97 (early) Sundancer 290DA 454ci L29 Bravo 3

I guess she runs??
She runs excellent. I posted about a couple of hiccups at first launch, but I'm sorting those out. I had fluid leaking out of a fitting and I lost power steering until I filled the pump back up. I had cut my old high pressure line and used it as a low pressure line. The fitting looked identical on the end I used, but it turns out it's about 1/8" shorter and let's fluid get by. Replaced that and all is well there.
2nd issue was it wouldn't get up on plane. I had wired the choke open temporarily and it ended up jamming the linkage. Not enough gas, no getting on plane... Easy fix.
Last one I haven't gotten into yet, but it's important. She's running hot for some reason. I'll figure it out once I look at that I'm sure... New raw water impeller, new transom assembly, new circulating pump, new full fwc kit, freshly machined block and heads. What more is there?
So far so good though.
 
The BBC motors can use two different head gaskets. One is series and the other parallel for water flow.

Is it possible you have a series-cooled block with a parallel-cooling head gasket?

That could likely cause it to overheat.
 
The BBC motors can use two different head gaskets. One is series and the other parallel for water flow.

Is it possible you have a series-cooled block with a parallel-cooling head gasket?

That could likely cause it to overheat.
I don't think so. The heads are Gen 6 L29 on an L29 block. It's pretty straight forward as far as that goes.
 
How hot did it get? They run 195 in road vehicles, the 145-160 most are used to in raw marine applications is just for salt crystallization prevention and really not ideal for the motor anyway.

I’d love to see mine run 185-190 instead of 160 but with the efi I don’t worry about carbon as much.

im pretty sure my horizon has a different bronze pump from the raw cooled engines and also an additional 11/4” thru hull pickup which are both factory. If you are trying to freshwater cool the engine and manifolds with the plastic bravo pump and transom assembly just may not provide the needed volume through the exchanger.

glad to see it’s in! Does your drive not have a tap for a prop nut zinc?
 
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How hot did it get? They run 195 in road vehicles, the 145-160 most are used to in raw marine applications is just for salt crystallization prevention and really not ideal for the motor anyway.

I’d love to see mine run 185-190 instead of 160 but with the efi I don’t worry about carbon as much.

im pretty sure my horizon has a different bronze pump from the raw cooled engines and also an additional 11/4” thru hull pickup which are both factory. If you are trying to freshwater cool the engine and manifolds with the plastic bravo pump and transom assembly just may not provide the needed volume through the exchanger.

glad to see it’s in! Does your drive not have a tap for a prop nut zinc?
She leveled off just shy of 210. I'd be ok with anything less than 200, but with the norm being around 150 from what I've been seeing I know something is not right. What you're saying about the plastic pump makes sense, but I haven't heard of it causing anyone else these kinds of issues. This is a purpose built FWC conversion system package. I would think I'd see posts about others having problems too. I have an extra through hull from my generator that's not being used. I could use that, but it's a brand new transom assembly and I really doubt that it's not able to flow enough for fresh water cooling. I won't rule anything out though. Thanks for the suggestions. I'll know more when I'm able to get the IR temp gun on her.
No threads for the prop nut zinc unfortunately. I have the Mercathode system, trim pistons and trim tab anodes. For being trailered I think I should be ok. They do have an add on prop nut anode. You think I should look into it?
 
I’m not an expert by any means, just throwing out ideas. I know my old man had a boat way back with pre alphas and a drive had crystallized salt that would make port overheat above 3200. Thinking it’s gotta be a flow restriction on raw side or a stuck stat maybe. Does your system cool the manifolds and risers too, or just the block?

if you’re trailering I wouldn’t worry about the extra anode. If it was in a wet slip I would. Even with all the anodes and a verified Mercathode system I had to replace the anodes mid way between May and December last year. Lots of dissimilar metals on the B3
 
I’m not an expert by any means, just throwing out ideas. I know my old man had a boat way back with pre alphas and a drive had crystallized salt that would make port overheat above 3200. Thinking it’s gotta be a flow restriction on raw side or a stuck stat maybe. Does your system cool the manifolds and risers too, or just the block?

if you’re trailering I wouldn’t worry about the extra anode. If it was in a wet slip I would. Even with all the anodes and a verified Mercathode system I had to replace the anodes mid way between May and December last year. Lots of dissimilar metals on the B3
I hear you and appreciate the suggestions. I'm far from an expert and can use some fresh ideas sometimes.
It could be an obstruction, but I've had every last piece off the system so I'm not sure where. I have water coming out of the outdrive while running on the flush adapter pretty decently also.
Stat is possible, but it's brand new. Probably a good idea to pull it to test it. Mine is a full system so exhaust and block are FWC.
 
