to clear the bolts. install manifold without the gasket using the end bolts leaving a gap between the manifold and block. gasket can now be slipped between the manifold and head and over the end bolts, then install remaining bolts.

 

[rcknecht]

I can get at my plugs and wires without much trouble... I can't imagine your boat being that much harder...

 

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I can get at my plugs and wires without much trouble... I can't imagine your boat being that much harder...

On the outboard side of the engines, there is structure right up to the manifold. You can't see it clearly in this picture, but I think you can get the idea:



The bottom edge of the manifold is about 1" away from the corner of the raised section of the hull that the fuel tank and batteries sit on. I could go in from the front, but I would have to remove the alternator at the very least, and probably other items as well. If I could come in from behind it, I could probably reach them, but that's a no-go too, obviously. Taking off the manifold really does seem like the most straight-forward way to get to them.

It's the same on the port engine outboard side, too. These 454's just BARELY fit into the boat.

 

[rcknecht]

Wow, that is much tighter than my boat... You will have to at least pull the risers and elbows...

 

[SloBurn]

I trained a monkey to change my plugs.....you may want to have the marina do this. Sure sounds easier than pulling manifolds and gaskets. I know my 454 manifolds were HEAVY!!I had to cut them out as the bolts were corroded away to stubs. Was not fun. Do you really need to change plugs now?

 

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Do you really need to change plugs now?

The starboard engine is down on power and I need to pull the plugs to see if I'm getting a good burn on all pistons, and it wouldn't hurt to do a complete plug/wire change anyway. I just bought the boat 2 months ago, and while I had them put new risers/manifolds on before I took delivery, I didn't think to have them do a tune-up as well. I just didn't expect it to be this hard to do, and figured I would give them a good going over myself.

The wire to #8 is pinched between the block and the riser (sloppy install during the manifold change, obviously), and I tried replacing it (hoping that my power issue was a misfire/dead cylinder due to the wire), but that doesn't seem to be the problem, so I need to move on to stage 2.

BTW, before anyone suggests I have the guys who changed the risers work on it, they are in NJ, and I'm in VA. My marina is too small to have a serious mechanic, and the only good engine guy I know of in the area is backed up for almost 2 months. It's knuckle busting time, once again.

 

[CliffA]

The starboard engine is down on power and I need to pull the plugs to see if I'm getting a good burn on all pistons, and it wouldn't hurt to do a complete plug/wire change anyway. I just bought the boat 2 months ago, and while I had them put new risers/manifolds on before I took delivery, I didn't think to have them do a tune-up as well. I just didn't expect it to be this hard to do, and figured I would give them a good going over myself.

The wire to #8 is pinched between the block and the riser (sloppy install during the manifold change, obviously), and I tried replacing it (hoping that my power issue was a misfire/dead cylinder due to the wire), but that doesn't seem to be the problem, so I need to move on to stage 2.

BTW, before anyone suggests I have the guys who changed the risers work on it, they are in NJ, and I'm in VA. My marina is too small to have a serious mechanic, and the only good engine guy I know of in the area is backed up for almost 2 months. It's knuckle busting time, once again.

just looking at the pic of your engine, can you remove the alternator and water hoses on the left side to get to the plugs and wires from in front of the engine or maybe even come from underneath it to get to the plugs and wires?

cliff

 

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just looking at the pic of your engine, can you remove the alternator and water hoses on the left side to get to the plugs and wires from in front of the engine or maybe even come from underneath it to get to the plugs and wires?

cliff

That might be an option, but from what I saw it looked like I might not end up with enough access to get to the rear plugs. Either way I end up going, it's going to be a heck of a lot more work than I planned on. Pretty good definition for a boat, right there.

 

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I finally got a decent shot of the problem. In this picture, the power steering pump sits almost directly in front of the exhaust manifold, and the fuel filter & bracket is below that. It's not perfectly clear here, but I think you can see that even if I remove the batteries, I only have about an inch of clearance between the hull and the manifold, and I don't believe that removing the fuel filter will give me enough room to get my arm back in there.

I would love to hear that there's a different way to get this done, but I still think the exhaust manifold and riser will have to come off. Sea-Ray really designed this install down to the last millimeter. There is no wiggle room at all.