A piece of crap is a piece of crap (frustrated with my windlass)

Presentation

Presentation

Well-Known Member
TECHNICAL Contributor
Oct 3, 2006
4,404
Wisconsin - Winnebago Pool chain of lakes
Boat Info
280 Sundancer, Westerbeke MPV generator
Engines
twin 5.0's w/BIII drives
I have a Lofrans Marlin Low-Profile Vertical Electric Windlass 12VDC LW6903LP

It’s a piece of crap.

If it was not bolted down to the deck I would have tossed the stupid piece of crap in the drink today.

One time the line tangles. The next time the chain tangles. The next time the gipsy slips and I need to tighten the cap. Then the gipsy just spins as the splice between the rope / chain simply does not get past the gipsy.

I have taken it apart and sprayed it well with WD-40. I cleaned it.

I talked to a chap at Imtra who convinced me to spend some money for a new finger spring. I put the spring in today. It makes no difference.

I need to be out on the bow to take the anchor back up to give additional pressure to the finger or the rope / chain splice will not go thru.

Then it hit me. It’s a piece of crap and there is nothing I can do to make it work because it’s a piece of crap and no matter what you do, crap is crap.

There, I feel better now.
 
Is the finger spring bolt bent slightly? If so - it causes all kinds of problems.
 
skolbe said:
Is the finger spring bolt bent slightly? If so - it causes all kinds of problems.
Click to expand...

Thank you for trying to help my friend. As you can tell, I’m frustrated. I do appreciate your help.

If the finger bold is bent it’s not obvious to me but I can remove it and bring it into the cabin and roll it on the table to see if it rolls straight. I’ll give that a try.
 
I've found that the finger spring bolt seems to always be "bent" slightly and have replaced the entire thing twice (once at Lofrans expense). I guess that there are better windlass's out there????
 
Doug,

I did the new finger last year and it improved things for us.

The rode gets kinked because it has been spun too many times. The slipping at the finger may also be because the taper splice has become worn. Here is something that you can do to recondition the rode:

If you can do a tapered splice, take the rode and chain off the boat. Cut the rode at the splice. Melt the end of the line where you just cut. Throw the thing in a homer bucket with water and a good shot of bleach, let sit for a day. Then throw it in the washer with detergent and fabric softener. When done, do not put in the clothes dryer. Let it air dry. Now it will be soft and plyable. The end you cut will now be the bitter end. Do the taper splice onto the chain and re-assemble. If you don't have a swivel between the anchor and the chain you should get one.

If you have access to a spot where the depth is greater than the length of the rode, lower the anchor all the way out (don't forget to re-secure rode to locker bottom) and let it hang. This will let it spin out some of the kinks.

Henry
 
OK, I’m sitting here in front of the computer, not on the boat and wondering.

I’m asking if I am properly tightening the finger nut.

Holding the finger out from the gypsy I tighten the nut until the finger does not slide back to the rode / gypsy on its own.

Next I loosen the nut until the finger slaps back to the rode / gypsy.

Now I’m wondering if this it too tight.

I’m afraid if I loosen the nut more it will work its way off over time.

How do you tighten the finger spring nut?

By the way, I have the owner’s manual for the windlass and it give no information about this topic. Useless piece of crap.
 
Henry Boyd said:
Doug,

I did the new finger last year and it improved things for us.

The rode gets kinked because it has been spun too many times. The slipping at the finger may also be because the taper splice has become worn. Here is something that you can do to recondition the rode:

If you can do a tapered splice, take the rode and chain off the boat. Cut the rode at the splice. Melt the end of the line where you just cut. Throw the thing in a homer bucket with water and a good shot of bleach, let sit for a day. Then throw it in the washer with detergent and fabric softener. When done, do not put in the clothes dryer. Let it air dry. Now it will be soft and plyable. The end you cut will now be the bitter end. Do the taper splice onto the chain and re-assemble. If you don't have a swivel between the anchor and the chain you should get one.

If you have access to a spot where the depth is greater than the length of the rode, lower the anchor all the way out (don't forget to re-secure rode to locker bottom) and let it hang. This will let it spin out some of the kinks.

Henry
Click to expand...


Hi Henry,

Thank you for your suggestions.

I do have a swivel where the chain meets the anchor.

I think part of the issue with the tangling of the chain was I was doing this in my slip, not anchoring like I normally do with the anchor dropping then me backing away.

The retrieval of the anchor has been my primary issue. The big problem spot is where the rope and chain meet.

I agree that I should re-do that splice but I don’t know how. I went to west marine and they don’t know how either.

I really thought a new finger spring + WD40 on the finger’s mechanical parts was going to fix it. I was wrong. My issue remains.

I may do some googleing and read about this and try to redo the splice. The worst thing is I’ll need to go buy a new pre-spliced anchor / rope rode. That or I may just go to an all chain rode but shorten it up.
 
Henry got it right. tired rode just will not work. If it slips long enough it will wear out the head. I find i am changing out rope after 2 seasons. I splice it myself and do not have any problems. For this model everything has to be in order or it just will not work properly
 
My dad hates his on his 290 Amberjack as well - same model as yours. Misery loves company. He is having similar issues. The smaller one on my 260 was pretty reliable. The one on my 320 is a different model. But so far has been a good windlass - knock on wood...
 
The one on my 250 never worked. I had to stand on the bow and retract the rode while pressing my toe against the swing arm.