Regarding cooling of the bravo III - I have a post I did on my prior boat, a Rinker 342 Fiesta Vee with Twin 6.2L MX engines and Bravo III outdrives. Here's a link you can cut and paste to see the discussion.

https://rinkerboats.vanillacommunities.com/discussion/comment/81578#Comment_81578

Bravo III's are not so good at cooling in stock configuration with just their pick up through the outdrive. The line I believe as it transitions through the transom assembly necks down from what 1" to 5/8 and then back up to 1"ish. Futher, when outdrives are installed, if you are not careful, the cooling (and oil lines) can get kinked causing leaking and/or overheating (subtle). Took me a while and some hair pulling to figure out that the marine tech on the Bravo III reinstall went to quick and kinked the coolant hose as well as didnt get the oil line seated right. But, that same tech as well as the service manager on my older Pachanga (way back) suggested adding through hull cooling lines to supplement the cooling (for the pachanga it was supplemental to Alpha Gen II drives) for the Rinker it was supplemental to 2002 Bravo III drives. My thread link above shows photos of the through hull additions to the Rinker. When my new to me 1997 Sundancer outdrive (7.4L/Bravo III) craps out, I will add the additional cooling to this boat too. Just some thoughts here to improve cooling to maximum capabilities.
 
Regarding cooling of the bravo III - I have a post I did on my prior boat, a Rinker 342 Fiesta Vee with Twin 6.2L MX engines and Bravo III outdrives. Here's a link you can cut and paste to see the discussion.

https://rinkerboats.vanillacommunities.com/discussion/comment/81578#Comment_81578

Bravo III's are not so good at cooling in stock configuration with just their pick up through the outdrive. The line I believe as it transitions through the transom assembly necks down from what 1" to 5/8 and then back up to 1"ish. Futher, when outdrives are installed, if you are not careful, the cooling (and oil lines) can get kinked causing leaking and/or overheating (subtle). Took me a while and some hair pulling to figure out that the marine tech on the Bravo III reinstall went to quick and kinked the coolant hose as well as didnt get the oil line seated right. But, that same tech as well as the service manager on my older Pachanga (way back) suggested adding through hull cooling lines to supplement the cooling (for the pachanga it was supplemental to Alpha Gen II drives) for the Rinker it was supplemental to 2002 Bravo III drives. My thread link above shows photos of the through hull additions to the Rinker. When my new to me 1997 Sundancer outdrive (7.4L/Bravo III) craps out, I will add the additional cooling to this boat too. Just some thoughts here to improve cooling to maximum capabilities.
Thank you for the suggestions and the link. I'll check it out.
 
When I restored my 69 Camaro SS396, I did a build thread start to... well, you're never really finished are you? I'm going to document some of the things I do on my new to me boat.
I picked it up a few weeks ago needing an intake manifold. The owner as well as the boatyard owner said it came in running with a leaky intake. The owner had just had enough. He spent several thousand dollars last year and called it quits. The boat yard did all the work, so I'm sure it added up. It has a new water heater, new complete Mercruiser exhaust manifolds and risers and is in overall great condition. There's a lot of little things it needs, but nothing I mind doing. It's set up for a generator, but the PO removed it after it needed work for a third time apparently. I got it cheap, so I don't think I can go wrong...

So far I've bought/replaced:

1. Venture Trailer Tri-axle with all the bells and whistles. Has a Sherpa Grunter electric winch and I added a tonge adapter for my anti-sway Fastway load leveler. I already upgraded to LED tail lights...
2. Raymarine Element 9HV Chartplotter/Fish finder w/ Navionics+
3. Intake (new rebuilt carb was included)
4. Circulating pump
5. Upgraded lighting to LEDs.
6. All new Autometer gauges. GPS speedometer etc. Gauges worked, but I wanted some updates.
7. New steering wheel.
8. New trim and Windlass switches.