The one on my 340 has worked perfectly every time (knock on wood), except last Sunday. It twisted a little at the transition. I had to lower it back out a foot or so (from the helm), and then retract it the rest of the way. I went slower and it worked well.

I always wondered if the rode on my 250 was too small of diameter.
 
Presentation said:
I have a Lofrans Marlin Low-Profile Vertical Electric Windlass 12VDC LW6903LP

It’s a piece of crap.

If it was not bolted down to the deck I would have tossed the stupid piece of crap in the drink today.

One time the line tangles. The next time the chain tangles. The next time the gipsy slips and I need to tighten the cap. Then the gipsy just spins as the splice between the rope / chain simply does not get past the gipsy.

I have taken it apart and sprayed it well with WD-40. I cleaned it.

I talked to a chap at Imtra who convinced me to spend some money for a new finger spring. I put the spring in today. It makes no difference.

I need to be out on the bow to take the anchor back up to give additional pressure to the finger or the rope / chain splice will not go thru.

Then it hit me. It’s a piece of crap and there is nothing I can do to make it work because it’s a piece of crap and no matter what you do, crap is crap.

There, I feel better now.
Click to expand...


I was reading your post thinking..Poor soul...Then, I looked at my option list...It's me too!
I haven't had much problem with mine yet, but I've only used it a couple of times. I had a 220 DA with a manual feed (Me) and almost anything is better than that. Even if it was a 3,223.00 option.:lol:
 
My experience matches with FireIsland1's comments. Everything has to be right. My 12 year old Lofrans Progress 1 had a lot of use and began doing all the bad things Presentation describes, and several times I was sure I had it fixed, only to have it fail again. Eventually, it took a new rode, a new finger, finger bolt and spring, plus a new wheel (@$185.50 from Imtra) to bring it back. When the rode wore out, it slipped, which in turn ground the teeth off the relatively soft bronze wheel. Check your wheel: the teeth should have sharp edges and they should not be worn down to the shape of the rode.
 
Doug,

I have the instructions around here for doing a tapered splice. It is the same as doing a traditional splice except you trim a little bit off of each loose end as the splice gets made. That reduces the diameter. As soon as I fiund the directions I will post.

Henry
 
Another one: http://www.animatedknots.com/splice/index.php
The video shows a regular splice, to taper it you just stop each strand one tuck apart, instead of stopping them all at 5 tucks, one will stop at 5, the next at 6,...
I learned to splice over the winter, but it is harder than the video makes it look. But hell, if I can do it......

Also, if it makes you feel any better my windlass is a bigger piece of crap than yours :(
 
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Presentation said:
I have a Lofrans Marlin Low-Profile Vertical Electric Windlass 12VDC LW6903LP

It’s a piece of crap.

If it was not bolted down to the deck I would have tossed the stupid piece of crap in the drink today.

One time the line tangles. The next time the chain tangles. The next time the gipsy slips and I need to tighten the cap. Then the gipsy just spins as the splice between the rope / chain simply does not get past the gipsy.

I have taken it apart and sprayed it well with WD-40. I cleaned it.

I talked to a chap at Imtra who convinced me to spend some money for a new finger spring. I put the spring in today. It makes no difference.

I need to be out on the bow to take the anchor back up to give additional pressure to the finger or the rope / chain splice will not go thru.

Then it hit me. It’s a piece of crap and there is nothing I can do to make it work because it’s a piece of crap and no matter what you do, crap is crap.

There, I feel better now.
Click to expand...


Okay, now that you feel better ... consider this. I think you have multiple problems, but little to do with the windless. Nylon twist line is simply going to become stiff and prone to hockle as it ages. The rope to chain splice is not immune to stiffening. Stiff hockled nylon will not run true in a gypsy.

Then the POS factory anchor set up doesn't last long. I've never known anyone in a SR that gets much more than three years from the rig for this reason. The problem is more than likely the rode rather than the windless. If it brings in the chain Okay then the rode is the issue.

BTW the jamming of the rode is frequently due to a stack up in the chain locker that keeps new rode from getting into the locker.

To get the line into a more manageable coil, soak it with water in the locker and then feed it out on the dock and stretch it out . relive any hockles and then run it back into the locker using the windless. When you get to the last few yards inspect the line carefully looking for severe chafe, deep cuts etc. Tape the line at the beginning of the good line and cut away the line down to the splice and remove it. Once the line is near dry re-splice the end to the chain.

Make sure there is swivel between the chain and the anchor, if its rusted or binding replace it.

On the winch, make sure the clutch is tightened. The finger is principally important on the rope part of the ground tackle as it makes the rope wedge into the gypsy for a good grip. The finger doesn't do much for the chain except to give you a nice racket at night.

The finger is subject to binding if the chain or nylon is backed up and jammed in to the winch cover. When it the rode jams the bolt that fastens the finger will bend and cause it to bind in the future. Keep a few stainless bolts on board. The factory Finger, spring and threaded rod and cap not now cost over $100.00 retail, (Silly huh!). Match up the bolt at the hardware store for a buck a piece and be done with it.

From an operating perspective, when bringing in the rode, its important to make sure the line and chain are flaking flatly and low enough into the locker to prevent a winch jam. If the rig is too close to the hawse pipe you'll need to hand flake the first half of the anchor line into the back of the locker so there is room for front half to pile up safely.
 
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Get your non-smutt posting arses out of here!!!

























:grin:
 
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