9. ICOM M330G VHF

That's it for now. Here's a few pics:

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Good ole Chesapeake Cove, Bob and his son Bo, great guys. I purchased, and kept my 2001 Regal 3780 there from Commonwealth Boat Broker as a bank short sell. I think I funded Bob's retirement w/my repair invoices :)

My Clifton Strength Finders #1 strength is "Restorative", meaning I like to fix things and restore them to their original, or better, state. You obviously have this as well, I am impressed. My challenge is I get bored when I am done and need a new project.

https://www.gallup.com/cliftonstrengths/en/252137/home.aspx

James River Richmond boating bud from years ago had that exact boat with twin 4.3s.

Boat looks great!
 
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Good ole Chesapeake Cove, Bob and his son Bo, great guys. I purchased, and kept my 2001 Regal 3780 there from Commonwealth Boat Broker as a bank short sell. I think I funded Bob's retirement w/my repair invoices :)

My Clifton Strength Finders #1 strength is "Restorative", meaning I like to fix things and restore them to their original, or better, state. You obviously have this as well, I am impressed. My challenge is I get bored when I am done and need a new project.

https://www.gallup.com/cliftonstrengths/en/252137/home.aspx

James River Richmond boating bud from years ago had that exact boat with twin 4.3s.

Boat looks great!
Thanks! I would have to say that is one of my strengths as well. I love to fix and restore things. Sometimes when they weren't broken to begin with... It's easy to buy something new, but it's nice to be able to cruise in my 69 Camaro that I tightened every nut and bolt on or now sit on the boat I'm restoring. It's almost there... As with everything, it'll never truly be finished though.
Bob is a great guy. We've had a few pretty good conversations. He's done quite a bit of work to the marina over the last few years.
 
I am tuning/modifying/adding bolt ons a 2008 BMW 335i, so I know the feeling. I really wanted a muscle car like yours, but I have small garage and one would not fit. Dream car is a 69 Charger with a 440 6 pack. Maybe I will have both, one day.

Yup, I was there 2008 - 2010. I drove down recently, marina looks totally different.
 
I am tuning/modifying/adding bolt ons a 2008 BMW 335i, so I know the feeling. I really wanted a muscle car like yours, but I have small garage and one would not fit. Dream car is a 69 Charger with a 440 6 pack. Maybe I will have both, one day.

Yup, I was there 2008 - 2010. I drove down recently, marina looks totally different.
I love it. 69 Charger is a great choice, but mine would have to have a 426 Hemi ;) I had a 2010 Bimmer. Great car. My last car was an SLK350. I had a Boxster a few years back also. Germans definitely know what they're doing. Cars are my addiction I guess you could say...

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Boxster.jpg
 
Ditto, I need a bigger garage though. I live in the city (Richmond) and have a 1920s garage that barely holds the 335i. (what used to be a shed until I converted it). And yes, I love German engineering.

Ain't nothing wrong with a 426 Hemi, either ;-)
 
Installed an upgraded FMIC Intercooler this weekend...I digress, back to your thread :)
 

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Installed an upgraded FMIC Intercooler this weekend...I digress, back to your thread :)
Very nice. I hear your plight on the garage. My last house was an oversized three car. We moved to our new home built in 1730 with a small 1940s 1 1/2 car garage. My tools barely fit... I was getting ready to build a 40x50 when the lumber prices went nuts, so it's on hold for now.
 
Well, running back and forth from the garage, 50 yards behind the house, to the basement to get a tool I forgot, keeps the lbs off and the cardio up :)
 
She's definitely not the dirtiest carb I've opened up, but she sure wasn't "just rebuilt" like the previous owner claimed. The primaries squirt gas no problem, but no fuel is coming out of the secondaries. Rebuild kit will be here Tuesday...

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Carb had quite a bit of debris in it once I tore the venturis etc. down. It hadn't been rebuilt ever IMO. All the gaskets were old and stuck. All the replaceable pieces appeared to be oe. It's all clean and rebuilt now... Waiting to paint it then I'll throw it back on the boat and tune it.


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